Thoughts on upgrading boiler system

Aviationguy

delcrossv said:

The only other step is to see how the place heats. If it still doesn't keep up on a really cold night, turn it up a bit more.

Rather than that, make sure you don't have air in the rads FIRST. If there's air in the rads, you can turn it up all day and it still won't heat well. But it should be at 180 +/-. On another point, did the tech drain the compression tank as part of your service? Edit: Bet someone turned the aquastat down to preserve that rubber mess on the return pipe.

He did not drain the tank as part of the service. They mainly just focused on the boiler itself none of the other components to my knowledge. But I also didn't hover when he was down there. Just let him do his thing.

I'll get the company y'all recommended out here and then I'll go over everything that was said here.

I appreciate it everyone

Aviationguy

delcrossv said:

If you are going to the trouble of fixing the rubber coupling, you should know that the circulator should not be mounted with the shaft vertically. I personally would replace the pipe on the return side and then replace the union and the pipe on the boiler outlet after the air separator with the circulator with its shaft mounted horizontally so the system will now be pumping away from the point of no pressure change. I would also maybe look at replacing the aquastat with a new modern hydrostat for efficiency.

Only if you willing to add an outdoor reset etc. Probably not worth the expense. Although the location isn't great, I'd worry about breaking something in trying to move that pump.

Hate to be a pain but can you circle on the photo I posted and show me what you are talking about?

delcrossv

Aviationguy said:

delcrossv said:

NoelAnderson said:

If you are going to the trouble of fixing the rubber coupling, you should know that the circulator should not be mounted with the shaft vertically. I personally would replace the pipe on the return side and then replace the union and the pipe on the boiler outlet after the air separator with the circulator with its shaft mounted horizontally so the system will now be pumping away from the point of no pressure change. I would also maybe look at replacing the aquastat with a new modern hydrostat for efficiency.

Only if you willing to add an outdoor reset etc. Probably not worth the expense.

Although the location isn't great, I'd worry about breaking something in trying to move that pump.

Hate to be a pain but can you circle on the photo I posted and show me what you are talking about?


Here's your pump:


You can see what Gerry has to say about that. I'd recommend letting him go through the system and then see what he recommends. It's getting warmer so I'd suggest leaving the aquastat alone until he replaces the rotted return, purges the system etc. Then he can kick it up a little. I really don't advise replacing a control that's working fine, but the system is set kinda cool.

Grundfos pumps don't like that orientation, so you can ask him if it's worth it to put it on the vertical run.

EdTheHeaterMan

EdTheHeaterMan

You might think about this setup, if you are going to drain the boiler anyway. Remove the rusted leaking return pipe and use the circulator flange as a union to place a new horizontal and and new vertical pipe. Then add a boiler drain for easy service in the future

Then move the circulator to pump away from the expansion tank as indicated in this amended photograph. There is a flange union at the location of the circulator pump so to make that change easy. You might even add a set of isolation flanges for ease of service for the circulator in the future.

delcrossv

@EdTheHeaterMan "use the circulator flange as a union to place a new horizontal and and new vertical pipe."

Excellent idea! 👍 Skips the danger of trying to remove a 50 year old flange next to the boiler.

If it were me, I'd just put in a new circulator in the spot Ed recommends. The old one is probably pretty abused at this point.

Aviationguy

EdTheHeaterMan said:

You might think about this setup, if you are going to drain the boiler anyway. Remove the rusted leaking return pipe and use the circulator flange as a union to place a new horizontal and and new vertical pipe. Then add a boiler drain for easy service in the future Then move the circulator to pump away from the expansion tank as indicated in this amended photograph. There is a flange union at the location of the circulator pump so to make that change easy. You might even add a set of isolation flanges for ease of service for the circulator in the future.

Thanks for the information I will pass this along to Gerry.

Aviationguy

delcrossv said:

@EdTheHeaterMan "use the circulator flange as a union to place a new horizontal and and new vertical pipe." Excellent idea! 👍 Skips the danger of trying to remove a 50 year old flange next to the boiler. If it were me, I'd just put in a new circulator in the spot Ed recommends. The old one is probably pretty abused at this point.

I'll keep that in mind and I'll pass it along to Gerry. Once he tells me his recommendations I'll get back on here and reply so everyone can know the game plan

EdTheHeaterMan

You might also ask Gerry if the vent connector for the water heater is installed correctly. It looks like it may be pitched the wrong way... But it just might be the angle of the photo.

Aviationguy

Gentlemen unfortunately Gerry does not Service my area. Does anyone know anyone else that could help me out?

NoelAnderson

Where in Ohio do you live?

delcrossv

Aviationguy said:

Gentlemen unfortunately Gerry does not Service my area. Does anyone know anyone else that could help me out?

Did he recommend anyone?

Aviationguy

NoelAnderson said:

Where in Ohio do you live?

Springfield Ohio.

Thanks.

Aviationguy

delcrossv said:

Gentlemen unfortunately Gerry does not Service my area. Does anyone know anyone else that could help me out?

Did he recommend anyone?

Unfortunately they did not. It looks as if Gerry is pretty far from me