My oven died

JakeCK

ChrisJ said:

Ok why does it keep telling me I need approval for the above comment? it wouldn't let me post yesterday and now I tired to fix a typo and it says it needs approval. O.o

Don't know, I don't see any messages or anything, just your comment. I mean no, you can't just sit there building a system on a carpet in the winter. I've never needed a wrist strap, but I don't go out of my way to do something I think will cause a discharge either. The only thing I'd work on with that risk is something using vacuum tubes. They don't care. I usually sit in the kitchen with the motherboard on the static bag it came in and put it together and then mount it in the case.

Bottom line a good jolt after shuffling your feet across the carpet can kill a circuit board or microchip. Imagine what can happen at the pole.

This reminds me of a time when lightning struck one of the trees next to my mother's house growing up. This was back when tube TV's and monitors were the only type of display you had. Every single one of them had a rainbow on the screen for a while and needed to be degaussed, and my TV was never the same afterwards either. And the tuner in one of the TV's was cooked as well. I'll never forget that strike. Instant flash and boom, it was like some one chucked a flash bang in my bedroom at 1 in the morning, I was already awake because of the storm but I was REALLY awake after that. 

ChrisJ

JakeCK said:

ChrisJ said:

JakeCK said:

Ok why does it keep telling me I need approval for the above comment? it wouldn't let me post yesterday and now I tired to fix a typo and it says it needs approval. O.o

Don't know, I don't see any messages or anything, just your comment.


I mean no, you can't just sit there building a system on a carpet in the winter. I've never needed a wrist strap, but I don't go out of my way to do something I think will cause a discharge either. The only thing I'd work on with that risk is something using vacuum tubes. They don't care.

I usually sit in the kitchen with the motherboard on the static bag it came in and put it together and then mount it in the case.

Bottom line a good jolt after shuffling your feet across the carpet can kill a circuit board or microchip. Imagine what can happen at the pole.

This reminds me of a time when lightning struck one of the trees next to my mother's house growing up. This was back when tube TV's and monitors were the only type of display you had. Every single one of them had a rainbow on the screen for a while and needed to be degaussed, and my TV was never the same afterwards either. And the tuner in one of the TV's was cooked as well. I'll never forget that strike. Instant flash and boom, it was like some one chucked a flash bang in my bedroom at 1 in the morning, I was already awake because of the storm but I was REALLY awake after that. 



Yeah,
But anything from the pole would be handled by the power supply which is grounded and has plenty of MOV's in it.

dko

What model PSU are you using in the PC that had the ram damaged?

If any part in your PC failed without the PSU sacrificing itself or activating protections, the PSU is junk. Check it for OVP, OPP, OCP, UVP, BOP, SCP.

Well, saying every PSU is junk for not having every single protection is a stretch. It's overkill in most situations for the price you will pay, but that one time will get you. Especially on higher end systems.

JUGHNE

From looking at the picture of the offending pole in the back yard, that looks to be a Wye system with maybe 7200 volts on the top conductor. The other conductor being the ground/neutral of the secondary triplex on the bottom where your house is connected.

If the ground/neutral is opened with the 7200 energized the return primary current is looking for a return path. It could flow thru any one of the many neutrals connected looking for ground.

So there is the possibility that anything could have happened. It is possible to have changed out that pole with the primary still hot. Not recommended but is done quite often.

Every connected service would/should have it's own grounding system via water line, ground rods or more recently the UFER concrete incased electrode in footings. Any break in the neutral/ground could inject high voltage into the grounding system.......FWIW.

ChrisJ

dko said:

What model PSU are you using in the PC that had the ram damaged?

If any part in your PC failed without the PSU sacrificing itself or activating protections, the PSU is junk. Check it for OVP, OPP, OCP, UVP, BOP, SCP.

Well, saying every PSU is junk for not having every single protection is a stretch. It's overkill in most situations for the price you will pay, but that one time will get you. Especially on higher end systems.

That's why I started only using very good supplies.
Between overclocking and not wanting to deal with B.S. in general, I feel the extra cost isn't a problem.

$100-150 for a power supply for a computer costing $1500-2K is perfectly reasonable in my opinion. Obviously with the cost of video cards these days that could easily be $2k-3K, but whatever.

JakeCK

This was an old computer I don't care for. This one wasn't even on a ups. I'm not going to bother repairing it. And I'm well aware of the need for a quality ups. 

JakeCK

JUGHNE said:

From looking at the picture of the offending pole in the back yard, that looks to be a Wye system with maybe 7200 volts on the top conductor. The other conductor being the ground/neutral of the secondary triplex on the bottom where your house is connected. If the ground/neutral is opened with the 7200 energized the return primary current is looking for a return path. It could flow thru any one of the many neutrals connected looking for ground. So there is the possibility that anything could have happened. It is possible to have changed out that pole with the primary still hot. Not recommended but is done quite often. Every connected service would/should have it's own grounding system via water line, ground rods or more recently the UFER concrete incased electrode in footings. Any break in the neutral/ground could inject high voltage into the grounding system.......FWIW.

I had the service to the house upgraded to 200 amps less than 2 years ago. Two ground rods at the corner of the house, and a new ground going all the way to where the water line comes in on the other side of the house. 

Dave Carpentier

JUGHNE said:

Every connected service would/should have it's own grounding system via water line, ground rods or more recently the UFER concrete incased electrode in footings. Any break in the neutral/ground could inject high voltage into the grounding system.......FWIW.

Does anyone megger grounds anymore ?
I'd be curious how mine are doing.

ChrisJ

Dave Carpentier said:

Every connected service would/should have it's own grounding system via water line, ground rods or more recently the UFER concrete incased electrode in footings. Any break in the neutral/ground could inject high voltage into the grounding system.......FWIW.

Does anyone megger grounds anymore ? I'd be curious how mine are doing.

I've been wanting to buy a megger for a few years now but it just hasn't happened 

109A_5

Dave Carpentier said:

Does anyone megger grounds anymore ?
I'd be curious how mine are doing.

ChrisJ said:

I've been wanting to buy a megger for a few years now but it just hasn't happened 

https://forums.mikeholt.com/threads/megger-readings-vs-earth-ground-tester.125147/

mattmia2

Dave Carpentier said:

JUGHNE said:

Every connected service would/should have it's own grounding system via water line, ground rods or more recently the UFER concrete incased electrode in footings. Any break in the neutral/ground could inject high voltage into the grounding system.......FWIW.

Does anyone megger grounds anymore ?
I'd be curious how mine are doing.

That is why things are installed with 2 grounding electrodes, so that the code doesn't require this be done, at least in residential work. Technically the code says you need a single grounding electrode with a resistance below some value or to install 2 grounding electrodes some specified distance apart.

JakeCK

I wonder how good a ground clay provides. That is all that is around my house once you get through the top soil. Discovered that when I installed my fence and my deck. 6" or so inch of topsoil and then hard clay. 

ChrisJ

JakeCK said:

I wonder how good a ground clay provides. That is all that is around my house once you get through the top soil. Discovered that when I installed my fence and my deck. 6" or so inch of topsoil and then hard clay. 

Probably depends on the moisture content at the time.

PC7060

It’s the moisture in the soil that provides the grounding. 

Per NEC 250.53, "If practicable, rod, pipe, and plate electrodes shall be embedded below permanent moisture level. " 

JakeCK

It's always wet, I live in northern Ohio.

mattmia2

if your water service is metallic and the main is metallic, it will be a far better grounding electrode than any electrode you add. it not only is far more surface but it is bonded to all your neighbors' electrical services too