Understanding Boiler System in New Home

Mbt93

We moved into our new home approx 2 months ago and it's time I understand the boiler system and how to use it optimally. It's an older 1907 1200sq ft home with some additions. It had electric baseboard heat and that was all replaced with a LP boiler system. 6 zones. 5 are baseboard heat. 1 is kickheaters with fans in the kitchen. Here's the equipment:

Vitodens 100W B1HA94

Caleffi ZVR 106 Zone Relay

Grundfos Alpha 2 Pump

Caleffi Hydro Separator

Axiom Glycol Feeder

ACV Smart Cylinder

Basic Honeywell Thermostats for zones

We're working on replacing insulation, windows etc. My question is about the outdoor reset and zones. How does that work when the zones are not all at the same temperature? I know setback is a controversial subject but with zones does it make sense to turn a zone up or down based on occupancy? Its a small house so it might make sense to leave the zones on the main floor all the same temp? After we are done insulating and windows does the system need to be adjusted to account for that. Coming from a house with forced air this is all new.

Dave Carpentier

When you mention different temperature zones, that is airspace temperature and not the boiler's water temperature. Reset controls can work changing the boiler's water temp in relation to the btu needed (due to heat loss from outdoor temp). Taking advantage of periods when lower water temp is needed, lets the boiler condense more (save fuel).

Hot_water_fan

Why the window upgrades? For energy purposes, that’s usually a value destroyer, but for aesthetics, noise, etc. they can be great. Same with insulation, diminishing returns are real.

Overall, the goal is low return water temps. So find the temp that warms the house when it’s coldest outside then make that your max. The house is small so usage should be too, so conserve your energy!

Jamie Hall

If you are upgrading from older thermopane or such like vinyl windows — Anderson, Pella, what have you — probably worth it. In fact, you probably need to. If on the other had you are upgrading from original double hung windows — of pretty much any vintage — you will get a lot more bang for you buck, and much longer life, by having a competent individual tighten them up and adjust them and then investing in decent storm windows — either interior or exterior.

In fact, I'd go so far as to say never replace an original double hung with a "modern" window. Just don't do it.

Mbt93

The windows are very leaky wood double pane. From the 70's and 80's. They no longer close tightly and moisture is getting between the panes. Can these windows be repaired to a point that they are no longer drafty/leaky?

hot_rod

As far as maintaining rooms in one home at different temperatures. Typically the walls between rooms are not insulated, so some temperature difference is workable, a few degrees.

It would be hard to have one bedroom at 60F and the adjoining at 72F for example. Some of the heat from the warmer room will migrate to any colder spaces.

An energy audit with blower door and infrared scan would shed some light on the loss through windows and walls. That may help with a window upgrade decesion. Once a thermopane window loses the seal and they cloud, not much can be done other than a replacement.

There are many options for levels of low E glass also that can help with both heating and cooling loads, if an when you upgrade.

Jamie Hall

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1801187#Comment_1801187

No if moisture is getting between the panes — so they are thermopane or some equivalent — they're done.

The double hung windows to which I was referring are the older single pane windows, usually with weights to counterbalance them. They are worth fixing, and will last a long time (a couple of centures) with care. The newer ones such as you have… not worth fixing, and you've gotten more life out of them than they usually provide.

Dave Carpentier

I replaced my double pane wood framed windows at about the 40 yr mark. Went with double low-e argon in vinyl frames. My pal who worked at the glass shop said dont bother with the triple pane as the cost doesnt pay back (design temp -21f here).

One instant change was that I no longer felt the cold when I walked by a window.

Jamie Hall

I'm in the restoration game for recognized historic structures, not remodelling or renovation — so replacing windows except in the most extreme cases of damage just isn't an option. I use storm windows which mount on the inside from an outfit called "Innerglass", though there are other makers. They are every bit as effective as the best top of the line replacement windows (and a whole lot cheaper). The only trick — which can be overlooked — is to ensure that the actual frame of the opening is sound — but that applies with equal force to modern replacements.

There is, of course, the problem of finding a carpenter who is capable of working on the original windows… somewhat the same problem we have with heating systems!