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Boiler replacement conundrum

Mgl
Mgl Member Posts: 3
edited August 2023 in Strictly Steam
I have a Peerless steam boiler from 1962 that is still working pretty well at heating my 2300 SF home, but has required one repair for $1k a couple years ago and the flush valve is really corroded and needs to be replaced for a few hundred more if I keep it this season.  I am considering putting money into a new boiler instead of repairs given that the peerless is 61 years old.  I got quotes for a replacement and the options were a New Yorker or a new Peerless for an $800 premium over the New Yorker.  Two questions:

Am I crazy to replace a functional boiler even if it is 61 years old?  One HVAC guy tried to convince me to keep it, but the cost for a mid-winter replacement if it fails would likely be higher than what I can do it for now.  That along with potential repair costs and decreased resale value of my house with an ancient boiler are making me lean towards a new one.

Is a new Peerless worth it for $800 over a New Yorker?  Will it last significantly longer (with similar maintenance and care)?  I won't likely live in the house for more than 10 years so it doesn't really matter all that much to me but if one is obviously better value I can just go for it.

I feel like the HVAC companies I have had out to check my system out were helpful but they are also trying to sell repair services or a new boiler.  Any honest advice from this group would be appreciated

Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,205
    Has anyone flooded it to make sure it isn't leaking where you can't see it? It could leak tomorrow or it could last another 30 years but that's true of a 10 year old boiler too. Failures are rarely catastrophic at first, if you catch it when it is a small leak you have an opportunity to plan for replacement if that happens while you still own it.

    I'd be inclined to trust the tech that was trying to talk you out of replacing it.
    MikeAmannGGross
  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,127
    The brand really doesn’t make much of a difference it’s the near boiler piping and getting the correct size boiler . As for price I believe the New Yorker is of course cheaper because it’s rebranded Weil McLean . I personally use peerless steel push nipples not o rings. Updating now over durning the winter should be a bit cheaper . As your original boiler is piped in steel so should the new boiler be and if using a peerless the near boiler piping should be 3 inch riser into a 3 inch header w a 2 inch equalizer for the best operation and to produce dry steam . Don’t just look at the price be sure you’re getting not only the correct sized boiler but also the correct job piped correctly flushed and skimmed and main vents update or cut in if there are none . At that age you have gotten your money worth out of it .
    Peace and good luck clammy
    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,052
    Has the contractor said anything about the possible asbestos on the return line? That should be completely removed.
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,351
    If its not leaking, and the Low water cutoff is working...run to failure. Burnham Steamex when it fails.   Mad dog 🐕 

    mattmia2GGross
  • random12345
    random12345 Member Posts: 469
    Is it safe to bring the water level all the way into the steam riser on this boiler? If so, that's an easy way to check for leaks. I bet you'll have some dripping from the gauge glass. Also, what kind of insulation, if any, is inside the boiler jacket? Did they use asbestos for that back in the 1960s?
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,351
    Cover and electronics or elective controls in plastic.   Shut boiler switch off.  Fill slowly. Bu the Early to mid 1960s, they were phasing out asbestos in boiler jackets, but assume it could be ACM.  Have it tested to be certain.   Mad Dog 🐕 
    random12345
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,983
    @Mgl

    What you need is a good steam man (which your HVAC contractor may or may not be) check find a contractor on this site and post your location someone may have a recommendation.

    As @mattmia2 pointed out a boiler can fail at 10 years or at any point and when it will fail cannot be predicted by anyone. If it is not leaking and has no obvious signs of external corrosion it should last a while unless the water side is full of sludge.

    The most important thing is this:

    It's not the new boiler you pick but the contractor that will install it correctly and in accordance with the MFG piping instructions & will skim and clean when complete.

    This is easier said than done. Many contractors will tell you they know all about steam then they install it wrong. Beware. We see horror stories posted here all the time.

    Few actually do.