Help me swap my Gorton #1 main vent (with free used Hoffman 75) ?
60 foot main. 2. diameter. Likely Gorton #1. Once boiler starts, it takes 10 mins to heat to the end of the main. Can't recall how long it took for steam to heat the boiler riser. Friend has spare Hoffman 75 vent he gave me.
- Not sure how to cut away ceiling to access old Gorton #1
- Not sure how much I need to cut away to fit large wrench horizontally with ceiling.
- Can I hand tighten the Hoffman 75? Or does it need to be snugged down with wrench? Tight space to fit huge wrench
- What wrench do you guys use for this? Pipe wrench is too wide to access nut.
- Does Gorton #1 and Hoffman #75 have same thread size? Direct swap?
Photo of my hidden vent and friend's expose vent (before I removed it)
Comments
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re questions 1 & 2; unthread the entire riser from the tee and remove. You will then have room to remove and replace the vent before reinstalling the vent and riser.
Question 3 &4 - Use Crescent (adjustable) wrench to remove/replace vent. Use pipe sealant as well on all joint.
You may need to increase cut out in drywall for new vent. If so I find a wallboard saw works well for cutting or enlarging holes.
GreatNeck WL6C 6-Inch Wallboard Saw, Drywall and Sheetrock Tool, Keyhole Saw Blade, Sheetrock and Drywall Handsaw
https://a.co/d/39IZuwl0 -
I cut away some of the drywall but I'd need to cut away a ton more to access a wrench onto the vent.
I like the idea of just removing the entire riser but I don't think I can get it off. No leverage strength reaching overhead.
Just put a pipe wrench with cheater bar directly on riser pipe and yank hard? Risk to tearing loose the steam main?
Would you reuse the riser or just get a new one? I don't know if the vents are the same thread size.
Maybe I should call a plumber to do this.
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You're not going to tear away the main. 2" main pipe is incredibly strong. That 3/4" riser is no match for it. Put an 18" wrench or so on that riser and go wild. Just remember lefty loosy looking from the top.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el
1 -
what Paul said. This is an easy one, def
resumere-use the riser.0 -
Did you mean "Reuse" the riser?
- Detach riser
- Detach vent
- Detach adapter from riser (might need vice?)
- Go to store to buy new adapter
- Can I use Teflon tape or do I need pipe dope for reassembly?
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I use tape. You can use whichever you prefer. I think this is your adapter you need:
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
yep!
3. Pair of pipe wrenches is best
5. Teflon tape is fine
0 -
@CoachBoilermaker , changing the Gorton #1 to a Hoffman #75 will make little, if any difference. If you're going to go to all this trouble, why not just go to a Gorton #2?
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting
3 -
I got the Hoffman 75 for free. I'm not 100% sure the #2 will fit b/c there is a joist a few inches away which may block screwing in the #2. Once I install the 75, swapping to a #2 will be much easier, I think
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Open hole in drywall
Remove nipple and vent
Get street 45, 2 2 inch nipples, a union, another regular 45 and another nipple to put the vents where you want them.
Get a tee , 2 90 degree ells, and 2 3inch nipples put those at the top and install both vents.
With a union, you can assemble it on the ground, place it and just tighten the union.
;)
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
A couple elbows and nipples will fix that.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
I think there is room for a Gorton #2.
I put red lines at the stud screws on the drywall.
The ceiling has about 8-9" of clearance above it
Get a #2 Gorton?
0 -
Sure.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
1 -
In the photo is a Gorton #1.
@Steamhead says not to bother going from #1 to Hoffman 75.
Can someone tell me what adapters I'd need to install a Gorton #2?
Would I reuse the riser? Or just get new riser, adapter, and #2 ? (What are the exact sizes/threads?)
That way I don't need to mess with detaching the #1 adapter from the riser?
0 -
All you need is a 3/4"x1/2" bushing. Screw the bushing in where the #1 was and screw the #2 into the bushing. Simple.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
I had already linked you the adapter. This would go directly onto the pipe, you won't need the coupler anymore
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
Gorton #2's are much bigger than #1's make sure you have enough space to accommodate a #2.
Bob
Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
In that case see my post above.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
i believe @CoachBoilermaker needs to see pictures
Not my best rendering but I think you get the idea. 24" wrench or 18" wrench with a 3 ft piece of 1-1/2" pipe on the handle
Take that pipe nipple, coupling and vent assembly over to the workbench vise and remove that vent and replace it with the replacement vent. Then put the assembly back form whence it came.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
1 -
@EdTheHeaterMan I bought a 24" pipe wrench at HF today. If I can break it free, I'll order the #2 Gorton.
