What do I need to know re getting a new oil tank?

Freedom

I live in the house my folks built before I was born. Oil tank is original, 1956. New boiler went in 2000. At the annual cleaning of the boiler earlier today, the Tech advised that I have a small leak on the oil tank. Will be getting an estimate from the oil delivery company.

I read some threads, I see folks get multiple quotes. Who do I call for other pricing? I mean, an oil company where I am not the customer, I can't imagine it will be a better price.

I read about double wall, steel, fiberglass, not sure what factors I need to consider. I told the company I have, that I want this same tank; first one lasted 67 years, that works fine for me. But the Owner wants to come out and check everything prior to finalizing the estimate.

I have a 225 gallon tank.




The Tech put that dish in place earlier today.


Boiler, new install 2000.

The resideo control box is new last month, old one died.


And the fill pipe outside.

EBEBRATT-Ed

You can go with the same tank or you can go with the Roth ss double wall tank. How long you stay in the house may figure into the decision.

Most tank mfgs do not recommend putting the old oil in a new tank, so you may want to burn it down before the swap. Some transfer the old oil some don't,

jesmed1

"I read some threads, I see folks get multiple quotes. Who do I call for other pricing? I mean, an oil company where I am not the customer, I can't imagine it will be a better price."

You'd be surprised. We replaced our 275 gallon tanks a few years ago. We got several quotes from different oil companies. Our own oil company was not the least expensive. We found another local oil company who gave us a lower estimate and did a good install.

I recommend the Granby single wall steel oil tanks. We got two 275 gallons. But they also make 220-240 gallon sizes.They'll last you another 50-60 years. Don't bother with double-wall and polyurethane coatings, etc, unless you plan on being in the house another 50 years.

random12345

Where are you located? I'm not a pro, just a homeowner, but live in the Boston area. Your boiler is 23 years old. I would make sure it's not leaking and in good condition first. It probably won't last longer than 10-15 years at most. I have the same ones also installed in 2001 but with a Beckett AFG instead of Carlin burner like yours. If you decide to replace the tank, I don't think the new one should be installed the same way. It needs at least several inches of clearance from the walls. One of our old tanks is flush with the foundation like yours appears to be, and below a basement window. When it rains, guess what happens? Water leaks in around the window and drips on the tank. Lots of rust. You are lucky that didn't happen in your case. Also, you need room to be able to inspect all the sides of the tank, and you can't do that at all in your case. The vent pipe looks too short to me, but maybe you don't get a lot of snow? The least expensive option will be a Granby 220 most likely, but 275 might be less since they seem more common. The 220 has thinner 12 ga steel vs 10 ga for the 275. I use Fuel Right to prevent corrosion.

EdTheHeaterMan

I used to do service calls for several oil companies in my area. Some smaller oil dealers do not have enough customers to keep a full time service technician on the payroll. All they want to do is sell the oil. That means they depend on a guy like me, that does not sell oil, to be on call for their customers. I'm sure there are more than one oil dealer that has a sub contractor or a "Go To" company to keep their customer's heaters running. If you call around, yopu will be surprised how many companies will be happy to sell you a new tank.

@seized123 has been researching replacing his oil tank for over 6 months. @seized123 has asked more questions on fuel lines, type of tank, fuel deaerators, oil filters, and what are the Code Requirements, than anyone has ever asked in my entire 45 years as a burner service technician. I have (along with multiple other contributers) have answered all those queries, so I believe he is now the go to guy on Heating Help for oil tank answers . LOL

But as far as your tank choice, The steel tank is a tank that requires maintenance that includes a fresh coat of paint every 3 to 5 years. But no one does that. So the epoxy coating on a steel tank is something to think about. Since your tank is in the basement, you may not need painting as often so maybe the lower cost tank will be acceptable. Your basement tank lasted over 50 years, you should be able to get another 40 to 50 years from a new one.

