How long should a 275 gallon oil storage tank last?
I have an older 275 gallon oil tank in basement that could be 50 years old and no signs of any leaks. It has a bottom spout on tank that connects to line to burner and the tank is slightly pitched towards the spout when I put a level on it
The metal plate on top says: "Underwriters Laboratories, Inc" "Inside Oil Tank" "Metal No Gage no F?" I think
Regards,
RTW
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For what it's worth, we have two 275 gallon basement oil tanks. We just got new ones about 2 years ago on the advice of our oil company. The old tanks were not leaking yet, but based on their markings, they were about 60 years old when we replaced them. So it's entirely possible that you could get 10+ more years out of your 50 year old tanks.
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I will add that now is a good time to start thinking about what you want to do when the tank does start leaking. I had been thinking about converting the oil burners in our boilers to natural gas for $$ savings. Obviously, the potential savings depends on the relative prices of the two fuels. Some people near natural gas fields in, say, Pennsylvania can get ridiculously cheap natural gas. Here in the Boston area, it's more expensive, but it would still be less costly than burning oil.
As it turned out, I couldn't find any local heating companies who would do the conversion, despite the fact that it's a relatively simple process. But other people on this site have done it, easily, with good results.
If we had been able to convert to gas, the time to do it would have been when we replaced the tanks. Because the tanks cost us more than the list price of an entirely new boiler (we're not allowed to say exact $ figures on this site).
Another option is heat pumps, which are getting more and more efficient.
So if you think you'd like to continue with oil heat, fine. But if not, make a plan now and be ready to pull the trigger if/when your oil tank starts leaking.
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It is impossible to say how long a tank will last unless it is now leaking. My tank, in a dry basement lasted 44 years. My daughter, who lives in same neighborhood, is having her tank replaced next week. It is 43 years old and moist on bottom. There are ways to check the thickness of the metal, but if the tank should have a major failure, the cost of cleanup will require a second mortage. Why risk ?
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@RTW The good news is that oil tanks seldom just start gushing oil. They usually start to seep a little bit. Just check the bottom of the tank a couple of times a year. Your bound to have a little surface rust which is no big deal.
How old is the house?
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Ah… if you have a regular contract — automatic delivery or something of the sort — with a good oil company, they very often have a service to do an ultrasound test on the tank, which will give you — and them (they are no more interested in a leak than you are) — a good indication of the condition of the thank. It's worth doing.
If you are buying spot cash delivery, it's going to cost you…
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
Anecdotal:
A 275 horizontal tank in the basement lasted 36 years and developed a drip from the bottom. Lost an estimated 5 gallons to the floor before I discovered it.😖
I have two 275 verticals in another location that are an estimated 55 years of age.
Also anecdotal:
The horizontals have a single feed to one of the tanks (the one that failed) and a crossover.
The verticals at the other location fill independently.
I ponder the higher pressure in the first horizontal during a fill a 60 GPM during the crossover. I have now resorted to requesting a slow fill from 200-300 (my typical ordering quantity).
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Bottom feed with a 1/4" pitch to the bottom tap and if the tank is sitting in a dry area , I would not worry about it ….
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I will keep an eye on the tank, but not a hint of any leaks at the moment. Interesting comment above on ultrasound and will inquire with my first rate oil delivery company that I use regularly - no bottom basement oil delivery
Regards,
RTW
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If I had multiple tanks I would have multiple fills. No crossover fill for me. It subjects the first tank filled to too much pressure.
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This is what we have. Two tanks, two fill pipes.
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Water is the problem …. The layer between the trapped water and oil in a system breeds a bug . It's poop is the sludge stuff …. The bug eats the oil but can not digest the sulfur in the oil . The sludge is sulfur acid …. 1/4" pitched to a bottom drain . A set of 13" and 12" legs give you the pitch and high enough to add a down hill filter , for service… Good for thought :)
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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I couldn't find any local heating companies who would do the conversion, despite the fact that it's a relatively simple process.
One thing I've learned in life is that nothing is simple. There is a reason they do not do it. Getting a feed into the street gas supply is probably a legal and logistical nightmare. And it's a major construction project to dig up your road, yard, driveway, foundation, and walls to run the gas lines. Similar sewer line repair is less complex, and can cost $30k. Then you need to run the gas lines inside the house. Walls, floors, ceilings need to be gutted possible. I'd wild guess a gas conversion seems like a $50k to $100k project to convert to gas, which is why millions of homes still run oil, I am guessing.
