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Question on main line vents (clogged?)

elamere
elamere Member Posts: 3

I was hoping to get a second opinion on whether a) I have diagnosed at least part of my heating issue, and b) if it is something that I could address myself—or if it is better to bring in a professional.

The Issue: Long Heating Cycles.

I am new to steam, but have tried to at least get an awareness level understanding of my 1 pipe steam system. Moving into the house, I was not sure what to expect regarding how long the boiler should run before getting heat to the radiators, but I now believe it is taking too long (~10-15min till radiators start to get warm). In looking into possible causes, I discovered that 2 main line vents (Dole 3C) seemed to be stuck closed.

I believe the vents are stuck because, there is visible rust drips, during heating they stay cool to the touch, and the radiators on this side of the building are the last to get warm.

Possible Solution: Replace both with Gorton #1s (I physically don’t think the Gorton #2s will fit without running into the floorboards). I estimate there are ~50ft of 3in mainline (~2.5CF).

Some questions:

  1. Is the process of replacing these vents as simple as carefully unscrewing these old vents and screwing on the new ones? Are there extra considerations to make this go smoothly (ie: not crack the relatively delicate looking pipe extensions)? Do I need to apply any products the threads to prevent leaks?
  2. I also discovered a new leak (~this summer) on one of the first joints near the boiler. I had thought about adding some high temp sealant to the visible threads as a possible short term solution. Is this a terrible idea? Does this need to be professionally addressed?
  3. Any other comments/suggestions on my setup? I would love to reduce my heating costs. We just had our first child and keeping the house as cold as possible and wearing a sweater is no longer a viable option for me.

I apologize if these questions are naïve or if I left out any critical information. I appreciate anyone’s help/advice.

Best,

Ed

Some Facts:

Boiler: Weil-McLain EG/PEG-40

House age: ~1930

Existing Vent: Doyle 3C

Proposed Vent: Gorton #1: 0.33 CFM @1oz

Coldest Radiators: Rad. 3, Rad 4, both also on the second floor.

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,394

    As to replacing the vents — it is just as easy as unscrewing the old ones and putting new ones in. But… first, use a backup wrench on the pipe they are mounted on. You want to unscrew the vent — not that pipe. Second, most of us use tape on the threads, but be very careful not to get it closer than two threads to the end of the pipe.

    Now. I'm concerned about the diagram. You show a light blue "U" shaped line connected to the ends of the steam mains, and then a line back to the boiler with a vent on it, and you refer to it as a "dry return". If it's connected to the steam mains, it isn't a dry return, but we'll let that go. However, what is impyortant is this: does it drop below the boiler water level BEFORE it connects the two ends of the steam mains? If it doesn't, you will get erratic and poor heating in those two problem radiators.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    bburd
  • elamere
    elamere Member Posts: 3

    Hi Jamie, thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. Apologies for using the wrong term.

    I believe that that pipe does drop below the boiler water level just before the boiler. The "U" shaped line in questions is actually in the center of the last photo (wrapped in fiberglass). I also added another image of the boiler showing how it returns below the boiler level (path marked w/ blue).

    Also shown is the water mark on the floor beneath the leak/drip from the first connection to the boiler (few drips an hour, just enough to keep the ground damp). If you had a comment on the seriousness of that issue or what the right approach would be I would be very interested.

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,394

    I think that that U shaped pipe is all above the waterline, so far as I can make out. What it, and the extensions and the final drop to the boiler, are for is to, return condensate to the boiler — which you obviously need! The problem is that there is no block for steam from the end of one of those mains getting into the end of the other — and shutting both vents before all the air has gotten out of the slow side.

    Now the air can still get out through the radiator vent, but slowly.

    There are several ways to fix the problem — which does need fixing, as far as I can make out — but much the simplest is going to take that U shaped pipe and instead of just a little drop drop it all the way to the floor with two drops, one from each end of each steam main, and then bring a pipe from the centre of it back up to the existing return line to the boiler. This will produce what is called a water seal loop and it will allow condensate to pass from either of the mains back to the boiler, but it will keep steam from passing from one steam main to the other.

    And, purely incidentally, turn that single light blue line from that pipe back to the boiler into a true dry return!

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • elamere
    elamere Member Posts: 3

    Sounds like it is time to call the professionals. Thanks for the help.