LOCHINVAR NOBLE KEEPS NEEDING MANUAL RESET HELP!
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Hi RickDelta! I am so stupid I should have take a picture of the error code. It happened to me a few times and just went back to normal. The kids are just here for a month for an internship. They suck at cooking..these kids nowadaysRickDelta said:If I were you , I would just fly to Florida and let them cook for you! : )
Are you getting any error codes?0 -
Managed to get some images. Manually resetted 2 hours ago.
Just flipped the heating all to 77F.
ARHL 200
MRHL 1900 -
5 minutes in after RUN hits 100% to drive the outlet to 170C. Drops down and then enter post purge and ignite and finally settle to around 10%. Hot water runs fine and boiling hot to shower. Baseboard heating on fine. What could be the issue?
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Yes that manual reset is at 190. Should I move it unto 200 alongside with the automatic reset hi limit?hot_rod said:When it hits high limit it will need a manual reset, looks like 190F
Got a pic of the piping, it could be a flow issue0 -
Haha! I don't think I ever had an outdoor sensor. It has just been saying Outdoor Sensor missing for a while nowRickDelta said:This is a very common problem for your area this time of year!
The Canadian moose migrate down your way looking for food and mistakenly thought your outdoor sensor was a tasty ear of field corn.
Have your checked to see if your outdoor sensor is still there?0 -
Insightful. Is it possible you could elaborate? Which pipe do you need me to look for and take a picture of? I think it was a flow issue too because sometime we are using the hot water all 4 people at once and maybe this is the issue. When I was alone before they came, everything worked fine and beautifully (although I like and leave my temp a tad lower than what the kids like)hot_rod said:When it hits high limit it will need a manual reset, looks like 190F
Got a pic of the piping, it could be a flow issue0 -
My Lochinvar Noble decides to keep needing me to run down and manually resetting it.
Can you send pic of what exactly your ressetting and how?
...... and how long has this "missing outdoor sensor" been showing?0 -
How old is it? Has the heat exchanger ever been descaled? 140 seems high for DWHBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
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I see one glaring problem in the above descriptions. You have a manual reset upper limit at 190, but the automatic cutoff upper limit is at 200? Really? What was someone thinking? The automatic cutoff must be below the manual, or which one do you think will trip first?
Please...
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
You are attempting to run that boiler at full-tilt boogie i.e. "we are using the hot water all 4 people at once"--without adjusting all of the proper settings. You are also running your system pressure rather high at 25psi. It will blow off at 30psi.--be aware. The installer probably never put up the outdoor sensor. You are missing a major aspect of this boiler's ability to operate at full efficiency most of the time--especially when those "kids" aren't there. Post a few pictures of the general plumbing layout for more comprehensive help from this forum. Use the manual or get a service person to adjust the boiler to proper settings and adjust AGAIN after "kids" leave.2
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I had that exact boiler, typically on a large draw output temperature drops. It should not cause a lock out. Really it should never hit the high limits, those are safeties not operating control settings. The manual tells you the maximum you should set the limits.
It sounds like the heat exchanger cannot transfer the heat when at high flow, high temperature.
Watching the display at those conditions will tell the story.
The control can be adjusted, or you can, with one keystroke get to the factory default settings and it will run just fine.
A clean and check on the whole unit might be a good idea, including a combustion analyzer check.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
Probably since I purchased the house. Just tested and kept the temperature stable and not have the kids turning the Nest thermostat up and down today. Haven't reset so far.RickDelta said:My Lochinvar Noble decides to keep needing me to run down and manually resetting it.
Can you send pic of what exactly your ressetting and how?
...... and how long has this "missing outdoor sensor" been showing?0 -
I saw your post too. It never have had the red screen screaming lockout ever. It just says it needs to be reignited/reset I can't remember. It happened to me twice before - once randomly and once I was doing a lot of hot water laundry.hot_rod said:I had that exact boiler, typically on a large draw output temperature drops. It should not cause a lock out. Really it should never hit the high limits, those are safeties not operating control settings. The manual tells you the maximum you should set the limits.
It sounds like the heat exchanger cannot transfer the heat when at high flow, high temperature.
Watching the display at those conditions will tell the story.
The control can be adjusted, or you can, with one keystroke get to the factory default settings and it will run just fine.
A clean and check on the whole unit might be a good idea, including a combustion analyzer check.0 -
psb75 said:
You are attempting to run that boiler at full-tilt boogie i.e. "we are using the hot water all 4 people at once"--without adjusting all of the proper settings. You are also running your system pressure rather high at 25psi. It will blow off at 30psi.--be aware. The installer probably never put up the outdoor sensor. You are missing a major aspect of this boiler's ability to operate at full efficiency most of the time--especially when those "kids" aren't there. Post a few pictures of the general plumbing layout for more comprehensive help from this forum. Use the manual or get a service person to adjust the boiler to proper settings and adjust AGAIN after "kids" leave.