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I replaced my tank this Spring. During a scheduled annual furnace tune-up I asked the tech about the age of oil tanks and the recommended upgrade age. He looked at the 275 gallon tank info on the tank label and discovered that it was 53 years old. The company recommended a change out after 30 years……probably real comservative…..but the cost of remediation for a leaking tank would be alot more. I got a double walled 265 gallon tank installed for $,$$$. That included the new tank, transferring the 200 + gallons from the old to the new tank, disposing of the old tank and upgrading the plumbing to the self priming device and confirming proper furnace operation. That included extending the fill and vent ports to the outside of the building for easier access.
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I work for oil tank company 16+ Years. Put some aluminum trays under the tank.its going to leak after delivery 95% of the time. No point changing it if it's not leaking. It might be 10 gauge tank. Next tank buy a roth with a tiger loop n it will out live u so doesn't matter after that. Don't use sludge treatment
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We already have gas piped into the basement for our water heater, and I found a local heating contractor who said he had done the conversion in his own home and it was relatively simple. Unfortunately we weren't regular customers and he was too busy taking care of them to do our conversion.
If you already have a gas line in the basement, it is not that hard to do.
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Why do you say not to use sludge treatment in a Roth tank? Roth told me it was OK to use.
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My oil company has "slow fill" on the ticket when oil is delivered. Not sure why or what it means?
Regards,
RTW
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All good comments which I agree with and have experienced. I ran a heating oil biz for 34 years, and owned 15 tanks in my own buildings. Having seen and cleaned dozens of spills from leaking tanks I've seen a lot of ugly messes. Motivated by that I changed my own tanks out the first opportunity. Swapping it out before it leaks is multitude less money and stress before it leaks then after.
I know someone recently had a tank leak, currently has a temporary tank outside, a stinky basement, action pending by the environment agency with jurisdiction, and I can only guess the bill so far. My guess is at least 10 grand as it was a difficult site.
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FROM Oiltankguy220 " It might be 10 gauge tank"
Do they still make 10 gauge oil storage tanks ( as you suggest I may have) that seemingly last forever if installed properly, followed by using quality oil from respected oil delivery companies along with annual filter maintenance?
Seems newer items these days last a fraction of the time of older made it American products
Regards,
RTW
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Hello, Thai question is for oil tank guy220 11/28/24
Please explain what the tiger loop is in the Roth tank. Why do you say not to use a sludge treatment ? Is this treatment designed to dissolve & remove the sludge ? Or is the purpose of the treatment to kill the bugs that can't digest the sulfur resulting in sulfuric acid ? Thank You.
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The old-type steel oil tanks corrode from the inside out. Invariably water finds its way in, usually via condensation. At the interface of the oil and water, a microbe colony can establish itself; they feed on the hydrocarbons and get their oxygen for metabolism from the water. As the microbes die off, they settle to the bottom and form an acidic sludge, which attacks the steel from the inside. Usually, leaks show up as "wet spots," but occasionally a tank "lets go" and you have a real environmental catastrophe on hand. I wouldn't recommend waiting for that to happen. Also, the sludge doesn't work wonders for the burner, and if equipped with the old-type cartridge filter, inevitably finds its way to the fuel unit. Have your contractor install a Roth double-wall tank, along with a de-aerator and flex hoses to the burner (cuts down on labor when servicing the boiler by allowing the burner door to swing open without disconnecting/reconnecting the fuel piping). Also, the fuel filter assembly should be changed to the much more effective spin-on type filter. Hope this helps…
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QUOTE above: by outercapeoilguy
"The old-type steel oil tanks corrode from the inside out…."
I got it, but dont all 275 gal in -basement oil tanks do that? If I have a 10 gauge indoor oil tank that 50 years old properly maintained , pitched towards spout, with quality oil delivery and annual service of fuel filter or twice a year with no sign of concern mean I'm doomed? I doubt a new tank could hold a candle to that time-line of longevity
The oil company I use never suggested any treatment and will ask for an inspection. I appreciate the reponses
Regards,
RTW
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P.S to outercapeoilguy : If your experience is around a coastal salt air environment, that may play a role in your opinion of tank longevity, and may not be applicable to those more inland - as a sailor Im well aware of damaging salt air is why I mention it
Many Thanks
RTW
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