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Radiator valves on Weil-McLain ECO 155 boiler system

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conner172
conner172 Member Posts: 3
My house is 116 years old and appears to have the original radiators in each room. It seems that none of the shut-off valves have any rubber left on their stoppers, because I can crank the handle closed with no effect on the radiators' heat output, and I don't feel any "give" whatsoever when the valve supposedly "seats" the rubber.

The supply and return pipes on the radiators have a 1" outer diameter threaded pipe. Am I correct in assuming I need to order 1" FIP & Male Union Hot Water Radiator Valves? I just wonder if the Outside Diameter or the Inside Diameter is used when referring to pipes and valves.

I also do not understand why I apparently have a hot water boiler (as opposed to steam), but all of my radiators have what appears to me to be a STEAM bleed valve at the top (see attached image).

The radiators are stamped "American Radiator Co" on the end.

For replacement valves, I'm considering Matco-Norca, Marsh or the cheap one, Bluefin. I prefer high quality and made in the USA over low price. Any recommendations?


Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,653
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    That valve you pictured is a bleeder valve for a hot water system.

    The pipes are sized by the nominal inside diameter.

    The spud in the radiator is matched to the valve, you will have to replace the spud in the radiator with the valve and they usually don't come out easily.

    You could likely put a new washer and packing in the old valves.
    kcopp
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,303
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    Post a picture of the old valves and we can probably tell you how to get it apart to repair it. Which is a whole lot easier than replacing it...
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    mattmia2
  • conner172
    conner172 Member Posts: 3
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    Here are photos of one of the valves in question.




  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,303
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    hmmm... well, easy enough to repack if they are leaking around the stem, but somehow I have a feeling that getting the bonnet off to get at the washer and seat might be a bit difficult. Might not, too -- they may be all brass, in which case they will at least not have rusted together... just a lot of paint sealing them.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • conner172
    conner172 Member Posts: 3
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    I'll try to get some paint remover and very carefully brush it on the valve. I'll try very hard not to get any on the working mechanisms. Then we'll see better.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,653
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    a wire wheel will take the paint off. might want to avoid breathing it since it is likely lead paint.
    conner172