Boiler issues

DT89

I have one zone working and one zone not working. I can hear water trying to move through the zone that isn’t working. Zone 1 light is on but boiler hasn’t kicked on unless zone 2 does it . I believe the system needs to be bleed and have water added. How do I go about doing this?

DT89

Pressure when the working zone kicks on

pecmsg

I see 1 circulator, so where are the zone valves?

DT89

There are 2 zone valves up in the ceiling taco 571-2

Steamhead

This is a hot-water system, not steam. @Erin Holohan Haskell can this be moved to the proper place?

Erin Holohan Haskell

I've moved it. Thanks @Steamhead.

hot_rod

pressure needs to be 12- 15 psi, that may be enough.
Or bleeders on the ball valves, but it will be messy purging there.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Your water pressure is to low . you need 12-15 psi on your gauge even while bleeding.

On the red air scoop above the boiler make sure the little sliver cap is loose or taken off while bleeding. Tighten it back down when done bleeding.

with the boiler shut off close the ball vale on the left side the one with the Petro tag on it. The drain valve above it hook a hose to it and run it to a drain or bucket. Open the drain valve and let the water run until you get sold water with no air bubbles.

Maintain 15 psi on the boiler at all times.

DT89

Great I’ll run home over lunch and try that out! Thanks for the help!

Intplm.

In addition to the above:

Keep this in mind while performing this purge of air from the zone.

You will be pushing the air out with the water making a circle with the water in the zone. The circle ends with the hose in the bucket purging the air.

~ Take a garden hose and install it on the boiler drain on the zone that you are purging. Red Handle.

~ Put the other end of the hose outdoors and if possible attach that end into the [bottom] of a five-gallon pail so it won't kick out and splash when you purge.

~ Turn the power off to the boiler.

~ Open the lever on the zone valve on the zone you are purging.

~ Close the valve below the now-installed garden hose. Yellow handle above the circulator.

~ Find the auto-feed valve. See the pic above. It is about the size of your fist below the circulator and next to your Honeywell control on the front of your boiler. ( It looks like a Watts brand with a metal tag.)

~ Open the red handle on the boiler drain at the garden hose.

~ Pull the little lever on the top of the auto feed valve. This will start the water flowing manually through the zone.

~ Go outdoors and look for water filling the bucket. As it fills the end of the hose at the bottom will bounce around. After a while, the end of the hose that is submerged will fill the bucket and bubbles will come to the surface. When the bubbles stop, your purge is complete.

~ Reverse all of the steps above but be sure to check your pressure so that it is at 12-15 psi. Adjust this by adding or draining water. And turn the boiler on as the last thing you do.
Go to the thermostat on the zone and turn it up all the way and listen to see how quiet the zone is.

Good luck.
Please come back and post how you did.

DT89

I think I may have a bad water pressure regulator as there’s no water entering my system

Intplm.

@DT89
When you pull up on the lever do you feel any resistance? You should. Then you should leave it in the straight-up position.

Intplm.

make sure the water is on.

DT89

There’s no resistance at all. I’m thinking it needs replaced.

Intplm.

Double check to make sure the water is on feeding the autofeed

Intplm.

if there is no resistance then the water is off to it or, as you suspect, it needs to be replaced.

Intplm.

How handy are you? This one looks like a relatively easy replacement. if it comes to that.

Intplm.

At a closer look at the picture. It looks like there is something installed on the boiler side or discharge side of the auto-feed. What is it???

Intplm.

Is it a gate valve? Is it closed?

DT89

I will double check what that is upon my return. I pulled off the pressure valve and verified that I was getting water to the valve. looks like hard water damage inside the valve. Luckily grainger has one for $50.

Intplm.

Great. And check and see what is behind the auto-feed. Something is installed there too. I cant tell what it is from the picture.

Looks like you are well on your way to fixing this.
Let us know how it all turns out.

DT89

That was is! Installed the new one and successfully bled the pipes! That for the help. I think what you saw behind there was the pump.