If there is no way you will ever have a different fuel option, then get a new tank that will be the last one you need to buy. Steel tank with primer only has a 10 year warranty. the coated tanks have 15 or 20 year warranty. The Roth or Granby double wall plastic tank in a galvanized tank has the longest warranty. Shop around, you may find a better price than your fuel dealer

jesmed1

random12345 said:

The least expensive option will be a Granby 220 most likely, but 275 might be less since they seem more common. The 220 has thinner 12 ga steel vs 10 ga for the 275. I use Fuel Right to prevent corrosion.

The Granby 275 comes in either 12 gauge or 10 gauge. The 275's we got recently were 12-gauge. I'm assuming they're less expensive than the thicker 10 gauge.

EdTheHeaterMan

Back when I started this work, the basement oil tanks available were 14 gauge for indoor use and 12 gauge for outdoor use. No one makes 14 gauge tanks anymore. Since your tank is installed in the basement, and it is so old, @Freedom may have a 14 gauge... so anything he purchases today will be an upgrade.

random12345

@jesmed1 and @EdTheHeaterMan Interesting. Looks like the vertical 12 gauge 275 tanks are listed under UL-142 and UL-80 while the 10 gauge is only under UL-80. https://granbyindustries.com/en-us/petroleum-tanks/products/standard/

STEVEusaPA

-Double wall Roth tank is (should be) the same price as a single walled steel tank. It’s actually a little cheaper. And you might save a little on homeowners insurance. There’s really no downside.
-All new supply/return piping.
-New double filtration, OSV, properly installed firomatics, all to code.
-NO transfer of old oil. I don’t care how many times they’ll claim they filter it or that 'they do it all the time'. It may not become a problem, but if it does, it’ll be a giant PIA.
You might get a better price from a company that just does oil tanks.
Also, that QB 180 is obsolete. Most of the parts are universal, but there are some very important parts that are not. If they go, you could be buying a new burner at the most inconvenient time.

Stack316

Going through a tank replacement and oil boiler replacement now too. Had 4 larger oil companies stop by 3 gave quotes not sure what happened with the 4th. My current oil co. Was the most expensive and wanted to perform the least amount of work. The last co wants me to switch to them for oil but also quoted a Roth tank cheaper than the other 2 whom wanted to use a steel tank.
The Roth will stand taller than my current tank so they will need to cut new pipes to the outside.
One co. Wanted to use the existing under ground oil line from tank to boiler which was at code already.

So yes search for local oil companies, ask your towns Facebook page for references use the list of contractors on this website for alternatives.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Since the underground oil line to the burner is a coated line there is no reason not to use it. @STEVEusaPA looks like a Carlin burner to me

MaxMercy

If you're handy, install one yourself. What I did was get one from Home Despot. With the delivery charge (driveway), leg kit, and new Firomatic valve, filter housing, and couplings, I was in about $1200 for parts. The tank was built in Canada. Fortunately, my basement is walk in so I was able to use a handtruck with a buddy and just walk it in. I used dresser style couplers for the black pipe. I had a local scrapper remove the empty tank for $100.

As far as installed prices (that we can't discuss), you should call local plumbers and ask if they do that work. Not only is replacing a tank not rocket science, it's easier than most jobs other than the crud of moving an old tank. They might get you a better price than an oil delivery company. If you belong to your town's FB page, you can post and ask if anyone knows a local guy who can install a tank for you.

I would not ask other oil companies unless you are thinking about changing your delivery service.

STEVEusaPA

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

Since the underground oil line to the burner is a coated line there is no reason not to use it. @STEVEusaPA looks like a Carlin burner to me

You're right. I just looked at the overhead pic with that transformer and thought QB.

Freedom

Hey everyone, thank you for all the posts.

I want to apologize. I thought I had my account set up to notify me when a comment posts. I had no emails and figured folks were enjoying the long weekend. Just looked, I had not checked the box for email. Got that done, now. Sorry if it seems I was not responding; I thought no comments had been made.

@MaxMercy this is not a DIY job, not for me. Single female, mid-60's, no walk in access to the cellar.

