Mono Flo Tee

BrooklynMike

I have a 1955 home with a Mono Flo Tee system with a 1 1/4 "supply line that splits into two 1" returns with Mono Flo Tee's and regular tees supplying the baseboard radiation . The loop to the Kitchen is equivalent to 100' of 3/4 copper. The Mono Flo Tee and regular tee are 5' apart on the 1' return line. Does this provide adequate GPMs to the Kitchen? Is the pressure drop in the 100' 3/4"copper loop too high for the Mono Flo Tee to push enough water into the Kitchen baseboard radiation? Should I install a 2nd Mono Flo Tee to increase flow rate ?

Ironman

From a design standpoint, it’s way too much loop.

But the question is: does this loop actually exist and if so, does it actually work?

HomerJSmith

@Ironman, the loop length may be 100', but the radiation may be a lot shorter, under 65'. I would take the temp of the input to the first baseboard and the temp at the output of the last baseboard to get a feel for the loop. One can always size the pump for a greater GPM or increase the Supply Water Temp if you are running out of heat energy.

Is the pressure drop in the 100' 3/4"copper loop too high for the Mono Flo Tee to push enough water into the Kitchen baseboard radiation?

I wouldn't think so.
More information would be helpful.

EBEBRATT-Ed

@BrooklynMike

Your best bet is to post a sketch. If you have two tees in the main line 1 monoflow and 1 regular tee that are 5' apart and the branches from the tees including the baseboard are anywhere near 100' that is way to long. I would be surprised if you get any heat out of it.

BrooklynMike

Thank You. I have 35' of baseboard radiation in a Kitchen/Family Room of approx. 400 sq ft. The baseboard supply and return enter at the same point. I have 35' of return pipe inside the baseboard cabinet. That's 70' plus 20' of 3/4 copper in the basement and several 3/4 elbows from the Tees to the baseboard. That's how I came upon with 100'. I do get heat but the room is 2-4 degrees colder than the rest of the house. My options are: separate zone for the room; change to high output baseboard; replace the regular tee with a Monocle Tee facing opposite direction on the supply side. I also have the situation where the previous owner had two baseboard elements stuffed /jammed one on top of the other into one enclosure to try to get more heat into the kitchen for lack of we all space. I guess they did not want a kick space heater. Did do a heat loss and 35' of baseboard is just barely enough. Thanks again.

Ironman

What the delta T between the supply and return of the loop once it’s healed up?

BrooklynMike

Ironman,

Yes, want to do that and got an infrared thermometer to take readings , Thanks

HomerJSmith

Put a piece of black electrical tape on the pipe that you want to shoot and shoot that for an accurate reading.

mattmia2

The question is also how close to the needed size the other emitters on the loop are. If the other emitters are twice the output needed and this one is just matching the heat loss the other emitters are going to satisfy the thermostat and turn off the boiler before this room heats enough. You could replace the baseboard with something with more output like a panel radiator or a convector cabinet. With the panel radiator I think you would have to put a balancing valve between the tees in the main loop to adjust the split of the flow through the panel radiators because they are higher resistance.

BrooklynMike

HomerjSmith,
Thank you, That is exactly what I have to do . I was getting screwy readings from the dirty copper pipe and did use black duct tape as a test case and it is better. I need to take readings close to the baseboard not close to the 1' supply pipe where conduction can throw off the readings
mattmia12,
Thank you. I have the situation that you described so well. Room is cold because thermostat is located in warmer part of the house. My two solutions seem to be installing high output baseboard and putting this room on it's own zone & thermostat. This room is partially on a slab with limited access from the basement. Return piping is run through the baseboard enclosure back to the main loop in the basement. Baseboards are a better solution due to piping difficulties and room layout. Thanks for offering constructive suggestions.

mattmia2

If it is an addition that is built in a completely different style than the rest of the house so it has a different heat loss then a separate zone is probably the best way to go.

What are the emitters in the rest of the house? If they are cast iron radiators you will never get the 2 to balance on the same thermostat. If they are convectors or something you might make it work if you're careful.

BrooklynMike

mattmia12,
The house is a 1955 Cape Cod with baseboard radiation with steel fins in the original construction and Slant fin in the new parts. Never seen these steel fins before . I have seen seen the cast iron style and then the slant fin aluminum but not these. Don't know the manufacturer. This system needed to be bleed a lot in October 2022 after we moved in. Yes to putting the room on a separate zone & thermostat. All rooms on two floors are supplied by Mono Flo Tees in the basement with a main floor thermostat. The addition has a lot of windows and 3 outside walls and a 14' high vaulted ceiling. Since we live on the main floor , my goal is to be able to lower the heat in the unused upstairs bedrooms until needed for grandkids/guests. Thinking about valves with bypasses on the individual room emitters.

hot_rod

Keep in mind a mono flo is a series system, so fin tube at the end of the loop will see a lower supply temperature, less heat output. Any time you add or modify you change the balance and output of the last emitters.