Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Steam Main Vent Locations

I am working to install main vents on my one pipe steam system. I know that I need to install the vents at least "15 inches away from the drop into the wet return and 10" up from the pipe.

I have 3, 1" returns with unions on each of the lines so I can work my way up the pipe, thread it for a T, and build a venting branch off each of those pipes fairly pain free. What would be even more pain free, however, is if I could take out the 1" plugs at the top of each return where it drops into the wet return piping and branch out from there. Can I remove those plugs, install a nipple, 90, and run a secondary pipe that would go 16"-18" away from that drop? Would that work as an alternative to cutting into the return's old pipes? If so, can this pipe double back on the dry return or does it need to be in line with it and run in the same direction?



Comments

  • Intplm.
    Intplm. Member Posts: 2,217
    The pictured plugs in the tees can be removed and install vents there. I've done it in that place before and it worked nicely.
    How are the vents on the radiators?
    Mad Dog_2
  • Brycewvu
    Brycewvu Member Posts: 38
    I was hoping that was the case. For installation, does it matter if the pipe doubles back on itself or does it need to stay in line with the return? Also, should I install new Ts and plugs for cleanout/flushing purposes or does that not matter?



  • Brycewvu
    Brycewvu Member Posts: 38
    I bought this house last year and after diving into the world of steam heat, I have realized that the previous owner/contractor did not know what they were doing with steam heat which resulted in a very inefficient/oil thirsty system to run. I installed a smart thermostat last January in an effort to start making things more wallet friendly.

    The radiator vents are in ok shape. Each radiator has old Hoffman 1A vents. I just replaced the vent on the living room radiator (closest to the radiator and same room as the thermostat) with a Ventrite #11. Once I install main vents, I want to work on replacing all the other vents since they probably have some age to them. Some of the vents used to hiss a decent amount, but I realized that the pressuretrol was set to 8psi and recently changed that to .5 so that may have caused the hissing. I have heard good things about both Gotons and Ventrite #1s.
    Mad Dog_2
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,590
    Gortons are the best for main vents but cost$$$

    You can put the vents in the plugged tee connections although some distance away from the tee is better as you mentioned.

    If you need to double back on the pipe you can but whatever you do make sure any pipe or nipples are arranged so any water that gets in the vent extension can drain back into the plugged tee.

    I like to raise the vents as high as reasonably possible. It helps to keep the water out

    And no you don't need any plugged tees for cleanouts it's just as easy to take the vents off.

    Mad Dog_2ethicalpaul
  • Brycewvu
    Brycewvu Member Posts: 38
    I think I am going to use Gortons for the main vents since I've heard they are top of the list for everyone. The price difference will be worth it if it means I won't have to replace it any time soon. I am in the process of measuring and calculating which vent I should use. I am using the the "Venting Steam Systems Using a Venting Capacity Chart" paper that is on here and will probably go with either a single Gorton #1 or a pair of Gorton #2 vents depending on the capacity I need.

    I should have the vents as high as possible even if it is beyond that 10" height?

    For the pipe angle, should I look at using 2 90s and a short nipple close together to allow me to angle the pipe up or is that unnecessary?
    Mad Dog_2
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,544
    Work with those existing plugged tees, Gorton & Hoffman are more $$ but you won't be replacing them for many years unlike the Ersatz knock offs.  Il'l usually try to use a two-elbow swing on my main vent 
    Batteries, so They always have a Little pitch so condensate call roll back from whence it came and not pound the main vent every time The Steam comes up. Mad Dog 🐕 
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,815
    will probably go with either a single Gorton #1 or a pair of Gorton #2 

    You might mean a single #2 or a pair of smaller #1

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    Mad Dog_2
  • Brycewvu
    Brycewvu Member Posts: 38

    will probably go with either a single Gorton #1 or a pair of Gorton #2 

    You might mean a single #2 or a pair of smaller #1
    Yes, you are correct. I didnt have the chart in front of me haha. Good catch!

    On the air vents, can I run them in series straight down the pipe or do I have to branch off and have 1 on each side of a T?
    reggi
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,544
    It doesn't really matter, but use the largest size 
    Pipe you can...In other words, instead of using all 1/2" , use 3/4" x 1/2" Tees or 1" x 1/2" tees for better expulsion of the air.  Ill attach an example.   Mad Dog 🐕 
    Intplm.
  • Brycewvu
    Brycewvu Member Posts: 38
    I was planning to use 1" pipe to match the returns and use a bushing at the very end to either 3/4" or 1/2" to make sure I get the largest venting possible.
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,590
    @Brycewvu

    Just raise the vents don't put them on short nipples. get them above the main helps keep the water out.

    If you go straight up and hit an obstruction, you can offset with 90s but 45s are better so any water will drain
  • gfrbrookline
    gfrbrookline Member Posts: 753
    Since you have three returns in such close proximity you can use a few 45 degree couplings to give you enough space to install G2's, 2 per return plus nipples to give you the space to spin the vent.
  • Brycewvu
    Brycewvu Member Posts: 38
    When I install new pipes for the main vents, should I use a cleaner on the iron pipes to try and reduce the amount of oils that will need to be skimmed? Would an degreaser or brake cleaner spray be a good idea or is it not worth the effort?
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,815
    edited November 2023
    Don't go crazy with the pipes...the vent is way less capacity than the pipe. Reducing it just before the vent gets you nothing but more expense. You're not going to have 100 vents on there like Mad Dog did :sweat_smile:

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • Waher
    Waher Member Posts: 303
    edited December 2023
    Brycewvu said:

    When I install new pipes for the main vents, should I use a cleaner on the iron pipes to try and reduce the amount of oils that will need to be skimmed? Would an degreaser or brake cleaner spray be a good idea or is it not worth the effort?

    Dawn dish detergent. Wash and rinse the pipes thoroughly and then dry with a disposable rag prior to installing.

    Brake cleaner can release deadly phosgene gas under certain conditions and should only be used for cleaning actual brakes according to the directions on the can.
  • Brycewvu
    Brycewvu Member Posts: 38
    Good to know!