Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Need some guidance...

Options
Canucker
Canucker Member Posts: 722

Well, I wasn't paying attention when I tried to remove the nipple from the bushing on the end of a cast iron rad. Turns out, when you forget that they're left handed threads, and keep turning them like a right handed thread, the fitting will break and you'll feel sad. The problem I still have is that I can't get the remains of the fitting out of the rad. I've tried using a cold chisel to get it to peel off but it's not going well. Is there anything else to try? Torch or is it done?

Eric

You can have it good, fast or cheap. Pick two

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,649
    Options

    A little surprised that that's left hand threads, but let that be. Your best — and probably only — hope is to very very carefully slice the remaining material down to, but not into, the threads (a slight nick isn't going to be a problem; really slicing the threads wil be) in three or sour places around the busing, then try driving it out. You may be happier using an automotive body shop slide hammer and using that to bang on it from the indside — that way if and when it gives it will come out, not pip in…

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    Canuckermattmia2Mad Dog_2
  • HomerJSmith
    HomerJSmith Member Posts: 2,511
    edited March 2023
    Options

    Jamie Hall's recommendation has been suggested many time on this site and I have used it with great success. When reassembling the piping, you might have a leak-proof assemble with Lock-n-Seal or Locktite thread sealing product. High temp, of course. When no other sealing product worked for me after multiple trys, that did.

    Clean all the threads ( wire brush) and with lacquer thinner before reassembly.

    Canucker
  • Canucker
    Canucker Member Posts: 722
    edited March 2023
    Options

    Sounds like I need to get some patience and start cutting. @Jamie Hall the large diameter threads might be right handed but the inside diameter were definitely left. It's not uncommon on old rads in my area. The only indication that something was wrong was a pop when the fitting broke. I realized then that I should have been watching what I was doing

    You can have it good, fast or cheap. Pick two
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,476
    Options

    Get a hack saw blade holder, or wrap one end with duct tape. Saw a few slots into the nipple without hitting the threads.

    A narrow, 1/4 chisel or center punch to collaspe the nipple.

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    Mad Dog_2Canucker
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,959
    Options

    Were these connected to the risers with left-right nipples?

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,839
    Options

    You can also use a sawzall or a milwaukee hackzall works good. Just go slow and cut a little at a time and pull the saw out to check the progress. Cut down to just above the threads the chisle will take care of the rest. Once you get 1 section out the rest will come out easily.

    Canucker
  • dko
    dko Member Posts: 644
    edited March 2023
    Options

    At least the bushing cracked and not the radiator. I get so many radiator returns because the radiator cracked when over-tightening a bushing/plug. Not built the same nowadays I guess.

    A mini hacksaw is the safest. Especially if it's just for the one bushing and it's not in an awkward position.
    May take a while and put a number on your wrist/arm but is indeed the safest. The folding jab saw that takes recip saw blades is also good.

    If you do use a reciprocating saw, shortest blade you can use + highest TPI count. It will give you more control vs a low TPI count that will rip through it in a second.

    What works best is the Milwaukee 49-00-5324, 24tpi scroll blade, 48-00-5163, 18tpi scroll blade.
    For small diameter, the duct blade 48-00-1630 30tpi blade will be the safest one you can use for precise control.

    Also do not use any orbital action recip saw.

    Canucker
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,245
    Options

    As the others said but ALWAYS cut out a "tooth," thats two cuts about a 1/2" apart. Go slow..not deep keep checking it. U may need a very small caping chisel and an awl to catch the lip and lift it out. Then cave the remains in.. When you finally get it out, run a Pipe tap thru it to true it up. If no tap, a black nipple.. Quick Wick (thin not fat) wick and alot of Permatex if u cut too deep, otherwise good dope Megaloc? Or Blue Monster Teflon and dope. I've cut DEEP in to threads on Large diameter Domestic water brass pipe (4" and 6".......I thought I was screwed@!#!@) because of the horrible spot it was in,, but Tons of Wick and Megaloc (No Permatex on drinking water). Works wonders..Mad

    Canucker