Honeywell Aquastat L8148E1166
Hey everyone,
New Poster here. I've been having an issue with my boiler. Seems the aquastat does not trigger the boiler to fire every so often. After looking at it the first time I noticed the issue (house got rather chilly though the thermostat was calling for heat), I went down and pulled the cover off the Hydrostat and honestly just wiggled a couple wires. I found the issue to be the connection at B1 (blue wire circled in the photo below). Anytime the furnace doesn't fire, if I push on the wire, the damper/vent to the chimney will cycle open and allow the burner to fire. Is there a means to repair this issue, or is it best to replace? I am quite handy and I'm not afraid to DIY a job if it is DIY friendly.
Comments
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It looks like it’s on a male spade terminal. Just pull it off and slightly tighten the female part by using a pair of pliers to press down on the metal loops.
If you can’t get it that way, just cut it off and crimp on a new female disconnect (proper name) terminal.
Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
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I agree with @Ironman. It could also be a loose solder joint on the foil side of the circuit board. If so, it can be re-soldered, but be careful if you remove the circuit board. There are low voltage (24Vac) and high voltage (120Vac) which should be isolated, usually with fish paper insulation board. DO NOT let the immersion bulb or low voltage touch the high voltage source when re-assembling.
I would also check the relay solder joints for cracks in the solder, too. Or, if Ironman's solution doesn't work you can buy a new aquastat.
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The damper should open before B1 is even involved.
Do you notice if the circulator is running when it happens? If the circulatoris not running, then check voltage across Tv and T. It should read 0 volts if there is a heat call.
The harness for the damper is right there. Any movement at the aquastat could "accidentally" complete the circuit. Only when the damper is fully open should there be 24 volts at B1.
Shut off the power and check/tighten all connections, including Grounds.
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Hello DavidtheDIYHomeowner,
I agree with above and would like to add this:
It could also be the crimp of the the female spade or FASTON connector where the Blue wire is terminated. Crimps are notoriously done poorly.
Also even though the corner of the board is the sensitive spot the solder joints at the relay commonly fail and the board flexes easily. The solder joints at the relay can be improved by removing the old solder bend the relay pin up and add a bare thin wire (like thermostat wire) wrapped around the relay pin and both ends returned to the foil of the circuit board then solder the whole joint.
A Pro would just change the Aquastat, a quick repair and move on. If you are willing to do a repair and can remove the circuit board, repair, and reinstall the board safely and competently, it is not a hard or expensive repair. If your soldering skills are questionable and the board is the issue a new Aquastat may be a better choice, depending on your heat needs. You could replace the Aquastat and at your leisure repair the old unit and then have a spare.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
You are absolutely correct. It is not the blue wire I thought it was, it is the larger wire harness that plugs in right next to it.
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L8148E 1265 is the replacement control. the 1166 just means that is was special built for a boiler manufacturer. That way folks that are not in the know will pay extra for the one the manufacturer sells for a lot more $$$
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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" it is the larger wire harness that plugs in right next to it. " Probably the solder joints where the connector pins are soldered to the circuit board. If you decide to repair the Aquastat inspect and repair all questionable solder joints when it is apart.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
Not a fan of asking a DIY to perform electronic soldering on a safety device. If you have one obvious defect then maybe you can fix that. But when you start to recommend multiple solder joints in close quarters, I vote for a replacement control.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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https://www.supplyhouse.com/Hydrolevel-48-3200-Model-3200-Plus-Fuel-Smart-Hydrostat-for-Gas-Boilers-Temperature-Limit-LWCO-Boiler-Reset-Control?_br_psugg_q=hydrostat is the electronic varsion of that control. It has the 6 pin plug for the automatic vent damper and the additional LWCO feature if you want to purchase and change the well adaptor. that involves getting wet or draining the boiler.
OR
You can just install the control in your existing well adaptor and not use the LWCO feature. and it actually costs less that the L8148E.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Just giving options and information, if they choose to call a Pro to change out the Aquastat I do not have a problem with that. For all I know they may have been soldering for 40 years, a Ham license and successfully built 20 Heathkits OR have no clue what a soldering iron even is.
" If you are willing to do a repair and can remove the circuit board, repair, and reinstall the board safely and competently, it is not a hard or expensive repair. "
Sadly I have watched a Youtube video where a seasoned Pro did not even recognize the classic symptoms of failing solder joints in an Aquastat. Just because someone is getting paid (a Pro) does not guarantee competence, Steam boiler installs are a good example.
