Radiator Air Vent Recommendations

JodiMe

Hi all. Any recommendations for a temperature regulating air valve for a steam radiator? We are moving our daughter to a bigger bedroom, but it's the closest to our radiator and heats HOT. It's like a steam room in there when the boiler is really firing (i also think the radiator is much too big for the room but that's a discussion for another time). Currently have a gorton style valve on it with the smallest hole. Thanks!

Edit: after doing research, seems like this would be an option? https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-Home-V2043HSL10-1-8-One-Pipe-Steam-Thermostatic-Radiator-Valve-Includes-Air-Vent



One pipe system, btw....

EBEBRATT-Ed

Yes that would be an option. You might try a "Vent Rite" adjustable air vent first as a cheaper option.

A couple of questions, does the boiler build pressure when running? How much?

Is this the only radiator you have trouble with?

JodiMe

Thanks.

Re: the boiler pressure, I'll have to take a look when it fires up again. I haven't checked in a while.

Yes, this is really the only radiator we have issues with. We spent a lot of time and trial and error to get this system balanced when we first moved in in 2015 and it's been pretty smooth sailing since - with the exception of that one very hot room. But since it was a guest room/office until now, we just didn't worry too much about it. It's really only an issue when the heat turns up multiple degrees like in the morning or late afternoon before we come home from work.

Is this the type of vent you're talking about? https://www.fwwebb.com/woitem/496*1?msclkid=d5c772674436123f69cb1466d80b4d98&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=FWWEBB-BING-US-EN-SHOP-ALLPRODUCTS-INFOOT&utm_term=4580909053578458&utm_content=All Products

EBEBRATT-Ed

yes

Jamie Hall

Ninety percent of y9our problem is that you have setbacks. Regardless of what the eco warriors may say, neither steam not hot water is happy with setbacks of more than two or three degrees

Mustangman

Jamie Hall. You are exactly right. Steam probably a little more so than HW, hates set back. When we go through the final system set up, we take a lot of time setting up the timer that keeps the boiler from filling right away when it detects low water. By setting the delay time on boiler fill, you are giving system condensate a chance to get back to the boiler and not re-filling the system with fresh water causing overfill. Set back a few degrees and thats is. I have seen condensate get up to the first floor radiators from this very problem.

JodiMe

While I appreciate the diagnosis of "set back" i have no idea what that is nor do I have any idea how to fix it.

exqheat

Is there a cent at the other end of the radiator.
Change to Maid-o-Mist with variable size vent holes.

exqheat

What is your operating pressure?

Jamie Hall

JodiMe said:

While I appreciate the diagnosis of "set back" i have no idea what that is nor do I have any idea how to fix it.

That's governed by your thermostat, and is the amount you lower ("set back") the thermostat when you are not present or are sleeping. Hot air systems--which are the most common -- can function moderately well even with as much as 5 to 10 degrees of set back, but steam and hot water systems start to get tricky with more than two or three degrees -- particularly one pipe systems, which it appears you may have. They go out of balance on longer runs -- which is what you are seeing.

So how to fix it? Don't set the thermostat so low when you leave or at night! Or if it's programmable, change the program to have less difference.

JodiMe

exqheat said:

What is your operating pressure?

I keep forgetting to check! It hasn't been that cold this week so it hasn't fired as much. Will try to remember!

JodiMe

Jamie Hall said:

JodiMe said:

While I appreciate the diagnosis of "set back" i have no idea what that is nor do I have any idea how to fix it.

That's governed by your thermostat, and is the amount you lower ("set back") the thermostat when you are not present or are sleeping. Hot air systems--which are the most common -- can function moderately well even with as much as 5 to 10 degrees of set back, but steam and hot water systems start to get tricky with more than two or three degrees -- particularly one pipe systems, which it appears you may have. They go out of balance on longer runs -- which is what you are seeing.

So how to fix it? Don't set the thermostat so low when you leave or at night! Or if it's programmable, change the program to have less difference.