1 -
I need it spelled out, sadly.
Do I keep the existing coupler?
New #2 Vent → new 3/4 to 1/2 reducing adapter → old 3/4 coupler → old nipple pipe ?
or do I get a new coupler that fits the #2 directly ?
New #2 Vent → new 1/2" coupler → old nipple pipe ?
Gorton #1 is 3/4" ?
Gorton #2 is 1/2 ?
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-BLC075-050C-3-4-x-1-2-Black-Reducing-Coupling
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Gorton-G2-Gorton-No-2-Straight-Air-Eliminator-3524000-p
0 -
@ethicalpaul showed you the adapter to buy. Remove the coupling at the top of the nipple and replace it with his reducer. Reuse the same nipple.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.1 -
the gorton #1 has both a (edit) male 3/4 and a female 1/2 thread on the same piece, it’s very cool (they copied from Jacobus Maid O Mist I think).
Unfortunately the #2 doesn’t share the same design, it is male 1/2”
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
Just to be sure,
0:00 Boiler on
4:00 Main boiler riser to gets hot to the touch (steam being produced)
10:00 End of the main got hot
So, it really took 6 mins. for the end of main the get hot. (but 10 min from start of boiler)
Is that definitely too slow? Just want to make sure before I attempt this.
60 feel of main, 2.5" pipe diameter
0 -
This job is not a big deal. And Yes, 6 minutes is pretty darn slow.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
This.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
you also can pick up a 3/4 to 1/2 couple at your local big box store.
0 -
I don't think 6 minutes for 60 feet of 2.5 pipe (plus the header and riser to main) is very slow if the pipe isn't hot for the timing test. I thought I asked him if the pipes were hot, warm, or cold for this test in this thread or another, but I'm not sure.
@CoachBoilermaker it's up to you to decide whether to do this, but it is admittedly a rather simple and inexpensive thing to try. I've tried much crazier and more expensive things for worse reasons haha
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
I could not even get the 24" pipe wrench to grab the pipe. I would tighten the clamp, and the wrench would just slip and spin off. Tried facing the wrench both directions too. Wrench is heavy as hell to hold overhead also. Will try again tomorrow. I did not do it like the photo, I just put the wrench on the pipe straight on
0 -
Hi, When you put the wrench on the pipe, make sure there is room between the back of the jaw and the pipe. Also, you want clean, sharp teeth on the pipe wrench, so it doesn't want to slip. 🍌
Yours, Larry
1 -
I can't help you with that. Some things are just better left to the professionals
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
1 -
24" is probably bigger than I'd want to use, I like 18" but you can do it
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
Got the wrench to bite, but could not get barely any leverage while on a step stool, reaching above shoulders, and other pipes in the way of wrench handle. Or I'm just too weak. Or pipe is 100 years stuck. I guess I'll call a professional
1 -
Ok, I was able to get the nipple loose.
With the nipple removed, how do I remove the coupler? I don't have a vice. Do I try 2 wrench method?
How do I know the 3/4" x 1/2" Black Reducing Coupling will fit on my nipple? How do you guys know it's 3/4"?
I almost feel safer bringing the nipple to the plumbing store to make sure I get the right adapter.
But, I can't leave the system with an open riser while I'm at the store, even with heat turned off, right?
Tankless coil runs boiler at 4 min. clips, and nipple vent is near the boiler return end.
1 -
Given what time it is, put plenty of pipe dope on the nipple and screw it back in- but not too tight. Then turn the heat back on. Tomorrow, take it to the store to match it up.
Nipples aren't expensive- if you can't get the coupling off, just buy a new nipple.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
Be sure to verify that you'll be able to spin the nipple with the new vent attached. A Gorton is wider than a 75. If the vent won't clear the joist, offsetting it is straightforward.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
Do I even need the nipple?
What about attaching the #2 directly to the main ?
0 -
Only if you want it to fail immediately.
Got to raise the vent so it's just exposed to steam and not rusty condensate.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
Condensate isn't rusty but yeah put it on a nipple.
You can put your wrench on the floor or a workbench and hold the nipple with it while you use a big crescent wrench on the vent or like steamhead said just buy a nipple
And congratulations
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
Dunno,Paul. Seen plenty of rust streaked failed mains vents, so there's some kind of Fe+ ion in the condensate. But, yeah not FeO2
In any event, vents are designed to handle steam and air. Not water. Use a nipple.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0
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