@EBEBRATT-Ed Burning it down, that's going to be the challenge. They just filled the tank the day before the cleaning. It is mid 80's here, I won't be using heat until October. I will get more info from the Owner when he comes in, as to how quickly this has to be done. The Tech who was here on Friday said it may last, or the bottom may drop out tomorrow, just no way to tell. Yikes!

@jesmed1 That's one thing I needed to know; I can call other delivery companies for estimates. Thanks.
Also, if I am in this house another 50 years, I'll be in the running for oldest human, ha haaa.

@STEVEusaPA you mention "a company that just does oil tanks." What is that called, how do I find one to call for estimate? All new supply / return piping, new double filtration, OSV, QB 180 is obsolete (but I think @EBEBRATT-Ed said something that made you change your mind on this), are you just explaining the things I should see in the written contract? Because I have no clue what all this means. I was hoping to leave it to the experts.

The boiler you see, was put in by the oil delivery company I use, back in 2000. They also put in the original boiler in 1956, but that went in by crane, during construction. It was cast iron, they had to cut it into 3 pieces to get it out (no direct cellar access, you go up the stairs into the living room). The old Owner (grandfather of the current owner) was still alive, he came in to look, he called all the employees in to see it, said they may never have the chance to see one ever again, lol. Dad did use a different delivery company for about 30 years, when that man retired and shut down, went back to this company, and I have carried on with them. There is longevity with this oil delivery company.

@EdTheHeaterMan The oil delivery company I use, they have their own techs, they do heating / hvac / plumbing work as well. About painting -- I bet my Dad did that over the years. I did not know anything about that. I can say for sure this tank has not been painted since 2000. How much before then, no idea. Darn, if I knew and had that done, I may not be in this predicament now! I surely do not want to deal with this again in my lifetime, I got confused if you suggest I get a coated steel tank, or a double wall. I like the 15 to 20 warranty that would suit me fine. I will go search @seized123 to learn, thank you for the suggestion; but I anticipate it will all be Greek to me. And, to answer your question, no I do not have any other fuel option. There is no gas on my road, nor on the connecting road, so natural gas is out. Propane, next door neighbor converted to that years ago, and then was sorry he did (though I do not recall why). I do have 2 heat pumps which are part of the mini split a/c units, I have never turned them on for heating. Those are up at ceiling level, not sure how the heat would ever get down to floor level.

@random12345 I have no clue what the UL info is, do I have to learn about that? You asked where I am located, northeast of Boston, on the Salem NH line.

@Stack316 you mentioned re new pipes to the outside. Oh lordy, new siding (2015) and new concrete patio (2016 if those 2 pipes (the one they put the oil in, and the whistle thingie) have to be replaced, it is going to be a problem. I don't think they can be removed without damaging / ruining things. But I expect to get lots of info and have a better understanding once the Owner of my current company has come out, looked and things, and talked to me about what has to be done.


I think I answered everybody! If I missed someone, apologies.

So a Granby 220 steel 10 gauge coated tank with a 15 to 20 year warranty would be my best option, if I read the comments right. I should see about a better bucket to catch what drips, and hold off the job until the tank is emptier. I should not let them put any of the old oil back in to the new tank -- do I get credit for the oil they siphon out and do not put back in my tank??? That would be a help.

Going to ask for recommendations in my community group page, see what shows up. My city's group is not very active, often folks ask for recommendations and get no replies at all. Thanks much, every body.

pecmsg

Contact your insurance company / agent and ask if there's any reduction for a newer spill proof tank. Most companies offer them.

Freedom

@pecmsg that is a nice idea, I will do that, thank you.

The Owner was just here, taking measurements. I may not have many options. I likely won't be doing all the "get 3 estimates, due diligence, consider various factors."

He said it is clear this tank was also put in by crane, during construction, as there is no easy way to get a new tank in. They can cut this existing tank in pieces to get it out so that is not a problem, but getting a new tank in is going to be challenging. There is a funny jog getting from the living room to the cellar stairs, the fireplace hearth is also in the way. I will add a photo. You can see the fireplace hearth, lower right.




