Radiator-Baseboard-Piping Complexities
Questions for the wall….
We are in the midst of an addition over finished space and we are working to add heat. The construction contractor has a mini-split going in, but we only want to use that for cooling in the summer. The rest of our house has hot-water radiators and panel radiators, all piped with individual supply/returns. Ideally we'd like to use the existing system for heat in the new space, there is excess capacity — and the boiler usually operates in the 130-140 supply range. (For reference, the new room is 12x12 with a cathedral ceiling…~3800 btu calculation.)
We have access to similar-style radiators that are in the rest of the house, but because of the way the framing was done, there are a few key LVL beams in the way, which we are being told no holes should be drilled in those beams, which complicates running the lines for a radiator.
Multiple contractors have told us we have two options.
- First option would be to do a fair amount of more surgery on the house and open up another wall and ceiling to bypass the LVL and be able to use Iron, Copper or Heating Pex for a new radiator line down to the original cast iron lines.
- Second option would be to use an existing plumbing and electrical chase that is on the wrong side of the LVL where the heat needs to be, but poke through the wall and install 12-15' of "Low-Temperature" baseboard. Since the connections would poke through the wall and run the perimeter, the LVL would not be in the way and they'd be able to fish Heating Pex up the existing chase. There was debate if it would need to be zoned separate or just a TRV installed on the baseboard. They acknowledge the existing cast-iron would radiate for much longer, but the baseboard would be in new-construction that is heavily insulated and hold heat better than the rest of the uninsulated house, so they were more concerned with overheating during the long heat-on cycles.
The BTU heat-loss math works out for the low-temp baseboard and would be a cleaner install today. However, would we notice a difference in the heat and regret not making more of a mess today?
Any Suggestions or Thoughts?
Comments
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Pity someone didn't think of where the pipes had to go when the framing was planned… there had to be a way.
However, you run what you brung, and in this situation I'd go with the "low temperature" baseboard. Yes, it will respond differently. It will heat faster and cool down faster. The low temperature part simply means that for a given length and water temperature, it should put out more heat than regular baseboard — and either it or regular would respond faster.
But… it will respond faster, but does that have to be a problem? No, it doesn't. Set up your boiler, if you can, to provide just hot enough water so that the whole house is circulating all the time, rather than on/off. You don't mention what the boiler is, but if it's a mod/con with outdoor reset, that's just a matter of changing the curve. If it isn't, then I'd seriously consider piping the new baseboard as a seconday loop off the main system, with it's own pump — and a mixing valve recycling some of the return to lower the temperature, ideally with that mixing valve on an outdoor reset. Then leave the baseboard running all the time (or most of it anyway) with the boiler responding to its aquastat as it normally does to give the whole thing a shot of heat when needed.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
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Thanks @Jamie Hall - we were looking at some piping modifications around the boiler to achieve some of those suggestions too. Insisting they run the pex lines back to the boiler vs tying in with the rest of the radiators sounds like a reasonable request then to future proof our options if we go with the baseboard.
Thanks @hot_rod - I think we were advised to not drill the one LVL since it is rear-beam supporting the floor joists for a cantilevered section.
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