Oil boiler keeps cutting off

imxelite

Hi,

I had a new boiler installed last year and was having random problems. During the last summer when my boiler was only being used for hot water I didn't experience any issue. As soon as fall came and we turned on the heat we started having issues again. This new issue is that the boiler randomly cuts off. When I say cut off I don't mean the power is cut but the boiler doesn't turn back on once the water temp gets below the threshold. I've had the oil company out over 7 times and they even out sourced to a third party oil company and they still can't figure it out. 

The last oil repair person said the taco circulator wasn't on but when he removed the housing and adjusted the wires he heard it kick on. He thought that was the issue and left. It still happened after the person left later that night. 

My question is would a circulator cause the boiler not to turn on when the water temp goes below the low set point? Also it is difficult to recreate because it happens randomly throughout the day. 

HVACNUT

Post pics. Lots of them. From 10 feet away. Different angles. Floor to ceiling. 
Make and model boiler. 
Make and model burner.

imxelite

STEVEusaPA

Well we can rule out it was a licensed install with a permit and inspections. No way that flies in front of the electrical panel. And the install itself
We'd have to know a lot more by what you mean regarding 'cutting off'.
Is it running up to temperature because it's oversized and/or water is not circulating, so it shuts off the burner on high limit.
Is there enough water in the boiler and is it properly purged of air?
Is power going to the burner, but it's not running?
Is any limit open when it shouldn't be?

Despite all the people who stopped by. Doesn't seem any of them are the right one for you.

imxelite

STEVEusaPA said:

Well we can rule out it was a licensed install with a permit and inspections. No way that flies in front of the electrical panel. And the install itself We'd have to know a lot more by what you mean regarding 'cutting off'. Is it running up to temperature because it's oversized and/or water is not circulating, so it shuts off the burner on high limit. Is there enough water in the boiler and is it properly purged of air? Is power going to the burner, but it's not running? Is any limit open when it shouldn't be? Despite all the people who stopped by. Doesn't seem any of them are the right one for you.

By cutting off I mean the water temp gets below the low limit and the boiler doesn't kick on. This issue happens randomly but most often it will happen overnight and in the morning I notice my water temp reads around 80-120 degrees depending on when I get up and check the system. When I switch the power switch to the oil boiler off and back on the system runs as normal. 

EBEBRATT-Ed

Very sloppy install. They blocked the electrical panel. You need 30" wide at the panel and nothing behind uou.

Anyone who installs like that will not be able to troubleshoot.

Are you having to reset the burner control? What kind of thermostat do you have? Are the batteries if any ok?

You said you had random problems after the install but that it runs ok for hot water. Is that still the case?

If it is the Hydrostat control is probably not set up properly. Open the cover and show us the settings. Read the hydrostat control so you can scroll through the settings.

Your going to have to do this if you can't find someone to fix it.

Post your location maybe someone can help.

imxelite

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

Very sloppy install. They blocked the electrical panel. You need 30" wide at the panel and nothing behind uou. Anyone who installs like that will not be able to troubleshoot. Are you having to reset the burner control? What kind of thermostat do you have? Are the batteries if any ok? You said you had random problems after the install but that it runs ok for hot water. Is that still the case? If it is the Hydrostat control is probably not set up properly. Open the cover and show us the settings. Read the hydrostat control so you can scroll through the settings. Your going to have to do this if you can't find someone to fix it. Post your location maybe someone can help.

The other random problems were the hot water for the shower wasn't lasting more than 5 mins. Also the master bedroom wasn't getting putting out enough heat the baseboards were barely warm. Both issues were corrected by adjust the mixer valve and bleeding the system multiple times. 

I have attached a picture of the hydrostat controller . When the boiler stops cutting on once the water gets below the low limit I only have to switch off and on the service switch to get things back to normal. FYI. My boiler settings are HL 180 diff 15, low limit 160 diff 10. 

imxelite

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

Very sloppy install. They blocked the electrical panel. You need 30" wide at the panel and nothing behind uou. Anyone who installs like that will not be able to troubleshoot. Are you having to reset the burner control? What kind of thermostat do you have? Are the batteries if any ok? You said you had random problems after the install but that it runs ok for hot water. Is that still the case? If it is the Hydrostat control is probably not set up properly. Open the cover and show us the settings. Read the hydrostat control so you can scroll through the settings. Your going to have to do this if you can't find someone to fix it. Post your location maybe someone can help.