He checked the area outdoors, all around the house, then back to doing measurements. Doors will have to come off hinges, cellar stair railing will have to be removed (and replaced), and still I will have to get a smaller tank than what I have now.

Further, he said they will be up either this afternoon or tomorrow morning to siphon off and relieve the pressure. The tank has had it.

He said from the file, his grandfather did the original install boiler and tank. His father did the new boiler, in 2000. Now he gets to figure it out.

Freedom

Well, I found one other place to call, the soonest they can send someone to look, take measurements, is the 20th. Today is the 5th. Not going to work. Not having much luck finding places to call.

MaxMercy

Have you tried local social media and asked for recommendations of local independent plumbers? Almost certainly, they are going to be cheaper than an oil company and probably more available time-wise.

You might also consider putting a SS double wall tank outside the house if you're not in too extreme a climate.

Finally, you might consider a propane conversion (with the tank outside - temperature not being an issue for propane). I think Carlin makes a good reliable gas burner that will drop in as a replacement for your WM boiler although I'd defer to any actual experience by professionals (of which I am not) as to the Carlin burner.

https://carlincombustion.com/products/ezgas-pro-residential-gas-burner/

random12345

Tanks-a-lot. Talk to Jay Holmes. Or Commtank if he's not available.
https://tanksalotremoval.com/tanks/
https://commtank.com/

seized123

Hah, @EdTheHeaterMan, if you think I've already asked a lot of questions, the worst might be yet to come! But @Freedom, he's right, if there were a question limit on this forum I'd be banned for life.

Actually my tank's been okay and that hasn't been one of my issues, so I can't share any experience about that. (For what it's worth from a non-pro ignoramus, if I had to decide at this second what to get it would probably be a Roth, because my own orientation is safety against spills above all, and I like the double-tank thing.)

To save you time I'll say there is no more useful specific information in this post, but if you are still reading, my advice is now that you've discovered this forum even if you are not going to do any DIY work yourself, if you have any questions regarding your system - that old boiler is not going to last forever - ask here, because the people here are very generous with their knowledge (which is how it should be) and the techs you have out there may not be as up to speed as one would hope, although I think the professional requirements in Mass. might be more stringent than where I live.

I have exactly the same boiler as you, and it's the same age, and my odyssey began when I posted a photo of something I was concerned about (flue piping) and it was pointed out on this forum that not only was that not correct, but the piping to my boiler was screwy. I began to learn more about oil and piping and code mostly thanks to this forum and when I had three different techs out to look at my system all three were clueless about some pretty serious code violations (permits and inspections are generally not required here). My knowledge needs are different from yours because that experience and general interest led me to want to do as much of this as I can myself even though a few weeks ago I didn't know a flare nut from a peanut, and that's a whole different deal because if you've never done any of this before there are so many details and requirements and nuances that these guys take for granted due to their decades of experience, and at every step you reach another roadblock of your own ignorance, and I don't personally have any plumbing/HVAC friends or acquaintances I can bother. If you aren't going to do stuff yourself (you could, you know, I'm in my late sixties with the heating experience of a chipmunk, and though the learning curve is no cakewalk, there are lots of resources especially this forum) you may not need to ask at quite such a level of detail, but knowledge is power even when you are hiring others. So I say unless you are lucky enough to have found a tech you trust absolutely if you have any questions about your system or what they want to do, ask these guys first. Even with all their experience they don't always agree, which just shows how complicated and evolving this field can be, but you will have a body of knowledge and opinion to sort through.

Freedom

Well. The team will be here in half an hour to set up an outside standby tank and to siphon out all but about 20 gallons. This will relieve the pressure on the tank. The permitting process has started, city, EPA (not sure if that is state or federal), tank swap happens next Monday.

Granby 220 will go in. That is the only tank he could find that will fit all the doors, tight corner etc. He said it has the double wall floor same as what is in here now.

Correction, the team is here, and working.

@MaxMercy a tank outside will not work, there is just no place to put it. The owner walked all around the house this morning trying to figure that out. Can't be done.

