Lochinvar / Knight Boiler 80-285 Issues
Comments
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yes what setting on the multi meter, 12VAC?
let me ask you this…if i were to start replacing parts, assuming something has failed, where would you start?i may have to try to reach out to someone locally…the only thing i am afraid of is being taken advantage of and ending up paying a ton to fix a simple issue. i am a field tech, that's my day job but i don't work on anything that doesn't use the internet and have a hard drive normally..but not a boiler tech :-P
i am trying to be informed as possible so if i do call a tech, i will half way know what i'm talking about and less chance of getting bs run around or over charged…and of course wanting an inexpensive solution being a underpaid single parent.
i will not put myself in too too much danger..
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up at the ceiling,
the big green thing is an expansion tank,
to the right of it I see a small red tee handle on an open drain, it's a 1/4 turn to full open, careful now,
just nudge it open and see if there is air there, a bucket is your friend,
and there is a picture of one end of your baseboard, are there any other fittings at the far end, an air valve or vent?
known to beat dead horses
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Here are the two ends of one of the naked baseboards in the basement
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Dirty water came out when I started opening the red t-handle
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these photos make my house look like a total dump, but it's truly not =D i promise
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This is 120 volts, ONE HUNDRED and Twenty ! not 12, be careful,
NCV is Non Contact Voltage, wave it / rub it, the black tips of the meter body are marked, along the cable into the circ, it may not read thru the metalic armor, practice on a lamp cord upstairs,
V~ is ac voltage, the meter is auto ranging, or you have that range button there,
and the A~ is for amps, slip the black forks around a single wire and if the wire is live, and the load is running, the Amps will show
known to beat dead horses1 -
dirty water is better than air
known to beat dead horses1 -
i'm not sure where i came up with 12VAC..hahah
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basements are basements,
no air vents upstairs?
there likely aren't as that system should be purge-able
known to beat dead horses0 -
i have seen mention of "purge" or "pre-purge" on the LCD screen of the boiler. it seems to say "pre-purge" when something is initializing—
no air vents upstairs…none related to heating anyway, i don't think
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purge on the boiler screen is part of the ignition / burn / shutdown sequence, not what we're looking for,
purging air from the zone loops is playing with all your valves, a hose, and forcing water where air should not be,
you need to figure why the circ(s) aren't circing,
one must be working in that your domestic hot is working,
can you post one distant picture showing the whole deal down there, floor to ceiling, left to right,
known to beat dead horses1 -
small room so I can’t zoom out too far
the upside down pics at the end are directly under the bathroom upstairs and you can see the black and white exhaust pipes headed out to the back of the house, outside of course
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" let me ask you this…if i were to start replacing parts, assuming something has failed, where would you start? "
check for 120v at the higher red circ, or from its controller(back of boiler) and the green one at the ceiilng also, if they have power, then the circ is bad, or jammed,
you mentioned the water was dirty, dirty water might have seized the circ(s),
the red one, isolate the circ with the valves above and below as you did earlier, on the end of the circ motor, that screw head, take it out, expect minor water, see if you can turn that shaft inside there to free it up or prove loose, put screw head back in.
may be able to do same on upper green circ,
if you don't have 120v at the circs, you have a controller or thermostat problem, did you check batteries at the stats?
known to beat dead horses1 -
you have no idea how valuable this info is to us. thank you so much. i was able to source some firewood and wood stove running and we are managing much better for a couple days. it doesn't warm up the whole house equally but definitely helps. . I am going to run thru the steps above and report my findings
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so it sounds like…..based on what we are looking at we either have a bad / seized circ(s) (2 red units or 1 green unit) or a thermostat(s) (i have two thermostats; one upstairs and one down) issue ….or potentially a controller board issue (not giving power to said circ(s)) does that sound accurate?
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When was the last time the boiler"s heat exchanger and sensor cleaning? Service Due is probably a reminder to do a service after a programmed length of time in the boiler's program. The time is set in the programing. Much like a maintenance reminder lite on your car's dash.
