when to replace oil furnace shutoff solenoid ?

EdTheHeaterMan

These are about the same issue.

Air in oil line oil heater

AND

When to replace oil furnace shutoff solenoid ?

Perhaps @Erin Holohan Haskell can merge them so everyone that has contributed already can follow the progress, and we don't need to ask the same questions over again. Like I just did.

paulmars

New thread is not about shutoff solenoid 

EBEBRATT-Ed

what @EdTheHeaterMan said

Do not use M. ACR tubing is the same as L.

ACR comes in 50' coils L comes in 60 foot coils

Also ACR is measured by the OD and L by the nominal ID

so 3/8 OD Acr would be 1/4" L

If you get prices on 3/8 " L that would also raise the price and be the wrong size also the extra 10'

You should use the plastic coated tubing if run in contact with concrete or cement. Overhead lines don't need the coating

EBEBRATT-Ed

Not sure if soft tubing is even available in M

paulmars

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

what @EdTheHeaterMan said Do not use M. ACR tubing is the same as L. ACR comes in 50' coils L comes in 60 foot coils Also ACR is measured by the OD and L by the nominal ID so 3/8 OD Acr would be 1/4" L If you get prices on 3/8 " L that would also raise the price and be the wrong size also the extra 10' You should use the plastic coated tubing if run in contact with concrete or cement. Overhead lines don't need the coating

Tubing i just purchased has same od and slightly larger id then my existing tubing. I checked it.

EdTheHeaterMan

paulmars said:

Tubing i just purchased has same od and slightly larger id then my existing tubing. I checked it.

I wonder if you measured the ID with a micrometer or a ruler?
I wonder if you measured the ID before reaming or after reaming?
I wonder if the existing tubing is thicker wall than the new tubing?
I wonder what the existing tubing designation is? Could it be L or K or something else?

Interesting Facts from Copper.org

Seamless Copper Water Tube:
Copper water tube is a seamless, almost pure copper
material manufactured to the requirements of ASTM B 88 –
Standard Specification for Seamless Copper Water Tube, of
three basic wall thickness dimensions designated as types K, L,
and M. Type K is the thickest and type M is the thinnest with
type L being of intermediate thickness. All three types of tube
are manufactured from copper alloy C12200 having a chemical
composition of a minimum of 99.9% Copper (Cu) and Silver
(Ag) combined and a maximum allowable range of
Phosphorous (P) of 0.015 % - 0.040 %.
Seamless copper water tube is manufactured in sizes ¼”
through 12” nominal. Types K and L are manufactured in drawn
temper (hard) ¼” through 12” and annealed temper (soft) coils
¼” through 2” while type M is only manufactured in drawn (hard)
temper ¼” through 12”.
Seamless copper water tube of drawn temper is required to
be identified with a color stripe that contains the manufacturer’s
name or trademark, type of tube and nation of origin. This color
stripe is green for type K, blue for type L and red for type M. In
addition to the color stripe the tube is incised with the type of
tube and the manufacturer’s name or trademark at intervals not
in excess of 1½ ft. Annealed (soft) coils or annealed straight
lengths are not required to be identified with a color stripe

There are specific dimensions for each of the letter specifications as noted in the following (partial) tables:



Not included in this list of (partial) tables is the tubing rating if DWV because it is thinner than M Copper and the sizes start at 1-1/4" Nominal size, so you will not find any 3/8"OD or 1/4" ID with that specification

paulmars

Existing tubing been here since i bought house in 1986.

Micrometer for od. 
Drill bits for id. Confirmed with visual comparison of old and new sidewall Thickness.

My background is dimensional quality control.

New is acr tubing.

New fits in flair tool 3\8 opening.

New fits comfortable in new 3\8 flair nut fitting.

EdTheHeaterMan

What does the inside of the oil burner fan housing look like? The fuel pump shaft seal may be the source of the leak. That test is done with a vacuum gauge.
1. Make sure the fuel pump has oil in it.
2. Make sure the bypass in the pump is not plugged. If you have a 2 pipe system, remove the return line and remove the bypass plug and plug the return line port with pipe dope and a 1/4" plug
3. Install a vacuum gauge in the inlet port of the pump
4. operate the pump and watch the vacuum gauge drop to 15" Hg when you open the bleeder.
5. AT 15" Hg vacuum shut off the bleed port. The vacuum should for 10 minutes.
6. If there is a leak in the gasket of pump seal or any of the other ports on the pump, then vacuum will drop in short order.

If the oil supply tubing is not leaking, and you cant get a good vacuum test on the pump, you should think about replacing the fuel pump.

Was that not your first question anyway?

EdTheHeaterMan

The reason I asked about the inside of the fan housing.. is it wet with oil and full of oily dust and lint from operating with a fuel leak inside the burner housing. When ever I spill oil and it gets sucked into the burner fan, I will take the burner motor out and remove the fan, spray it with degreaser and rinse with clear water. I don't want an oily coating to act as a dust magnet and cause the lint to stick on the flan blades over the season of operation.

I also spray cleaner inside the housing and wipe all the oil from that air way, all the way down the the air tube where the nozzle line is located... anywhere inside the burner housing I can reach with a clean dry rag gets wiped down.

paulmars

Inside fan housing is dry.