Boiler relay help
need some help.fighting a boiler pump. Have a honeywell r19a relay to a honeywell t8400c dig thermastat has been working ok but can turn it up or down and does not make relay close.i can manually close contacts and pump works bg100.how do I test. And how to jump relay to test it.on my dayton 2 wire relay i just jump the 2 therm wires and relay fires.but not shure o the 3 wire r19a. Have white red blue wires to therm. Also where do I find a r19a relay for a spair.also need a dayton 2e143 relay cant find it also .thanks also are the r19a dpst relays
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R19 is a three-wire thermostat control. Those relays are no longer made. I would replace it with a RA89A Honeywell relay.
But if you connect two wires from your thermostat R on the thermostat to R on the relay and W on the thermostat to W on the relay it should work. Don't connect anything to Blue on the relay.
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Did you look at pictures its been running like this for 2 years.if the blues hooked up at relay and not at thermostat hurt telay.if I take a jumper wire on relay to w and r should it fire
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Trying to determine if I have a bad relay or thermostat
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Starting a page 9 it has an explanation that includes the R19a relay.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
If you have 120 volt power into the relay and with the thermostat wires disconnected jump "W" & "R". The relay should pull in if it doesn't it's bad.
When it pulls in the relay contacts should close and whatever is connected to the relay contacts should start
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On the r19a relay does enyone stock parts to rebuild them.what about sig Harvey people.
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You're talking a relay that is probably over 60 or 70 years old. No one will have parts to rebuild it. Just buy a new relay.
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Sid Harvey's isn't open to the public. Get a Taco SR501 and be done with it.
Can you show the thermostat and the wiring at the sub base? I'd be shocked if it's still Series 20.
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Help please..ok guys just changed the r19a relay I pulled tt wires and tryed to jump to w&r didnot fire..so just changed it to a new ra89a honeywell w&r wires to the 2 t screens and wire nuted b wire .nothing.but it will fire when I jump the 2. Tt screws now what.
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Also whats the trick to separate my honeywell thermastat.
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Ok changed thermastat to a new one..has 3 wires ones re not hooked up.one wire on w white one wire on r. Green wire. On relay have white on one t. And green on one t.still not working .
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Therm has a auto fan and on.with a boiler relay what should it be set on.......auto or on
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since you have the thermostat off the base — or did — what happens when you jump between R and W on the base?
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Hello karter,
It looks like you have the White connected at both ends, which is OK, and the Green connected at one end and the Red connected at the other end, that seems non-functional. I would abandon the Green at both ends.
So at the thermostat;
The Red wire goes to the R terminal.
The White wire goes to the W terminal.
At the the RA89A the Red wire goes to one T terminal and the White wire goes to the other T terminal.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System2 -
This relay is kicky butt..if I jump the tt on relay it pulls pump in. On thermostat shows 20v on w and r .jumped with short wire with clips does not pull relay in why .
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Getting cold.may have to jump relay at night for heat
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You jump it at the relay and it works. You jump it at the other end of the same wires and it doesn't. Either they aren't really the same wires — or one or the other of them is broken or has a bad connection.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
Hello karter,
Did you read this that was posted above ????
It looks like you have the White connected at both ends, which is OK, and the Green connected at one end and the Red connected at the other end, that seems non-functional. I would abandon the Green at both ends.
So at the thermostat;
The Red wire goes to the R terminal.
The White wire goes to the W terminal.
At the the RA89A the Red wire goes to one T terminal and the White wire goes to the other T terminal.
The 20 Volts you are seeing may just be from the Capacitive reactance of the parallel wires and is deceiving you, you need real copper wire continuity.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
Have moved red and green both no dif.
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If there is no other devices in-between the thermostat and the RA89A relay, the Voltage across T-T terminals (RA89A relay) and R-W terminals (the thermostat) should be exactly the same, 24 VAC (or a bit greater) with no call for heat, 0 VAC during a call for heat. Jumping the T-T or the R-W should do the same thing, start the boiler.
If not you may have a broken or disconnected wire.
Since you say you used the Green or the Red with the same negative result maybe the White wire is defective and that may have been the original problem.
Or possibly your thermostat is defective.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
OK. You have three wires at the thermostat, and I can't really make out what is at the relay. However. Here are some steps to try.
- Jumper between T and T at the relay. You say the relay kicks in. Good. It should.
- connect all three wires together at the thermostat. If the relay kicks in, go to 3. If not, go to step 6
- disconnect one of the three wires — doesn't matter which, but let's call it wire A — and leave the other two connected. If the relay kicks in, stop. Connect those two to R and W at the thermostat. It doesn't matter what colour they are. Otherwise…
- disconnect one of the two wires you connected in step 3 and connect it to the wire A, the wire you disconnected in step 3. If the relay kicks in, stop. Connect those two wires to R and W at the thermostat. Otherwise…
- Take wire A and connect it to the wire which is left disconnected from step 4. If the relay kicks in, stop. Connect those two wires to R and W at the thermostat.
