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Boiler Bypass
![David80908](https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/9c5f71c5f1f6411ff075c9348691f02a/?default=https%3A%2F%2Fvanillicon.com%2Fde2c733891bf5ce1a81ece4b59d818ef_200.png&rating=g&size=200)
David80908
Member Posts: 2
Does anyone know how to adjust a boiler bypass valve? I have a Teledyne Laars Mighty Therm HH 0250C boiler with a manual bypass valve. I accidently hit the valve handle and can't figure out how to get it back to where it should be. ![](https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/u1/3on4m97oa4c3.jpg)
![](https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/b5/p8t0akpsav9f.jpg)
![](https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/tv/7m12x8px01ff.jpg)
![](https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/oe/xsgm5qklwzoo.jpg)
Suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you, David
![](https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/u1/3on4m97oa4c3.jpg)
![](https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/b5/p8t0akpsav9f.jpg)
![](https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/tv/7m12x8px01ff.jpg)
![](https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/oe/xsgm5qklwzoo.jpg)
Suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you, David
0
Comments
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The bypass is typically adjusted to be sure the return water to the boiler is above 140 degrees F to avoid condensingRay Wohlfarth
Boiler Lessons1 -
I personally hate ball valves as a control method on a boiler bypass. It because ball valves have such a low valve authority. Before a ball valve starts regulating it is 90% closed. For a fixed valve, a globe valve mounted in the right direction is a better choice. Yes, globe valves are directional.
The original setting of that ball valve may have been just an guesstimate. There are stick on thermometers that you can put on the return pipe to the boiler below the bypass and in a worse case scenario, at start up with all zones calling for heat, monitor the return temp and set the valve so that the return water is above 130 deg.
I prefer a motorized sensor monitoring bypass valve. That is because the inlet temp to the boiler must be above 130 deg for condensing in the heat exchanger and flue not to occur. All boilers condense at start up, but it is sustained condensation that one wants to avoid. There are also operational changes in return water temperatures as when more zone valves open as an example that is why I prefer a sensor actuating valve. Whether the sensor is in the valve body or exterior to the valve is immaterial.
Caleffi make a modulating bypass valve that has good reviews. I have used Taco I-Series set point motorized valves. Today I would go with the Caleffi boiler bypass valve. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Caleffi-280166A-1-Female-NPT-ThermoProtec-Thermostatic-Mixing-Valve-140-Degrees-F-Tset
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-I075C2S-2-3-4-2-Way-Setpoint-I-Series-Mixing-Valve-w-Sensor2 -
Measure your supply water temp and return water temp when the boiler is running full bore from a cold start with a load on it. You want the supply water temp to be about 20 degrees warmer than the return. It looks like the manual calls for 20gpm through the boiler with a 20 degree TD across the boiler.
I think this is the correct manual attached1 -
Piped primary/ secondary? Doesn't look like the boiler is piped this way? If not I wonder how well it runs with one zone calling, like the master?EBEBRATT-Ed said:Measure your supply water temp and return water temp when the boiler is running full bore from a cold start with a load on it. You want the supply water temp to be about 20 degrees warmer than the return. It looks like the manual calls for 20gpm through the boiler with a 20 degree TD across the boiler.
I think this is the correct manual attached
I'd say more open then closed if that is a 250,000 boiler.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream2 -
You guys are awesome! It is amazing how much this adjustment affects the system. I will work with these adjustments to get the system back on line. Thank you so much!!0
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