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Steam Radiator Valve

Hi - I have 2 of this style valve on my radiators. One is missing the guts completely and other doesn’t seem to work right. I was wondering if there was any new inserts out there that would work or if I have to install new valves completely? I have a 2 pipe steam system. Thanks in advance  

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,609
    If the guts are missing completely, you probably would need a new valve -- which is a hassle, since you also need to put a new matching spud into the radiator.

    However... do you really need the valve guts? On one pipe steam, which this looks like, the only reason the valve is there is to shut off the radiator in case you need to remove it and steam is being produced. Otherwise, the valve should be open anyway, all the time. Control the radiator with the vent, not the valve.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,473
    Or Replace with  Hoffman Right Angle shut off.  Mad Dog 🐕 
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,783
    edited October 2023
    What's wrong with the one you have the guts for? You can replace that washer and free up the rest if there isnt any thing actually broken.

    Contact tunstall to see if they have a kit to put new guts in the other one.
    iOneMad Dog_2Intplm.
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,301
    The OP said it is two pipe steam. What is on the other end of the rad can you post a picture of that? You probably have to replace the valve and the spud in the radiator.


    Am I the only one or does that valve look more like a trap than a valve.???
    Mad Dog_2
  • iOne
    iOne Member Posts: 4
    To the OP: a wide area photo would help a lot.
  • Cyclone33
    Cyclone33 Member Posts: 27
    Most of the radiators in my house are the trane vapor system. My concern with these 2 radiators is I don’t believe there is a trap or orifice or the return side of radiator. The others all show trane on the side of the 90 fitting. Thinking these might have been added later. The temperature of the return pipe and radiator seem equal and I think I am getting too much steam out my main vent. So maybe on to something with a trap valve? Here is a picture. 


    mattmia2
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,783
    edited October 2023
    Oh, the original post is missing critical information, that is a baseboard radiator and it is a vapor system. even though you said 2 pipe i thought 1 pipe because the valve was at the floor.

    That is a metering valve and it is set in combination with the vaporstat on the boiler to limit the amount of steam let in to the radiator to the amount that the radiator can condense so the steam all condenses in the radiator and doesn't get in to the returns. The maximum amount those valves can open is adjustable.

    If you replace it with a standard valve you need to put an orifice plate in the inlet valve union to limit the amount of steam that is let in to the radiator. Since this is a vapor valve it is more likely that tunstall has a kit to replace the guts in these (although I would get the one you do have the guts for working if at all possible).
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,783
    edited October 2023
    @Gordo has some videos on rebuilding some of the hoffman vapor valves.

    edit: er i guess they are probably trane. i feel i've seen a video of gordo taking those apart, i remember the packless diaphragm and the 4 arms.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,783
    edited October 2023
    Gordo's video. i think you have the second type

    https://youtu.be/irnsxLiDBss
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,609
    Ah I missed that. You do need the valve -- and most likely an orifice to control flow as noted above.

    You also need to make sure your boiler pressure settings are correct: the cutout -- shut off pressure -- must be no higher than 8 OUNCES per square inch. (Cutin typically around 4 ounces). You must use a vapourstat to do that. The regular pressuretrols can't achieve that level of control.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,473
    Looked like a Trap with the cap off   mad Dog 🐕 
  • Cyclone33
    Cyclone33 Member Posts: 27
    Thanks. That video really help. I think I found parts to fix the 1 I have. I can’t seem to find a rebuild kit anywhere for the other. Any advice? Do I just install an orifice in the radiator? Do I plug that pipe somehow? Any information is appreciated! 

    I do have a vaporstat. Settings similar to what you mentioned above. I also have the Gorton #2 vents. 3 on mainline and 1 on an accumulator thing. 
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,609
    Don't plug the pipe! Reinstall the gutted valve, but with an orifice to control steam flow. It's a lot easort yp start with too small a hole and drill it larger if needed...
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    mattmia2
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,783
    Ask tunstall if they have a kit that fits it, they don't have most of that sort of stuff listed on their web site, you have to contact them:
    https://tunstall-inc.com/contact-us/
    Intplm.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,783
    It looks like there are a number of trane vapor valves on ebay too.
  • Cyclone33
    Cyclone33 Member Posts: 27
    Thanks for all the help and pointing me in the right direction!