- At least two of three wires at the thermostat are NOT connected through from the relay to the thermostat. You will either need to trace the cable through, end to end, to find the disconnection and repair it. Alternatively, run a new cable (at least three wires) and connect it preferably using the colour code.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
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Do I need 3wire or just 2. White and red dont need green wire.
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You only need two wires. The colours are irrelevant, but they need to be two continuous wires. Have you done the steps I laid out for you? If not, why not?
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Two wires. However if one of the two is proven defective the third wire (since it is already there) could be use as a substitute in this case (the wire color is only a reference to make it easier). All the wires do is bring the T-T terminals of the relay to a remote location in the living space where the thermostat is. So two T-T terminals (T and T), two wires, then the two wires are connected to the R and W on the thermostat. When the thermostat calls for heat, a switch inside it connects R to W, like a little automatic jumper.
That is kind of why they standardized it decades ago, the Red wire goes to the R thermostat terminal the White wire goes to the W thermostat terminal. Often the heating equipment had R and W terminals also, so you just matched it up at both ends, easy. In your case you have additional control equipment so the terminals are labeled differently.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
Green is only used if one of the other wires is defective.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
If you think of the wires as red green and white, that will confuse you.
Think of the wires as A B and C. because the wires are colorblind.
the colors are there for humans to know which wire is which at the other end. The colors are not there for the electricity to decide which color route to take. The electriciy can't see the colors. It ain't that smart!
follow the directions that @Jamie Hall gave you .
Jumper between T and T at the relay. You say the relay kicks in. Good. It should.
connect all three wires together at the thermostat. If the relay kicks in, go to 3.
let us know that this step worked. if it does not work, then you need to replace all of the wires in that group. see step 6.disconnect one of the three wires — doesn't matter which, but let's call it wire A — and leave the other two connected. If the relay stays kicked in,
stop
. Connect those two to R and W at the thermostat. It doesn't matter what colour they are.
At this point you are finished. You need not go any further. Let us know if this worked. If step 3 was unsuccessful, then one of the wires that is still connected together is not connected to the relay near the heater. that means that wire A is good and one of the other two (B or C) is not connected to the relay. To know which one is not connected you can connect wire A to one of the other wires. see step 4disconnect one of the two remaining wires you connected in step 3 (Call it wire B) and connect it to the wire A, the wire you disconnected in step 3. If the relay kicks in, stop. Connect those two wires to R and W at the thermostat.
At this point you are finished. You need not go any further. Let us know if this worked.Otherwise…
Take wire A and connect it to the wire which is left disconnected from step 4
(That would be wire C). If the relay kicks in, stop. Connect those two wires to R and W at the thermostat.
At this point you are finishedAt least two of three wires at the thermostat are NOT connected through from the relay to the thermostat. You will either need to trace the cable through, end to end, to find the disconnection and repair it. Alternatively, run a new cable (at least three wires) and connect it preferably using the colour code.
If none of this works, then you need to replace the wire from the thermostat to the relay. And you only need to use a two conductor wire. But I recommend that you use at least a 4 conductor wire and only use the Red and the White wire and leave the other two color wires disconnected.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Ok I'm trying to run a new wire but its a job wall has 2 wood fire stops got a hole in 1 got to get a bendable drill bit to get the other one got it jumped for tonight. Got one more ?his summer i added ball valves on both sides of the 3 pumps so I can service them easyer.i had to drain the system. There where 2 valves on top of hot side of boiler had a little handle sayed open close .I closed both of them t main hot pipes coming out of top to valves.had closed them before but this time the one valve turned a little hard did not feel right so whats inside them and can they brake something in and only open half way.seams to to be getting hot on both sides of them? Sending a pic
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Are they serviceable if so is there a way to open them without pulling top cap.had a hell of a time getting popes loose heat nothing helped dont no what they used on them fittings 1959 American standard
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Also thanks for all the help. Does not help im color blind and have to wait till my sons home.
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10-4 got pumps running what **** to run 1 wire in a wall had 2 fire stops. Old wire must be bad some where .it woul show 20v on therm but 25 at relay.bundle all 3 wires nothing at pump. Ran a 18-2 working good .now must have some air in attic have copper in ceiling and floor and basement floor 3 pumps den not getting but 75 got therm set at 86. Eny ideas on the pic of shutoff.or what's it called so I can lookup a detail print of how it works .
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post a picture
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Pic is up above of shutoff
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Hello karter,
Look up Patent 19873 (on the side of the valve) .
If you read the text behind the selector lever I believe it says "open" and "normal", open disables the valve's functionality, normal position " This prevents gaseous pressure beneath the closure plate 34 and prevents passage of warm gas from passing into the radiators. "
Since your has the selector lever I believe is is a slightly different version that is shown in the Patent drawings.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
Here is a pic of the thermostat in my back bedroom been having trouble i set it but it dont think it shuts off the relay room gets 90 deg can I wire a honywell round thermostat to the r19a relay by using only the r and w terminal .wire I think is good. Prob 1950s
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