Need some guidance...

Canucker

Well, I wasn't paying attention when I tried to remove the nipple from the bushing on the end of a cast iron rad. Turns out, when you forget that they're left handed threads, and keep turning them like a right handed thread, the fitting will break and you'll feel sad. The problem I still have is that I can't get the remains of the fitting out of the rad. I've tried using a cold chisel to get it to peel off but it's not going well. Is there anything else to try? Torch or is it done?

Eric

Jamie Hall

A little surprised that that's left hand threads, but let that be. Your best — and probably only — hope is to very very carefully slice the remaining material down to, but not into, the threads (a slight nick isn't going to be a problem; really slicing the threads wil be) in three or sour places around the busing, then try driving it out. You may be happier using an automotive body shop slide hammer and using that to bang on it from the indside — that way if and when it gives it will come out, not pip in…

HomerJSmith

Jamie Hall's recommendation has been suggested many time on this site and I have used it with great success. When reassembling the piping, you might have a leak-proof assemble with Lock-n-Seal or Locktite thread sealing product. High temp, of course. When no other sealing product worked for me after multiple trys, that did.

Clean all the threads ( wire brush) and with lacquer thinner before reassembly.

Canucker

Sounds like I need to get some patience and start cutting. @Jamie Hall the large diameter threads might be right handed but the inside diameter were definitely left. It's not uncommon on old rads in my area. The only indication that something was wrong was a pop when the fitting broke. I realized then that I should have been watching what I was doing

hot_rod

Get a hack saw blade holder, or wrap one end with duct tape. Saw a few slots into the nipple without hitting the threads.

A narrow, 1/4 chisel or center punch to collaspe the nipple.

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mattmia2

Were these connected to the risers with left-right nipples?

EBEBRATT-Ed

You can also use a sawzall or a milwaukee hackzall works good. Just go slow and cut a little at a time and pull the saw out to check the progress. Cut down to just above the threads the chisle will take care of the rest. Once you get 1 section out the rest will come out easily.

dko

At least the bushing cracked and not the radiator. I get so many radiator returns because the radiator cracked when over-tightening a bushing/plug. Not built the same nowadays I guess.

A mini hacksaw is the safest. Especially if it's just for the one bushing and it's not in an awkward position.
May take a while and put a number on your wrist/arm but is indeed the safest. The folding jab saw that takes recip saw blades is also good.

If you do use a reciprocating saw, shortest blade you can use + highest TPI count. It will give you more control vs a low TPI count that will rip through it in a second.

What works best is the Milwaukee 49-00-5324, 24tpi scroll blade, 48-00-5163, 18tpi scroll blade.
For small diameter, the duct blade 48-00-1630 30tpi blade will be the safest one you can use for precise control.

Also do not use any orbital action recip saw.

Mad Dog_2

As the others said but ALWAYS cut out a "tooth," thats two cuts about a 1/2" apart. Go slow..not deep keep checking it. U may need a very small caping chisel and an awl to catch the lip and lift it out. Then cave the remains in.. When you finally get it out, run a Pipe tap thru it to true it up. If no tap, a black nipple.. Quick Wick (thin not fat) wick and alot of Permatex if u cut too deep, otherwise good dope Megaloc? Or Blue Monster Teflon and dope. I've cut DEEP in to threads on Large diameter Domestic water brass pipe (4" and 6".......I thought I was screwed@!#!@) because of the horrible spot it was in,, but Tons of Wick and Megaloc (No Permatex on drinking water). Works wonders..Mad