Extruded floor heat spreader plates
I'm looking to install some Wirsbo Joist Trak for a small area.
I'm curious if anybody has had experience with installing the pex pipe into these extruded tracks? How hard is to to get it in there when working overhead? Any issues with noise?
Comments
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If you're doing a little, you can pop it in with a rubber mallet. Someone does make a power setter but I never followed up on who.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
I had to look it up to realize that Wirsbo = Ubonor I guess?
I installed the Ubonor ones under a living room floor and it was very easy. The basement ceiling was rather low but it was VERY easy.
I have never heard them make a sound. I have them going through holes in the joists. Leave a little slack at the ends where the loops are—don't have anything bound up or tight and I think you'll be happy
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
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Sure thing, here's a shot of my installation. I think they transmit the heat to the floor a lot better than the sheet metal ones. They are very solid
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
The joist trak is going to be prepunched with 10 holes. Here's my tips for installing
- keep 6-12" away from the ends of the joists
- spacing from trak to trak end up to 6" apart to minimize cutting the trak, aim for cutting in half if needed
- I put one screw in the middle, then align the ends, most times, 6 screws is enough
- When installing the pex, yes a rubber mallet works but I prefer a vinyl dead blow hammer, doesn't bounce as much
The traks are very quiet, when you look at the profile, it is faceted instead of smooth, it allows the pex to expand and contract and not squeak.
Also when using joist-trak, your water temperature is much lower because of the thickness of the traks,
Dave Holdorf
Technical Training Manager - East
Taco Comfort Solutions
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I think Radiant Engineering in Bozeman still sells the palm nailer with soft tip. Depends on how muych of the extruded plates you are doing?
I think Senco has a nailer with a soft tip opption also.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
@Dave H_2 Thanks for the info. This is for an air to water heat pump setup so temperatures are very important. That is the main reason I'm looking at the extruded plates, the rest of the options are much cheaper but take a pretty big hit on COP by needing higher temperature water.
Only doing about 300sqft, as much as I like buying new tools it doesn't seem worth it. I have a nice plastic dead blow hammer, sounds like the ticket for a small install.
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Joist trak is great for getting that temp low, also remember that the batt insulation gets pushed up against the plates and pex, no air gap at all and make sure the rim joist is also insulated. Installed a project in CT with under floor plates and A2W heat pump last winter, design water temp was about 115f on a design day
Since you have 300sqft, try and find 3/8" pex and plates. Sooooooo much easier to install and work with. Its two loops no matter what.
Dave Holdorf
Technical Training Manager - East
Taco Comfort Solutions
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The tighter the tube spacing the lower the required SWT also. In some cases you can get 3 plates in a mjoist bay. The tubing becomes more complicated however, and 3/8" is a lot easier to work with as Dave mentioned. A type pex and warm the coil.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0
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