Horizontal cast
repiping my basement I have a old cast sewer pipe that is in good condition goes out to street 20 feet. I have to drop my new line into it problem is looks like I need to push the solids towards the street and not straight down as there is a hole maybe from a vent where I will drop my new 4 inch sewer stack into maybe a long sweep 90 or cement something in see pic attached disregard the 45.. I fear waste will get hung up in that vertical hole straight below the opening
Comments
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Got enough room to put in a sanitary T instead of just a straight drop?
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
I believe that would have to be a wye if you wanted a cleanout or something else coming at it from the other direction horizontally. A tee on it's back may only be used for venting purposes.
Otherwise a 1/4 bend would be acceptable if there's nothing else there. I'm having a hard time understanding what is being asked.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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@Jamie Hall yes but I have to break out concrete between the wall and top of cap to get a good fit maybe some hydraulic cement to seal it up I cannot replace the entire line and only have so much access
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@ChrisJ I have to drop a 3 inch sewer main into this hole but since it’s a solid stack poop etc needs to be told or directed where to go I think per our code in P A I need a bend leading into the opening maybe a sweep of some sort I can put the clean out about and out of the equation here at the opening
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What is the hole? It must have a pipe in it, no?
If it's a 1/4 bend (DWV 90) then that's fine.
You need to know what you're connecting to. How were you going to connect the 3" PVC into this hole exactly?
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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If you could connect a Y to the pipe in the slab, a cleanout in the top, use the branch to 45 into the vertical. Id avoid two 90 ells
Or a clean out tee in the vertical to allow snaking in either direction, two 45s into the floor fitting
I would not cement a fitting into that hole in the floor
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
@ChrisJ the hole is simply a 4 inch cast length the hole is part of the vent with out jackhammer the floor I want to drop in the new 3 inch stack
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@hotrod ok but why not use cement with a clean out above it? If I use a jackhammer I’ll likely smash the cast beyond the foundation wall then I’m screwed, budget is limited as well can’t run a new line to the street
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Hmm… well, if I were your building inspector it wouldn't fly that way. You'd have to use at least a sanitary T on it's back, and preferably a 45 into the sewer and another 45 to connect to the new stack, with a cleanout.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
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@jamiehall so you would chisel out a section install san T backside where the section of cast is? You know we can’t fit a fernco in there?
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Not sure how I'd do it. Probably break out enough so I could get Ferncos in there, then the lower of @ChrisJ 's checked diagrams.
Not doing it right is asking for trouble… there is an old saying: you can either do it right, or do it again…
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Chipping the cement away from the outside wall of the cast iron pipe is the way to go. Expose enough of the pipe so that you can fit a no-hub (NH) clamp. Preferably a four-band NH clamp. Once that is done install a 4 x 3 PVC bushing directly into the other end of the NH clamp, Or, if you can find a 4 x 3 NH clamp, that would work great too. This will get you the three-inch you are asking about. Then install a clean-out right at the bushing for future rodding and code compliance.
Figure in your Wye or Sanitaty TY as pictured above by @ChrisJ shows above.
You will need to be extra careful not to damage the cast iron pipe when chipping the cement, and you might need to go deeper into the floor than one might expect but this will give you an excellent connection.
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@dko EXCELLENT!! Hey, @hankwylerjr Do this in the video instead.
Thanks for sharing.
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You don't want any sewer water leaking under the slab, so do a proper connection, inspect the condition of the pipe in the slab.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
You don't just jackhammer blindly. Drill a few pilot holes around the pipe to open up the area. Who knows what's below the slab. That could be a sanitary Tee (Tee Wye) on the flat...you can't drop in to that. Big No no. Most residential slabs are 2-3"s and easy to chip up...Go slow...expose that whole fitting & a few inches on either side. Then send us a picture. Mad Dog
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I think it is time to bring up my previous "leak under the sink" discussion again.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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