I'm not interested in a propane conversion, but thank you.

I did post and ask on social media, only got that one referral, and he couldn't come out to look at the job until the 20th.

Oops, gotta go, they are drilling something!

Freedom

What it looks like on the bottom just now:

Freedom

225 GALLON, 12 GAUGE @EdTheHeaterMan You thought maybe it was a 14 gauge, due to the age.

EBEBRATT-Ed

@Freedom

Granby also makes 120 gallon tanks and 138 gallon tank. They are smaller so you could put 2 of those in if your in a bind 2 x 120 or 2x 138

Freedom

Thank you. I don't feel like I had any options in this situation. I guess that's home ownership, sometimes.

pecmsg

NO

you have a lot of options!
replace the existing tank. You need another opinion. 
get a smaller one or 2 smaller ones
Roth Tank
and many more options. 

Keep looking. 

Big Ed_4

Why that tank lasted that long was because it was pitched to the valve . Keep the pitch with the new tank . New tank new oil ...

ChrisJ

pecmsg said:

NO

you have a lot of options!
replace the existing tank. You need another opinion. 
get a smaller one or 2 smaller ones
Roth Tank
and many more options. 

Keep looking. 

I think that was over 6 hours ago.

Freedom

Big Ed_4 said:

Why that tank lasted that long was because it was pitched to the valve . Keep the pitch with the new tank . New tank new oil ...

Pitched to "the valve." What / where is the valve of which you speak?

And thank you @ChrisJ, spot on. "That was 6 hours ago." That's why I tried so hard to reach someone else early this morning. I knew the situation was not good and things would move quickly. I just couldn't manage it. Oh well. At least I trust the company I am dealing with.

EdTheHeaterMan

I am guessing that the job is near done by now. Let us see if they did it correctly.

The tank is not supposed to be level. The lower side of the tank should be where the bottom tank valve is located. Usually where the oil pipe connects to go to the burner.

The did not use any oil from the old tank to put into the new tank.

Any new oil pipe from the tank to the burner should be enclosed in some type of coating, or sleeve that will prevent oil from leaking from a failed copper tube that might be hidden in a place you can't see. if a leak happens in the place you can't see (like under the floor) the sleeve will let you see the oil leak at one end or the other. Is the copper pipe bare or covered?

Is there a new oil filter or at least a new filter refill?

Is there a Firomatic valve near the burner?

If you don't know the answers to these questions, then ask the installers. Post the answers here, and don't pay in full until after you are satisfied that it was done correctly

Freedom

@EdTheHeaterMan the standby tank is set up, the siphon job is done. The new tank goes in next Monday. They have to wait for all the permits. My City does NOT issue same-day permits, and most permits take a week to be approved. The photos I posted above, showing the bottom of the tank, justify them doing the siphon job before the permits come through, to relieve the pressure on the tank bottom, and to reduce the amount of spill, if there is any. This work comes under addressing emergencies.

I did talk to them about putting the oil back in the new tank. They said this is fine when a professional is doing it. They said that the statement in the Granby manual is to stop homeowners and DIY folks, as the manufacturers do not want sludge picked up from the old tank and then put in the new tank. They showed me how they were siphoning, to prevent any sludge being collected. Plus they had to leave oil in so that I have hot water through next Monday. I hadn't even done laundry yet, so I need hot water for the next 6 days. I will still lost 15 to 20 gallons of oil, when this is all done.

I'm not happy about it, and I may still insist on fresh oil going in the new tank. But for now the 'old' oil is sitting in the standby tank on my front patio.

I didn't even know there is a filter in this, somewhere. I will be sure to ask all these questions when they do the work next Monday. I seem to remember hearing "Firomatic" being discussed when I had the Fire Marshall in, before I moved back into this house, May of 2015. I can't recall if I had one or if I had this oil company stop in and set it up, but I know that is ok.