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kinda hard to do this from connecticut, without being there and touching,
my bet is on the middle(upper) red circ, which I believe is your primary circ getting heat to your zoning, either electrical or mechanical(seized/stuck), can't tell, or it could be air bound, as was mentioned earlier,
was the system noisy when it worked last? could you hear the water flowing last winter?
and what Homer says, these boilers like to be massaged every year or 2, but it's heating the domestic so hold off there, I do see your pressure up around 30, that's too high, 12-15 is a target, so once you re establish flow, follow up on the expansion tank and pressure,
known to beat dead horses1 -
i believe you are right. when comparing (listening and touching) the lower red circ compared to the upper red circ…upper is not warm and silent. lower one is warm and was making / does make noise.
i am going to go buy a new circ pump and install it…i checked the voltages at the board and everything seems to check out..all the hot terminals are getting readings…
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remember to stop back and let us know
known to beat dead horses1 -
Quick note, it may be a bad end switch on Honeywell zone valve? Not allowing a call for heat when zone valve opens via the thermostat. Just a thought.
Tim
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Any idea if the bottom pump would be a compatible replacement?
Having a second look at this it appears that the Amazon item has a standard wall outlet plug0 -
not correct pump. Still may not be problem.
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thank you tim
any easy way to test the zone valve?
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i put brand new batteries in the thermos and i did open the circ pump with a flathead just to observe a little bit of dirty water..
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i've replaced the igniter and flame sensor fairly recently. After this loss of water flow happened a few days ago removed the above mentioned units from their rubber boots to find substantial corrosion inside so i cleaned them well with wire brush and air
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I really think it’s time you get a tech in there who is familiar with Lochinvar condensing boilers. The boiler will be getting critically dirty by now if it’s been more than 2 yrs since opened up and fully cleaned out. Also at same time fix pump or zone valve problem. If you don’t do this you could possibly get to hazardous situation or at least damage boiler.
Where are you located?1 -
Anchorage, AK
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I message our mfr rep for your area and he might have a solid recommendation for servicer in Anchorage as they rep Lochinvar in Ak, Wa, Or & Idaho.
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that would be spectacular…feel free to message here, i will check this later. otherwise…my cell is
907.406.0400
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Lochinvar rep for AK recommended circle plumbing in Anchorage. Check with them on servicing for you, also ask for rates just to be informed. Rep said there quite good
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@articpenguin, what I had in mind is more than new sensors which could have been cleaned. I meant a thorough combustion chamber cleaning. I set the service lite at about 2 years in the programing. I do a thorough combustion cleaning on this boiler every 2-3 years. The dirtiest boiler that I ever cleaned was this boiler and it took me 4hrs to do the job.
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that's funny..i went to elementary school with those boys. I'll call them today. Not only that, their shop is a stone's throw away from here..i'll give them a call. ty Tim
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booked out till November 5th …😅
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my latest observation
reputable plumbing and heating companies are book til November0 -
do you have a wires diagram? can you post that picture(s)?
either from a panel cover or a manual
known to beat dead horses1 -
take a photo of the low voltage terminal board, need to find the T&T terminals for heat demand and as long as the zone valve is open, ie lever moves back and forth freely, you should have no voltage across the heat deman terminals with checking with meter.
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i believe you are talking about this?
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ok,
read across 3 and 4, DHW Thermostat, if you have 0v, tank is calling, if 24v, tank is satisfied, turn up aquastat, or jump 3 and 4, to make a call for domestic, you should get 120v at black and white DHW Pump,
same thing at 1 and 2, R and W, Room Thermostat Zone Control, if you have 24v there, the call for heat is not getting there(doubtful as the system pump has 120v), if 0v you have a heat call, and Boiler Pump should have 120v,
power down the boiler, take the black and white from the Boiler Pump terminals, power back on, and with 0v at 1 and 2 for call for heat, see is 120v returns to Boiler Pump terminals, if yes, replace that circ, if no 120v, you might have cooked its relay, and need a new integrated controller
known to beat dead horses0
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