Sealing drain line through a concrete ceiling

BigMak

I'm working on a bath that had a leak from the upstairs bathtub. the waste line runs through about 6-8" of concrete. The upstairs tub had a bad drain seal, so whenever it was used water ran through the floor, probably along the pipe. The above bath's gasket was replaced. but should it start to leak again, I'd like to seal the pipe penetration as best as possible. Looking for suggestions on the best practices on how to do, and what to use. I'll attach a pic of the pipe.

mattmia2

So you want to trap it inside the floor and produce more extensive water damage if the seal fails again? What is this, is it a tile on mortar shower or is it a tub with an overflow and shoe up higher?

pecmsg

Fix the leak, not the problem. 
the water running down is the problem!

hot_rod

Kind of an illegal  trap I think? A 2” trap with 1-1/2 reduction. Unless it is a combination waste vent🫢

Mad Dog_2

You need to dig down the outside foundation wall to where the water service enters, hygenically clean the surface and then tar the H--- out of the penetration and surrounding wall.  Let it cure a few days and fill back in.  My sure rain water 💧 is not collecting and pooling in this area exacerbating the problem.  Sometimes a downspout needs to be diverted away.  Mad Dog  🐕 

Mad Dog_2

The Reducer going in to the trap inlet.  Yes, it looks a little funny, but I don't ever recall seeing a code where that's illegal. However,  "Reduction in pipe size (drainage) in the direction of flow IS prohibited."  So, if that 2" PVC trap's outlet turned in to 1 1/2"...thats a no no.  Mad Dog  🐕 

JUGHNE

I have always used a 2" P trap on an 1 1/2" tub drain.

Seems to drain faster and less clog up.

Interested to know if illegal and the reasoning behind it.

Retired from plumbing and promise to not do it again.

hot_rod

JUGHNE said:

I have always used a 2" P trap on an 1 1/2" tub drain.

Seems to drain faster and less clog up.

Interested to know if illegal and the reasoning behind it.

Retired from plumbing and promise to not do it again.

The reasoning was that a sewer cleaner head the size of the drain has to be able to fit. Maybe an inspector made that up?

I did one large building with a combination waste vent. It had to be designed and stamped by an engineer. Basically the drains and P traps were 4", but a bell reducer was used so 2" floor drain is the largest that could drain into the trap. This allowed air passage over the water for venting.
So that would also limit the size of the sewer cleaner head, and blow holes in the inspectors opinion. A two way clean out tee would allow a snake from either direction to the trap, I suppose.

mattmia2

hot_rod said:

The reasoning was that a sewer cleaner head the size of the drain has to be able to fit. Maybe an inspector made that up?

That is true of a cleanout for that reason. I'd have to find the rules about a trap. I could see it for a trap that is not otherwise accessible.

PC7060

4" lines would also allow long runs between vents.

Mad Dog_2

I doubt its illegal 🚫.   What about 1 1/4" Lavatory tailpieces in to an 1 1/2" trap..
.an 1 1/2" Tailpiece in to a 2" K.S. trap.  Floor drains don't have to be individually vented if they are with 15' of a vented line and on the same plane. I still prefer individual vents within 2 feet of trap although they allow up to 4 feet away now.  I few times I picked up large jacuzzi tubs with 3" wastes. They drained like Champs! Mad Dog 🐕 

BigMak

after closer inspection, it appears its not the pipe or pipe seal, but the concrete around it. during construction, back in '89, it appears they cut to far through and had to patch. you can clearly see the difference in the concrete.

of course fixing the the leak was done. moving forward, should there be another failure or an overflow flood, water will penetrate once again, causing damage. so i've looking into ways of sealing the concrete patch. one product is a poly-vinyl material that starts off with the viscosity of water, that is pumped into the patch though drill holes/pins on an angle along the perimeter though the good concrete.

pecmsg

BigMak said:

after closer inspection, it appears its not the pipe or pipe seal, but the concrete around it. during construction, back in '89, it appears they cut to far through and had to patch. you can clearly see the difference in the concrete. of course fixing the the leak was done. moving forward, should there be another failure or an overflow flood, water will penetrate once again, causing damage. so i've looking into ways of sealing the concrete patch. one product is a poly-vinyl material that starts off with the viscosity of water, that is pumped into the patch though drill holes/pins on an angle along the perimeter though the good concrete.

That penetration was never designed to be water proof. What are you trying to achieve? If you trap water above IT WILL find a way through!

JUGHNE

In my house I drilled holes thru the floor under the dishwasher and the rear of the fridge/icemaker.

After the first DW leaked and soaked the solid oak floor around it, I added more holes, especially under the water fill valve and pump.

I would rather have the floor leak onto basement ceiling tiles and be forewarned of the leak.

I even drilled weep holes around WC flanges. Then caulked around the tile edges and also the entire room perimeter before installing base trim.

I do not caulk the WC to the floor, I want any leaks to show up in the basement.

I know code, violations....but have never had any plumbing requiring inspection in my area.

hot_rod

Expanding cement is how we sealed sewer lines through foundation walks.  Dike was one brand