ChrisJ

Freedom said:

@EdTheHeaterMan the standby tank is set up, the siphon job is done. The new tank goes in next Monday. They have to wait for all the permits. My City does NOT issue same-day permits, and most permits take a week to be approved. The photos I posted above, showing the bottom of the tank, justify them doing the siphon job before the permits come through, to relieve the pressure on the tank bottom, and to reduce the amount of spill, if there is any. This work comes under addressing emergencies. I did talk to them about putting the oil back in the new tank. They said this is fine when a professional is doing it. They said that the statement in the Granby manual is to stop homeowners and DIY folks, as the manufacturers do not want sludge picked up from the old tank and then put in the new tank. They showed me how they were siphoning, to prevent any sludge being collected. Plus they had to leave oil in so that I have hot water through next Monday. I hadn't even done laundry yet, so I need hot water for the next 6 days. I will still lost 15 to 20 gallons of oil, when this is all done. I'm not happy about it, and I may still insist on fresh oil going in the new tank. But for now the 'old' oil is sitting in the standby tank on my front patio. I didn't even know there is a filter in this, somewhere. I will be sure to ask all these questions when they do the work next Monday. I seem to remember hearing "Firomatic" being discussed when I had the Fire Marshall in, before I moved back into this house, May of 2015. I can't recall if I had one or if I had this oil company stop in and set it up, but I know that is ok.

You've had multiple professionals tell you flat out do not put any oil from the old tank in the new one.  I don't recall any footnotes about it being ok for professionals.

Id heed their warning.

HVACNUT

Have them complete the new tank complete with oil line(s) and fill the new tank with new oil. Run the other until it runs dry, then have them return to swap out the line(s). NO PUMP OVER.

Freedom

HVACNUT said:

Have them complete the new tank complete with oil line(s) and fill the new tank with new oil. Run the other until it runs dry, then have them return to swap out the line(s). NO PUMP OVER.

Excellent! THANK YOU! THIS is helpful, as I have no idea what I am doing here, let alone what the oil company guys are doing. Being able to SAY "do this, I want this done," THAT helps me so much. THANK YOU!!

@ChrisJ yes, and this bothered me overnight all night long. I kept trying to figure out, "what happens to all the oil in the standby tank?" I bought and paid for it. I had a full tank in the cellar, so it is a LOT of oil. (Over $600). FINALLY, @HVACNUT explained how to get it done. Granted, I should not have to come up with the solution, the oil company should know how to do this. But clearly they have the path of least work in mind. Now I know what has to be done, and I can arrange for it to be done that way. Should have the standby tank empty and out of here before the serious cold winter weather arrives, so there should not be any issue with the tank outside unprotected and whatever issues go along with that.

Venturing into a new field, all new territory, there is so much to learn, so much to keep track and figure out. It takes time, and that is why I come on forums (I am on many; as a homeowner of a 68+ year old house, I encounter many issues). I don't always understand WHY, I just find the right way to do something, and then I GET IT DONE RIGHT.

Sometimes you have to tailor your responses to the audience (me). Mid-60s female with no background in this stuff, vs a homeowner who was permitted to take Shop in high school, knows a bit about how things work, and does lots of DIY around his house.

ChrisJ

Here's my interpretation and others please feel free to correct me.

If they take the oil they need to get rid of it somehow and it's a headache for them.

If they put it in your new tank they make it look like they're doing you a favor when in reality they're doing themselves a favor and leaving the crap in your new tank 

That's how I see it but I know very little about this process.

WMno57

Oil (and gasoline) float on water. Oil is now biodiesel, and gas is E10. They both attract water and form acids (why your tank rusted out at the bottom). Microbes also eat biodiesel and pee and poop acids that collect in the bottom of the tank. As the tank rusts on the inside, the rusty iron grit collects on the bottom.
Giving away the 15 - 20 gallons from the bottom of the tank was wise.
To slow tank corrosion:

• Keep tanks full (this displaces humid air)
  
• Keep them inside conditioned space (de-humidifier for basement)
  
• Draw off some fuel regularly (this can be done by occasional use)
  

This applies to boilers, cars, trucks, tractors, and small engines. Fill the tank at the end of the heating season, so it is full over the summer.