Also my location is Montgomery County, PA. 

HVACNUT

When there is a heat call, a green light in the bottom right corner should be illuminated. 
Hi- 180
Lo- 160
Diff.- 10 on both.
You can press the button on top to scroll through the settings. 

imxelite

HVACNUT said:

When there is a heat call, a green light in the bottom right corner should be illuminated. 
Hi- 180
Lo- 160
Diff.- 10 on both.
You can press the button on top to scroll through the settings. 

The picture with the 142 water temp there was a call for heat but the boiler wouldn't cut on. The second picture showing 164 I just took right now and the boiler is running since the call for heat was once the low limit was hit. 

HVACNUT

So at 142° there is a heat call but no burner. The red light for the LWCO is not on, correct? If not, you'll need an electrical meter for the next step. Is there 120 volts across B1 and B2.

STEVEusaPA

I’d like to know the rest of the settings.

imxelite

HVACNUT said:

So at 142° there is a heat call but no burner. The red light for the LWCO is not on, correct? If not, you'll need an electrical meter for the next step. Is there 120 volts across B1 and B2.

The red light is not on. I'll pick up a meter tomorrow and check voltage. Thanks again for the help. 

imxelite

STEVEusaPA said:

I’d like to know the rest of the settings.

What other settings? When I hit the red button it only displays the high low settings.

MikeAmann

It's time for you to read your manual: https://hydrolevel.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/HydroStat-3150-Instructions-web2.pdf

Need videos instead? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_lGb7UGSQE&list=PLNbe5yRL5D_yblIxtNtQDRVCr9yUWSDiz&pp=iAQB

imxelite

HVACNUT said:

So at 142° there is a heat call but no burner. The red light for the LWCO is not on, correct? If not, you'll need an electrical meter for the next step. Is there 120 volts across B1 and B2.

I found my meter and the boiler cut out just now so I was able to test. With a call for heat the voltage between b1 and b2 showed 0. I reset the boiler and did another test and it showed 125 

MikeAmann

You measured at the B1 and B2 screw terminals?

imxelite

MikeAmann said:

You measured at the B1 and B2 screw terminals?

Yes. When the boiler won't turn on it reads 0. But when I reset it reads 125.

HVACNUT

imxelite said:

MikeAmann said:

You measured at the B1 and B2 screw terminals?

Yes. When the boiler won't turn on it reads 0. But when I reset it reads 125.

"Reset" when around an oil burner usually refers to the primary if the burner goes into safety lockout. But I'm assuming you mean you physically turn off the power, then turn it back on and you get 120 volts across B1 and B2 and the burner energizes.

If so, then it could be a bad Hydrostat. But do this first. Shut off the power. Run to the Hardware store and pick up some BX connectors (not Romex). They come in straight and angle. Somebody shouldn't be working on electric. The box is plastic and the metal plate around the bottom is for grounding. If the control isn't properly grounded, it won't function properly. And that green wire that looks like it's under the spell of a snake charmer should get connected to the green ground screw. Open the switch box and make sure its actually being used as a ground.
That's just gross.

lobuc

Those flex terminations are dangerous and could be shorting. You should rewire with proper flex connections with bushings.

imxelite

Thanks everyone. I have called the owner of the oil company that did the install. I am going to have them allow me to find an installer on my own to address these issues and I'll send them the bill. I really wish I knew this install was not done to code and if needed I might have to take legal action due to safety reasons.  

The boiler (heat exchanger) is under a 10 year warranty but other parts are only covered for a year and I have about 3 months before that is up.

pecmsg

imxelite said:

Thanks everyone. I have called the owner of the oil company that did the install. I am going to have them allow me to find an installer on my own to address these issues and I'll send them the bill. I really wish I knew this install was not done to code and if needed I might have to take legal action due to safety reasons.  

The boiler (heat exchanger) is under a 10 year warranty but other parts are only covered for a year and I have about 3 months before that is up.

Code is minimum standard. 

MikeAmann

Armored/metal clad cable connectors - all available at Home Depot or Lowes.
And get that green wire connected to the green grounding screw.