BTW in the world of electronic soldering Aquastat boards are huge. Some electronic soldering you literally need a microscope.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
If you are not comfortable with attempting to solder the circuit board on the aquastat and choose to replace it this aquastat is your best option. The L8148E is notorious for that same exact problem that you are experiencing. I've replaced so many of them for the same reason. The Hydrolevel 3200 is a much more reliable aquastat.
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DIY does not always equate to incompetent. I work in a major industrial shipyard building Nuclear Submarines for the Navy. DIY simply means, doing the work myself and saving a few hundred bucks instead of paying someone. I know my comfort level with doing various tasks, and I know when to contact the trade professionals.
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So how are you going to repair this? Are you going to fix the failed solder connection on the printed circuit board or install the Hydrolevel 3200? The Hydrolevel aquastat is an upgrade from the L8148E.
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I'm doing some research on that hydrostat. It's highly likely that will be my option, as it is several hundred dollars cheaper than the one currently on my system to replace, and bonus that it is locally manufactured- I live 10 minutes from the Hydrolevel Company (American Made, American jobs matters to me).
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The assumption that you don't own or are not experienced with a soldering gun does not equate to thinking your incompetent. But building submarines doesn't necessarily mean you can solder either. He's just trying to help. We're also just assuming it's in the board. Do you have the jumper to bypass the damper? It's probably in the manilla envelope with the manual.
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You can go on Youtube for electronic soldering techniques. I use a rosin core lead solder that is very thin.
The problem is the government requirement for lead free solder in manufacturing. Those joints seem to fail with the lead free solder.
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I do not. Bought the house 6 years ago and was definitely not provided that as the system existed before the previous owner bought the house.
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I think those Aquastats were failing even before the lead-free RoHS solder, but maybe they lasted longer. Just kind of a poor design, although, in general, solder joints to relays seem to fail at a higher rate.
HVACNUT doesn't the jumper not work any more once the Aquastat is connected to a damper, intentionally blowing the fuse ? I know you can move the jumper to a different position in the connector.
If its is the solder joints the jumper may not help anyways.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System2 -
Once you connect a vent damper to a L8148E control (or any other control with that 6 pin plug), the jumper will no longer work because the vent damper causes a fuse to burn out as a result of the vent damper operation. This is a safety feature built into the control so someone without the proper knowledge inadvertently uses the jumper to get temporary heat while leaving the damper in the closed position on the boiler.
It is why they use a 6 pin plug on the control and a 4 pin plug on the damper. Eny control that has that 6 pin plug for a vent damper will have that fused jumper circuit designed into the control.
See note 3 on the L8148E diagram.
The fact that you work for the Navy explains a lot….At least you didn't say you work on Air Force aircraft….
I'm still not comfortable with soldering that 6 pin plug to a circuit board. I would feel better with the HydroStat 3200.
Just the opinion of an old fart that did this stuff for over 40 years, but what do I know about "Nuclear Rocket Surgery"
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Why would you put the jumper in if the damper is closed? There's easier ways out.
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DIY replacing the Aquastat and removing the jumper and connecting the damper blows the fuse and most folks are totally unaware that the fuse blew and even that it is there.
Then if the heat goes out and the damper wires seem to be the issue they may try the jumper (BTW which won't work since the fuse is open).
Some folks may not know any better and they just want to get the heat back on (tunnel vision) so they would try reinstalling the jumper and may not open the damper, if the jumper worked, oh that worked and walk away. The fuse thing is a safety interlock. You can replace the fuse too, but if you are that far into it you probably should just re-solder the failed solder joints.
Theoretically the easy way out is to call a Pro, it will just cost more and is better than CO poisoning.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
Theoretically the easy way out is to call a Pro,
And therein lies the fundamental problem. The chances of a "pro" finding the issue in an electrical control are just about nil.
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WoW, sounds like someone had some bad experiences. However in this case DavidtheDIYHomeowner could point to 'that box' and say replace it and the system most likely would work correctly again. Electrical and logic is problematic for many and then to troubleshoot it also…
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
There is no "wow" about it. If you are paying attention, the capability of the average employee of a large HVAC outfit is just about NIL.
I don't have any "bad experiences" other than requesting a fuel oil company to actually "CLEAN' a furnace or a boiler. That has NEVER occurred in 25 years. The furnaces are especially problematical as they are far more difficult to clean properly…………so, it is NOT DONE! Now, I resort to doing it myself!
So, you want the homeowner to dictate to the "contractor" exactly what should be done? Good luck with that!
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Why would you put the jumper in if the damper is closed? There's easier ways out.
I wouldn't do that. I know better. But there are those that would try to do it when they have no heat on a cold December night after Ebenezer Scrooge told them that he could not fix their heater until after Christmas.
That's why there is that stupid proof circuit built in.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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