Super helpful. Thanks for explaining. Makes sense. Do you think a combo of this and changing the vent would help? I just checked and there's a Maid-O-Mist 4 on there. I'm looking and see that 4 is the smallest I can find. Is there a smaller opening available???

exqheat

Are your pipes insulated with 2" fiberglass?

JodiMe

JodiMe said:

exqheat said:

What is your operating pressure?

I keep forgetting to check! It hasn't been that cold this week so it hasn't fired as much. Will try to remember!

It's firing right now at about 5.5 psi.

Jamie Hall

I'll bet that gauge isn't all that accurate -- those things usually aren't at low pressure. At least I hope it isn't. You might try turning the pressuretrol indicator down a bit, to halfway between that "2" mark and the "0.5" mark.

neilc

yeah, dial the Ptrol down,
and take another picture or 2,

let's see the whole of the Ptrol, pigtail, sightglass, and low water cutoff,

if the Ptrol is up at 2, who and how did it get there?
is the Ptrol differential wheel, inside the cover, set to 1?

and has the pigtail been serviced?

JodiMe

I’m not adjusting a thing - it took a long time to get this system balanced when we first moved in. We had plumbers completely mess it up, and spent thousands with another plumber to get it back to normal again. Pigtail probably needs a clean though - thanks for that reminder.

All works fine - still just trying to figure out how to regulate the temp in that one room with the too big radiator. 

Jamie Hall

Fair enough. If it works, don't fix it! Now on that one room. If -- and only if -- the boiler shuts off on pressure during longer runs (called cycling) you can gain control of the heat in that room with a thermostatic radiator VENT (not valve) which you would put on in place of the existing vent. They work by closing when the room is too warm, and so when the radiator cycles off and they are closed they will stay closed when the boiler comes on again, and keep that radiator from overheating the room.

exqheat

Reduce pressure to 1 lb - .5 and you will be more comfortable.

JodiMe

Jamie Hall said:

Fair enough. If it works, don't fix it! Now on that one room. If -- and only if -- the boiler shuts off on pressure during longer runs (called cycling) you can gain control of the heat in that room with a thermostatic radiator VENT (not valve) which you would put on in place of the existing vent. They work by closing when the room is too warm, and so when the radiator cycles off and they are closed they will stay closed when the boiler comes on again, and keep that radiator from overheating the room.

Cool - thanks for understanding! I still have PTSD from a month of water hammer and water literally spraying out of the vents from the plumbers who increased our pressure.

Do you have a recommendation for the vent?

JodiMe

exqheat said:

Reduce pressure to 1 lb - .5 and you will be more comfortable.

How will that affect the rest of the house, which is heated pretty evenly?

exqheat

It will heat the whole house more evenly. The system was designed for 1-2.5 lbs pressure with a 2 lb differential. Try it you'll like it. You can always tweak it after that.

JodiMe

JodiMe said:

Fair enough. If it works, don't fix it! Now on that one room. If -- and only if -- the boiler shuts off on pressure during longer runs (called cycling) you can gain control of the heat in that room with a thermostatic radiator VENT (not valve) which you would put on in place of the existing vent. They work by closing when the room is too warm, and so when the radiator cycles off and they are closed they will stay closed when the boiler comes on again, and keep that radiator from overheating the room.

Cool - thanks for understanding! I still have PTSD from a month of water hammer and water literally spraying out of the vents from the plumbers who increased our pressure. Do you have a recommendation for the vent?

Renewing this. Can you recommend a vent? I have found plenty of valves or vents that attach to valves but my vents, of course, attach separately on the other side of the cast iron rad. Thanks!

exqheat

Maid-o-Mist from Supply House.

JodiMe

That is what I have on there now. #4. Is there another style? 

ethicalpaul

That is about the smallest possible vent and I recommend it too, it works.

If the radiator is still putting too much heat into the room I would cover most or all of it with a wool blanket. That will dramatically reduce the amount of heat the radiator can radiate, effectively making it smaller.