Digital thermostat installation questions for electric baseboard heaters with manual dials

Lnsbuffalo14

Hello. I have one TPI Corporation H2910-048SW Electric Baseboard Heater (1000 Watt, 240V, or similar, bathroom heater is smaller but same type) in each room of my 1 bed, 1 bath third floor apartment. I live in Western NY, US. 

My electric bill from National Grid last month was $192 which is *extremely* expensive for me and I'm looking for ways to use less energy while not freezing to death during winter. My last month's electricity usage was 1090 kWh. The previous month was 546 kWh.

I honestly can't tell if it's just really expensive to use the electric heat or if something is wrong with the heaters' wiring that's causing them to use so much electricity. I do not have a digital thermostat anywhere, just small manual dials on each heater in every room. I only turn the dials up like 1/4 of the way in my bedroom and living room to keep costs down, meaning my kitchen and bathroom are consistently cold (60F guessing). Like I have to microwave my butter a little bit to spread on my toast every morning; it's that cold in my kitchen. It's hard to keep the heaters off completely or the heat very low when I leave because I have two cats and I feel bad if it's too cold in here while I'm gone. 

I made a Reddit post asking for advice and someone suggested a using a digital/programmable thermostat. I read that the thermostat has to be a line-voltage one for electric baseboard heaters, so I found this one online:

https://www.honeywellstore.com/store/products/non-programmable-thermostat-line-volt-baseboard-rlv3150a1004.htm

Question #1: The 5th product image down shows the thermostat on a wall outside someone's kitchen, but the PDF manual itself says "Install the thermostat onto an electrical box" which is clearly not found on a wall outside a kitchen. Am I missing something? Where would the thermostat be installed? 

Question #2: How does the thermostat connect to the electric baseboard heater? Does it connect to the wires on the heater itself or the electrical box? 

Question #3: Do I need two thermostats for my bedroom and living room or will one thermostat connect both heaters somehow? 

Any advice or help is appreciated. Thank you! 

-LeAnna

Jamie Hall

The bad news first. If you want to maintain a space at a given temperature it is going to take a certain amount of heat to do that -- measured in BTUh, or in kilowatts. There is no way around that. Further, there is nothing in the wiring of a resistance type electric heater which will make it use less power (read: money) to put out a certain amount of heat, various advertising blurbs notwithstanding.

So... the only way you can save on electricity with your electric heat is to reduce the power required, and the way to do that is to reduce the heat needed -- run the space cooler or add insulation.

Physics is a b___h.

You could use a better thermostat. It would give you more control -- but wouldn't save any money.

With reference to that enclosure box. Yes, you need one. You are dealing with your regular 120 volt house current, and that needs to be wired to code.

jesmed1

There's nothing you can do about the source or cost of your heat. But there is probably something you can do about using less of it to stay warm. The #1 source of heat loss in residences is typicall air infiltration through leaky windows, etc. Here are some things you can do to find your cold air leaks and stop them:

1. Get a cheap infrared thermometer and scan around the edges of your windows. You'll be surprised at how cold they are. The lowest temperature areas will be where you have the worst air leaks.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Backlight-58℉-932℉-50℃-500℃-Temperature/dp/B0BN317X6Z/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=infrared+thermometer&qid=1702480606&sr=8-8

2. Temporarily seal your windows closed for the winter. You can do that either by applying a temporary caulk around all the gaps. The special caulk is designed for this purpose and can be peeled away in the spring. Beware that it can cause the paint to chip when peeling off.
https://www.amazon.com/18354-Seal-Removable-Caulk-10-1-Ounce/dp/B001QFZS6E/ref=sr_1_1?hvadid=174251947578&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001965&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14061139907415591109&hvtargid=kwd-2206306868&hydadcr=8433_9618934&keywords=dap+seal+and+peel&qid=1702480859&sr=8-1&th=1

3. Or install these plastic sheets over your windows. Also designed to prevent heat loss in winter and be removed in spring.
https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-V73-9H-42-Inch/dp/B000AXSVJ4/ref=sr_1_4?crid=17ANXV3ZX1MAS&keywords=window+plastic+for+winterizing&qid=1702480920&s=hi&sprefix=window,tools,126&sr=1-4&th=1

4. Make your own insulated window quilts.
https://www.sage-urban-homesteading.com/window-quilts.html

If your windows are very leaky, sealing/insulating them can make a big difference.

EBEBRATT-Ed

The baseboard mounted thermostat are not very accurate at controlling room temps. I would do as @jesmed1 mentioned to try and stop some heat loss and drafts.

You could install the digital wall mounted stats but this would require some rewiring by an electrician and will probably cost more than the energy saved.

Make sure the electric baseboard finned elements are clean and not blocked bu dust, dirt drapes or furniture etc.