Trying to Install Baseboard with Pipe With Pipe Reverse Return

Jamie Hall

On the lines to the radiation, you either need a zone valve or a balancing valve — but not both. Although it's helpful to have a simple ball valve on the lines to close them off if you ever need to service them.

The other zone could either have its own pump hooked in just after the expansion tank, or could have a real zone valve (controlled by a thermostat) hooked in just after the pump shown, with another single zone valve (also controlled by a thermostat) for the zone diagrammed — it would control all the radiators on its zone at once.

In either case, the returns would hook together just before they got back to the boiler in your diagram.

hot_rod

A couple ways to pipe reverse return. The dead end loop method takes more pipe, and insulation.

Generally this piping method is for large buildings with long piping runs, same sized emitters.

Basically the first radiator to be supplied is the last returned. You try to get the piping distances equal.

It may be overkill for your sized system?

Yes you could have two zone valves after the circ and build two RR loops

Screenshot 2024-08-05 at 9.00.57 PM.png

Screenshot 2024-08-05 at 9.00.43 PM.png

Steamhead

@joseluisheating , I have to agree with some others in this thread: It should not be necessary to completely replace your steam system, and doing so will cost a whole lot more than fixing what you have.

The problems you mention are leaks, uneven heating and perceived lack of efficiency. These are a lot easier to fix than some folks will tell you. Our company, as well as quite a few others on this board, does this all the time.

If you tell us where you're located, we might know someone who can look this over and perhaps save you a lot of money.

joseluisheating

Thanks for your reply @Jamie Hall, @hot_rod @Steamhead

Good afternoon guys,

I know that doing the hot water transition boiler would result more cost effective. However, I am trying to make my basement a living space. The steam pipe are obstructing the ceiling a lot, pipes are rusted and leaking for moisture, I would have to invest to redesign and balance. Base on my calculation, it would be way more cost effective doing hot water combi, pex and baseboards.

I make a diagram of how things would look. any suggestion, please commented it.

I have couple of question:

Boiler would be on the basement, the apartment in on the second floor, should make each zone-main pass through first-floor ceiling or basement ceiling with parallel pipes to the baseboards ? If yes, how to deal with less resistance path ?

If each baseboard supply and return are 3/4" at 4gpm, what sizes should be each zone-main (zone 1, zone 2) ? and what size should be the manifold of the two zones ?

Last question. Should I install a ball valve in the supply, and a balancing valve (set to 4gpm) in the return of each baseboard ? Like the picture sent by @hot_rod

I attach the diagram guys. Hope to hear from you back

Baseboardsdiagram.pdf

joseluisheating

Here is the same diagram but in picture mode.