White Rodgers zone valve

lincks

I have a boiler zone valve that when the thermostat calls the valve just spin and doesn't stop on the open valve to hold. Its a 3 zone system. I've switched the motors to see if it was a bad one. And a new thermostat. Voltage is good. And there is no short in the wire. What would causethis.

hot_rod

There is a small warp switch inside that is supposed to stop the valve at specific positions. Those fail. Sounds like you need a new powerhead. If multiple zones do the same, it is a wiring issue.

lincks

That's why I moved one of the zone power heads motors to see if that was it. It did the same. Keeper turning. I checked the wire coming from the stat and the not shorted together. I'm getting the 27 volts the system needs. The other 2 valve motors or so e don't do this. That's why I'm stumped. Figured some body might have some insight as to what may cause this weird thing to happen.

hot_rod

Try a third motor swap just 
for grins. If it revolves constantly either the power supply or a wiring glitch. Are you sure the wires are connected properly?

lincks

I have never had to take the wire off the motors. It has run fine for 15 yrs till last winter then this has showed up. I was going to try another motor swap but that motor doesn't have the spade connections its a push in type hookup. I have thought of moving the wire from another stat and see if it still does it.

hot_rod

My experience with that valve is it is not a repairable condition, maybe just buy a new one.

I don’t know what could fail in the thermostat to cause that, or the wiring. It is always the internal switch

You need to try something?

https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/White Rodgers - 1311-102 - Install Instructions.pdf

lincks

Well I have tried a new motor. Switched with a different zone thermostat. Did find some mice chewing on the stat wire. Changed that. And still that zone just keeps turning. The wife did look up and said that the next only thing could be the relay in the boiler itself. Now this is a well Mclain vhe5 1983 model. And this relay turns on the exhaust blower and the water pump.

hot_rod

lincks said:

Well I have tried a new motor. Switched with a different zone thermostat. Did find some mice chewing on the stat wire. Changed that. And still that zone just keeps turning. The wife did look up and said that the next only thing could be the relay in the boiler itself. Now this is a well Mclain vhe5 1983 model. And this relay turns on the exhaust blower and the water pump.

Usually it is the zone valve that call on the boiler via the TT connection on the boiler. I don't see how the boiler control could cause the problem.

What model is the valve?

Do you have a volt meter to read where 24V appears with the stat on and the stat off?

Does White Rogers have a tech support phone, e-mail or TXT?

They claim to have a 24/7 tech support number and e-mail. You will want to have a volt meter in hand when you call. Not much troubleshooting you can do without a meter.

Just part swapping, as you already know

https://www.copeland.com/en-us/brands/white-rodgers/customer-support

lincks

Ya getting good volts at transformer stat and valve

EdTheHeaterMan

@lincks, I have an idea.
First Question. When you swapped the motors "That's why I moved one of the zone power heads motors to see if that was it." did you change anything else? Like the wires. The reason I asked is that you said this: "I have never had to take the wire off the motors."

Second Question When you swap motors, what did the same thing? The valve that kept turning or the other valve where you moved the motor to?

Third QuestionDoes this valve keep spinning when the thermostat calls for heat, or when there is no call for heat? OR ...the thermostat does not matter, the valve motor just spins all the time.

the answers to these three questions may help me diagnose the issue

lincks

Yes when I swapped .the motor I changed the wire to match that zone.

2. That zone. Ill call it zone #1. I used zone 2 motor in zone 1. I found the old zone motors and used one of them too. In zone 1 position.

3 yes keeps turning spinning when it calls for heat. And I've even just tried to swap the stat from diffrent zone to see what it would do. But not change the interconnect wiring. Just the stat wire. It a 3 zone system. Same that zone #1 will just turn.

yesterday after all th motor checking stat swapping. I went through and did a zone wire check just to make sure that I have all the wires in the correct spaces. Good there.

Being that this is a 1983 model. And I'm getting ready to maybe sell the wife seems to think just buy a new boiler. The me thing is if it don't leak why change it type of thing. But I think I am being out voted. And will spend 3000$ and 2 days changing the boiler out. While on vacation after thanks giving. Just for the resell value.

Jamie Hall

I hate to contradict a wife. Never a good idea. However, swapping the boiler isn't going to help your problem with the zone valve. Usually there is a limit switch in the mechanism which cuts power to the motor when it reaches open or closed. If there is -- and I think this has been mentioned -- that switch is shot, and it's not likely to be repairable.

hot_rod

Maybe just upgrade the zone valves if the boiler is in good condition?

lincks

Well one of the thoughts is if the #1 valve is the one showing the problem by just turning. Could it be caused by one of the other zones having the bad switch. Or is the interconnection between them just power and that's all.
Ya the boiler it self is fine. Just a little rusty on top of the box.

Now I do have 2 spare motors I could see if changing out the other motors makes it go away.

MarieThomas

Any update?

EricPeterson

@lincks - I presume these are 2-wire valves?
I have three of them in my system that have been in operation for 30+ years.
I also have a spare.
These are all "Zone-A-Flow" TYPE 1361-104, 1-1/4".

Have you hooked up the misbehaving valve on the bench to power and then simulated a call for heat?
That should indicate whether the valve is working correctly or not.
When I get some time I am going to try that experiment on my spare valve.
Per my instruction sheet:

1. Hook up contact #1 and #2 to 24V.
   
2. Simulate call for heat by connecting contact#2 to #4.
   
3. Valve should then rotate to the "open" position.
   
4. Break the connection between #2 and #4.
   
5. The valve should then rotate to the "closed" position.
   

Eric Peterson