Exactly what was going on my mind yesterday too. Should I flip the manual to 200 and automatic at 190?Jamie Hall said:I see one glaring problem in the above descriptions. You have a manual reset upper limit at 190, but the automatic cutoff upper limit is at 200? Really? What was someone thinking? The automatic cutoff must be below the manual, or which one do you think will trip first?
Please...2 -
It's probably 7 years old.hot_rod said:How old is it? Has the heat exchanger ever been descaled? 140 seems high for DWH
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If you don't have any history or stickers indicating when it was last cleaned, its time. Open the boiler and clean, descale the hx. Replace flame rod, gaskets , and check combustion and gas pressureBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
YES, and try 180 instead of 190bosstowner said:Should I flip the manual to 200 and automatic at 190?
known to beat dead horses0 -
See what the DHW temperature is set to and the limits need to be above that.
I think the boiler runs to 180 on dhw call, due to the small hx they use
The manual will indicate factory defaultsBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Something similar happened to my daughter's Locknivar boiler too, discussed this thread awhile ego.
The short version of it is, that her issue was/is related to the NG pressure in the boiler. Either the gas company has some issues with NG pressure on occasion, or many customers using NG drops the pressure. The gas piping after the gas meter is also suspect. Since this is not something that happens every day, maybe once a year, my daughter is reluctant to spend money on updating the gas line.
The OP runs the boiler close to the max output, where the gas pressure might be an issue. By no means that I am stating that's the source of the issue. This is just a wild guess....1 -
Hi! I actually have a city officer come over to update the city's gas meter in the house 6 months ago actually. So I don't think it's any gas issue since I feel it's pretty reliable where I live. Thank you for your input - I'll definitely note that down in case it trips again.Skyline said:Something similar happened to my daughter's Locknivar boiler too, discussed this thread awhile ego.
The short version of it is, that her issue was/is related to the NG pressure in the boiler. Either the gas company has some issues with NG pressure on occasion, or many customers using NG drops the pressure. The gas piping after the gas meter is also suspect. Since this is not something that happens every day, maybe once a year, my daughter is reluctant to spend money on updating the gas line.
The OP runs the boiler close to the max output, where the gas pressure might be an issue. By no means that I am stating that's the source of the issue. This is just a wild guess....0 -
It has been a while, but that delta t seems a little tight to me. Flow issues?
For sure need to readjust the automatic reset and the manual reset limits though.
Rick0 -
Hi! I got some pictures here!psb75 said:You are attempting to run that boiler at full-tilt boogie i.e. "we are using the hot water all 4 people at once"--without adjusting all of the proper settings. You are also running your system pressure rather high at 25psi. It will blow off at 30psi.--be aware. The installer probably never put up the outdoor sensor. You are missing a major aspect of this boiler's ability to operate at full efficiency most of the time--especially when those "kids" aren't there. Post a few pictures of the general plumbing layout for more comprehensive help from this forum. Use the manual or get a service person to adjust the boiler to proper settings and adjust AGAIN after "kids" leave.
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Should I just leave it all on factory defaults? How low should DHW be? Could it still heat my house if it's lower than 140? (which I think is currently set right now)hot_rod said:See what the DHW temperature is set to and the limits need to be above that.
I think the boiler runs to 180 on dhw call, due to the small hx they use
The manual will indicate factory defaults0 -
You have service valves under the unit to flush the hx. If that hasn’t been done in 7 years, start there
These are easy to use kits for cleaning the water side of the hxBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
I don't know for factory defaults , , ,bosstowner said:
Should I just leave it all on factory defaults? How low should DHW be? Could it still heat my house if it's lower than 140? (which I think is currently set right now)
that's a combi boiler, heating, and domestic hot,
set your heating water to 180, tops, unless you need more,
keep that high limit at 200 for now,
where are you located?
the domestic, any hotter than 120 and you run scalding possibilities,
good you have that mix valve,
set your domestic to 120, and let the burner modulate,
140? 180? , , , too hot, way too hot !
do you have your manual ?known to beat dead horses0 -
For the mixing valve to operate properly the DHW temperature needs to be at least 140f. The hot inlet to the mixer needs to be 20 degrees warmer than the adjusted mix temperature of 120
Lochinvar has all the manuals online.
Start on page 56
The limits should be 200 for auto, 210 for manual (default settings)
DHW is default 120, you need to raise it to 140
https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/Lochinvar-NKC199N-User-Guide.pdf
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0
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