HTP UFT error 11 help

joncroteau

I’ve started a new thread as I have highjacked my previous thread with a different issue. 

My HTP UFT80 was installed in late 2016. I am just recently dealing with a persistent but intermittent error 11 (no ignition). Coincidence or not, this began after my gas company came out for a leak at my house regulator. I believe I have worked through all of the steps outlined in the manual but the error still happens. It happened when it was around 15f outside and also just now while it is 39F outside. I’ve completed the steps below:

LP line pressure to the valve was set to 10.9
new ignition was installed
combustion test came back within specs on low and high fire
burner and heatx were cleaned
both vents have no restrictions on air flow
rubber flapper in blower is in tact
condensate trap and lines are clean

Tech support said to clean the burner and that would probably solve it. I did but it is still throwing errors. 

Does anyone have any tips or information on what direction to go with this next?

GroundUp

I had one of these that was making me pull my hair out for the same error code. If I'd loosen that nut on the "mixer" that brings the gas in and let it suck air, it'd light every time. I threw parts at it 10 different times and essentially had a new boiler but the same issue persisted. Then I drilled a 1/2" diameter hole in the rubber intake boot inside the cabinet, and 3 years later it's never done it again.

joncroteau

GroundUp said:

I had one of these that was making me pull my hair out for the same error code. If I'd loosen that nut on the "mixer" that brings the gas in and let it suck air, it'd light every time. I threw parts at it 10 different times and essentially had a new boiler but the same issue persisted. Then I drilled a 1/2" diameter hole in the rubber intake boot inside the cabinet, and 3 years later it's never done it again.

I did read that solution on this forum somewhere. Whats the science behind it? When you say you loosened the nut. Are you talking about the nut on the small clear line that comes off the intake? Also- was your error code intermittent? Mine works sometimes, but other times not. Could you tell me exactly where you drilled? I’m at my wits end and I may give it a go. 

pedmec

two things that i would do that i have done in the past. First, use compressed air to blow out the mesh burner. To solve one problem I had I was recommended by engineering of the boiler to blow the mesh burner out with 95 psi of air. problem solved.

if problems persist i would inspect the mixer and the air damper. i'm not to familiar with this boiler but the air damper looks like an item that could give you nuisance lockouts.

mattmia2

Make sure the screens on the intake and exhaust didn't get clogged or maybe ice or water ended up somewhere in the vents when it was shut down because f the gas problem.

joncroteau

mattmia2 said:

Make sure the screens on the intake and exhaust didn't get clogged or maybe ice or water ended up somewhere in the vents when it was shut down because f the gas problem.

Nothing is clogged in the vents. All air is flowing freely. 

Ironman

Here’s another current thread that deals with the ignition issue:

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/195923/htp-boiler-short-cycle#latest

joncroteau

Ironman said:

Here’s another current thread that deals with the ignition issue:

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/195923/htp-boiler-short-cycle#latest

That was my thread as well 😀 . I did take your advice and turned on step modulation, set the combustion rate down to 60% and turned the CH water set temp down. I wish I knew this years ago. This definitely slowed the cycles way down - thank you for that info. The ignition issue (which predated the cycling issue) is still ongoing. 

Ironman

I copied the wrong link - my apologies.

Im glad the adjustments improved your situation.

Here’s the correct thread:

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/195772/htp-uft-199-boiler-lp#latest

joncroteau

Thank you. I thought I had seen this potential remedy in here somewhere. 

GroundUp

I have no idea what the science is, I just know it fixed the problem. I'm referring to the nut that you have circled in the above photo. Yes it was intermittent and sometimes I could recreate it, sometimes not. There is a rubber "elbow" fitting that comes from the intake pipe inside the cabinet, to the inlet side of the mixer. I drilled a hole in the bottom of it, right near the elbow in the rear of the cabinet where it turns to come forward.

joncroteau

GroundUp said:

I have no idea what the science is, I just know it fixed the problem. I'm referring to the nut that you have circled in the above photo. Yes it was intermittent and sometimes I could recreate it, sometimes not. There is a rubber "elbow" fitting that comes from the intake pipe inside the cabinet, to the inlet side of the mixer. I drilled a hole in the bottom of it, right near the elbow in the rear of the cabinet where it turns to come forward.

Thanks. I guess it couldn’t hurt. I could always patch it up if it becomes a problem. 

dko

Nvm, your original post says you checked it

joncroteau

Quick update on this issue: 
After multiple visits by the gas company, I discovered the regulator on the underground propane tank was freezing up. Gas company came out and changed the regulator and did a pressure check. They said they were confident that was my issue. The system has been up and running for 24 hours so far with no ignition lockout.

update #2. Boiler ran for 2 days with no issue. Just got an Error 11 again. Back to the drawing board. 

mlarco

Having this exact issue error 11 and not sure how to adjust the mixture screw. Where exactly would it be located. I'm on a htp uft-199w. Seems it's not getting enough gas to keep lighting. After a few on off attempts and letting the unit sit for a bit it seems to fire up but only after a while.

Need help asap if anyone can direct me to which is the mixture screw.

Thank you


Edit:

I figure from the diagram from the manual where the screws are. However, I am wondering which one is needed to be adjusted to turn up the gas mixture. The inlet screw or the outlet. Inlet obviously makes sense but when adjusting the inlet screw does the outlet screw get adjusted the same also?

Thanks

Pictures attached

Ironman

This is NOT something a DIY should be attempting to do! You’re running the risk of an explosion or CO poisoning.

Only a properly trained technician with a combustion analyzer should attempt this.

yellowdog

@mlarco If you don't know without asking, you don't touch!