ChrisJ

Your leaking tank was full?

@STEVEusaPA Can a full tank be mostly transferred without risking moving sludge etc over?

200+ gallons going to waste seems excessive. I was thinking more along the lines of there was only 20-50 gallons in the tank.

Freedom

ChrisJ said:

Your leaking tank was full?

@STEVEusaPA Can a full tank be mostly transferred without risking moving sludge etc over?

200+ gallons going to waste seems excessive. I was thinking more along the lines of there was only 20-50 gallons in the tank.

Yes, the tank was filled on Thursday; on Friday I had the annual cleaning which includes the Tech looking at everything, and he took the 2 photos I've posted showing the bottom of the tank, and the stalactites. colorful things, aren't they?!

There will be 15 to 20 gallons left in the base of the old tank, that will go to waste. But the rest was siphoned over to the standby tank.

EdTheHeaterMan

When I install a new tank, all the fuel from the old tank is transferred to a temporary tank or barrels. I set up a temporary fuel line from the temporary tank or barrels to the oil burner. The new tank gets installed and new oil is delivered. Now we wait. ...at some point the old oil will be used up from the temporary setup. The customer will have no heat/no hot water and we will respond same day to complete the swap to the new tank. The new tank is full and ready. The new tank connection is completed and a few days later we schedule the temporary tank removal. I tell the customer that they can use my temporary tank or barrels for up to 90 days free of charge, after 90 days there will be a rental fee each month added to the job total. (this way I get my barrels back) I have never charged that fee in the 30+ years I have been self employed. And I included the temporary line labor it in the price of the tank.

I do it this way because I have to live with the maintenance and warranty issues of the old oil that I have no control over. In the last 25 years of my professional life, I did not sell oil and there was no profit for me to sell more oil by asking customers to throw away the oil at the bottom of the old tank. There was a savings in making the new tank have new oil. Less service problems.

It sounds like @Freedom is still using the leaking tank for the fuel source. I would ask the tank installer if they could install a temporary fuel line from the temporary storage on the front porch. Get new oil in the new tank and go from there. It is an inconvenience for a few months for a 10+ year benefit. Even if you need to pay a little extra for the temporary fuel line.

The bottom line is that once the expensive oil is in your tank, if you don't burn it, then it is a Hazardous Waste that costs even more per gallon to remove. You want to burn it but you dont want it in your new tank. See if they can help you save $$$ on this.

Freedom

EdTheHeaterMan said:

It sounds like @Freedom is still using the leaking tank for the fuel source. I would ask the tank installed if they could install a temporary fuel line from the temporary storage on the front porch. Get new oil in the new tank and go from there. It is an inconvenience for a few months for a 10+ year benefit. Even if you need to pay a little extra for the temporary fuel line.

Yes I am currently using up the fuel from the leaking tank. Their explanation is to get the old tank as low as possible before removing it. But it occurs to me that this may mean running some sludge through the line to the boiler. Is that a bad thing, my guess is YES!

I'm learning so much here.

Should I have a written contract at this point? I have nothing. Owner told me the final total cost on the phone, only when I asked. I think I need to phone in to advise I am not going to allow returning the old oil to the new tank, I will use it from the standby tank. What else do I need to say / do now, and in what order?

leonz

You need a written contract to have a "meeting of the minds" to assure that what you want done is done
with no shortcuts, shoddy work and is up to local and national fire code.

If you have not purchased the new tank yet you should look at the Highland 285 gallon Petro Hopper tank. This tank would be fine for the dyed kerosene heating fuel.

The metal fuel tanks have a double wall on the ends like my existing tank that is 23 years old.

The highland petro hopper is a 285 gallon tank within a tank that is round and 50 inches in diameter and designed to be left outside in all weather.

It is designed to be a top draw tank and all the tank tappings are already in place to be used.

You would be able to purchase the Highland Petro Hopper from the local Highland Tank distributor
in your area.