moving from #4 to #5 vent on steam system
I have a small house. One of the small radiators, about 15 feet from the main line has a #4 adjustable vent (Vent-Rite). It does not heat very much. I removed the vent and it heats up just fine. The vent does not show signs of sticking/plugging so I am wondering of I should try going to a larger vent size (#5?)
thanks
Fritz
Comments
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I don't understand what you mean by #4 but adjustable. Does Vent-Rite have a #4?
Regardless, you could see if you can blow through it after removing it, that would tell you if it's seized up or blocked internally.NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
The vent is marked 4 on the body and has the conventional 1-9 adjustment. I assume this means that at full open (9) the vent would operate the same as a #4. Yes-the valve float rattles and air passes thru. I am guessing this has been not delivering heat for a long time.
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Are the mains insulated ?
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Thanks for the photo. That is a #1 with a bit of dirt or something. The #4 is a Maid O Mist and Gorton size, those are different companies. If the vent is letting you blow through it, it will also let air escape the radiator so there might be something else at play
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
Yes-mains are insulated as are most of the outbound pipes.
Sorry I was confusing—-I took a better look at the vent it is not well impressed but it says "NO. 1" (not #4). So in vent-rite terms this is one of their models:
chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://ventritepump.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Vent-Rite-Valve-Literature_2023.pdf
Looks like I can buy both vent-rites and hoffmans type 1A online. SO:
I think I will swap this one with a working one from another radiator just to see if the radiator heats up. If it does I will get the replacement (about 60 bucks). As I mentioned it seems to pass air but I can't be sure what happens when it gets hot—maybe something binding. Probably these are quite old.
Thanks
fritz
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It looks like the adjustment knob on the bottom of the vent is set to "1", the slowest speed. Maybe it's just the photo. Have you tried different settings?
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Bburd0 -
Yes- Setting it to 8 (wide open) does not help much.
One curious thing about the source pipe into the spud is that it has a "jog" around a beam in the basement.. (this is an old house with broad flat beams and it is not feasible to drill through). I expect this is not a proper way to install a steam radiator.
The radiator knocks, I presume because water gets trapped in the jog. I have not seen something similar to a "hammer arrestor" for steam pipes (is there one?). At any rate the radiator does not get much heat as is. Not sure if there is a larger throughput vent available and what size designator-if I remove the vent the radiator heats up just fine so I assume I need a larger throughput.
thanks
Fritz
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I think you are on the right track. Sometimes with no vent the steam will push through trapped water faster but as I think you know that doesn’t make it a good solution
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
Thanks for all the help here. I installed a 0.1285 vent last night and now the radiator is heating up about right. I assume this compensates for the combined distance and perhaps water buildup.
Longer term I should try to reroute the pipe to proper slope.
thanks all-fritz
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