In-wall convector leaking from union fitting. Can't get wrench on it.

jtor1134

I have an in-wall convector that is dripping water (and hissing slightly) from the rounded-
end union fitting. I've corrected this before on other free-standing radiators in the house by disconnecting the fitting, cleaning up the surface and and applying thin sealant, however in this one I can't get the wrench onto the thing. The body of the wrench is either hitting the body of radiator itself or the end of the wrench is hitting the floor. This is probably a dumb, amateurish question but what tool should I be using here?

STEVEusaPA

Can you get the front cover off? If not, you probably need an offset wrench.

jtor1134

There is no front cover. The whole thing is cast iron. Something like this?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Multi-Angle-Pipe-Wrench-16PL0144/304228787

pecmsg

What's that bump with a screw head buried in paint?

jtor1134

Not sure to be honest.

Danny Scully

This is a recessed cast iron radiator. The screw head is an optional location for an air vent. You’ll need a variety of wrenches, maybe an adjustable. It’s not ideal but it is doable. Try to loosen it and apply thread sealant, then retighten. 

EdTheHeaterMan

Maybe a strap wrench or a chain wrench will do the job. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Crescent-12-in-Chain-Wrench-CW12H/204064331
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-1-1-2-in-to-5-in-Grip-It-Strap-Wrench-with-6-in-Handle-S-6H/100648057#overlay

neilc

I was thinking of a under counter faucet wrench

Long Beach Ed

Look at the Google pictures of "offset pipe wrench" or, as Mr. Scully suggests, use a Channellock. The Channellock usually works for me if I'm doing a union under these Sunrads.

As it looks like some new work under there, depending on what's leaking, you may have to open up that union, pull the radiator from the wall and tighten those threaded joints with the proper pipe dope. It appears that it has been out recently.

If it's just the union that's leaking, make sure the pipes are carefully lined up before tightening the union by hand before you wrench it. You'll probably have to lift the valve to get it all in line.

EBEBRATT-Ed

A small chain wrench @EdTheHeaterMan suggested is good in a tight spot. I have used one where nothing else would work

jtor1134

Long Beach Ed said:

Look at the Google pictures of "offset pipe wrench" or, as Mr. Scully suggests, use a Channellock. The Channellock usually works for me if I'm doing a union under these Sunrads.

As it looks like some new work under there, depending on what's leaking, you may have to open up that union, pull the radiator from the wall and tighten those threaded joints with the proper pipe dope. It appears that it has been out recently.

If it's just the union that's leaking, make sure the pipes are carefully lined up before tightening the union by hand before you wrench it. You'll probably have to lift the valve to get it all in line.

Thank you. It does look like somewhat new work but I'm not sure from when. I've only been in this house 5 years.



It's leaking from around here so I think it's the union and not one of the threaded fittings. I'm hoping I don't have to remove the thing from the wall since it's somewhat mudded in but if I have to, then I have to lol. I do remember having to fiddle around to get everything lined up on the last radiator I did this to but I also had access to all of it.

EdTheHeaterMan

Put a drain in the bowl and pipe to with vinyl tube to the basement floor drain. If you charge them $$$ for it, then you can say it was Professionally Repaired

Long Beach Ed

Ed! A real steam man would put that hose into the wet return. Home Depot makes a kit.

CLamb

EdTheHeaterMan said:

Put a drain in the bowl and pipe to with vinyl tube to the basement floor drain.

That reminds me of a time when I was working at the top floor of the Hexagon Building at Ft. Monmouth. The roof was leaking and water was coming through the ceiling. It was taking a long time to get the leak fixed. So we duct taped a sheet of polyethylene around the leaking area in the ceiling and connected a plastic tube from the low point of the sheet to the condensate drain of the air conditioner.

jtor1134

EdTheHeaterMan said:

Put a drain in the bowl and pipe to with vinyl tube to the basement floor drain. If you charge them $$$ for it, then you can say it was Professionally Repaired

This is hilarious.

Larry Weingarten

Hi, How about this? https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=toyang+power+jaws+youtube&view=detail&mid=21DB139085A20F2FF63621DB139085A20F2FF636&FORM=VIRE I've used one of these for years and it does get into tight spots.

Yours, Larry

jtor1134

That might work. I tried with a giant pair of channel locks. I was able to back the nut all the way off and was struggling to get the union separated (or radiator removed). It also occurred to me that if I can't get this thing back together I'm in deep **** because the valve doesn't close properly (radiator still gets hot with it tightened all the way down). I think I'm better off just trying to tighten it best I can and limp it along until the spring. Then I can take my time with it.

JUGHNE

When necessary in a tight spot, pipe wrench placed backwards and then jaws tightened may get you the final turns.

Don_175

JUGHNE said:

When necessary in a tight spot, pipe wrench placed backwards and then jaws tightened may get you the final turns.

What do you mean placed backwards?

JUGHNE

The top of the hook is often in the way.

By backwards, I mean to put the wrench on as you wanted to go in the wrong direction, tighten the jaws as much as possible and push/pull the handle in the wrong direction.

Works on union nuts or fittings with flats......sometimes.

Don_175

JUGHNE said:

The top of the hook is often in the way.

By backwards, I mean to put the wrench on as you wanted to go in the wrong direction, tighten the jaws as much as possible and push/pull the handle in the wrong direction.

Works on union nuts or fittings with flats......sometimes.

Thanks