Trane Vapor System Replacement Valve

Cyclone33

I have a 2 pipe steam system. I believe it is the Trane vapor system. I have some bad valves I need to replace. Does anyone know a replacement for these?

mattmia2

What is bad about them? They are rebuildable but new ones are not available.

Jamie Hall

As @mattmia2 says, what's the matter with them? There isn't much to go wrong, and they aren't that hard to work on. New valves would be quite a job...

Cyclone33

Can't i buy just the insert? I am not trying to replace entire thing. They are leaking. Tried tightening still leaking out top. What recommendations do you have to repair?

Jamie Hall

Cyclone33 said:

Can't i buy just the insert? I am not trying to replace entire thing. They are leaking. Tried tightening still leaking out top. What recommendations do you have to repair?

No on the guts -- sorry. However, there is a graphite packing in there which may need replacement or just tightening. To do that, though, you need to take the valve somewhat apart -- and I'd suggest playing with that sometime other than the middle of winter. It's not hard, but if it's your first rodeo...

Gordo

Hmm.
That looks like a Haynes valve.
Haynes sold the design to Hoffman and they made it into their Hoffman #7.
See if you can get the handle off and post a picture of the packing nut.

Cyclone33

Jamie Hall

That packing has seen better days... if you are ambitious, try taking the packing nut off and repacking it. I'd recommend a string packing, preferably graphite.

mattmia2

You can get all sorts of types and sizes of packing cord from Mcmaster-Carr. go easy, it is better to put a little in and snug it down then put a little more in than put a lot in and try to really crank it. If you use too much force you can break the packing nut.

Cyclone33

Thanks for the advice. I can handle that 

Gordo

Thanks for posting picture of the packing nut.
Its good that your valve was not a pure Haynes/Hoffman valve because removing those Haynes castellated packing nuts are...
interesting.
This looks *much* more straight-forward.
I'd use a box wrench or 6-point socket of the appropriate size to remove the packing nut.
Sometimes, I've removed some or all of the old packing to make room for the new packing.
I've found that carefully using a hole-saw bit of the appropriate size manually facilitates the removal of the, um, fibrous material.

BTW, what is the name on the valve?

mattmia2

Note that old packing is frequently asbestos with or without graphite.

Cyclone33

Trane is name on valve 

reggi

@Cyclone33  G/L with repair... sidenote: the radiator outlet fitting on the Trane system of vapor heating had some type of plate or cover with 2 holes drilled through.. one through the upper part of the disk for air to escape and a hole below it for condensate... being yours appear to have these fittings it would be worth it to check if these are still intact and if so to make sure they are clear of debris because that would really mess your system..

clammy

Being your system is a vapor system usually they are controlled by a vaporstat without that you would usually have a standard pressuretroll which setting are not designed for a vapor system and usually enable your boiler to produce 1.5 psi which is to high for a vapor system and will usually cause most older orificed type valve to leak being they where designed to not see pressure over a few ounces . Hopefully you have a low pressure gauge 0-3 psi gauge on your system . As for rebuilding good luck ,lower your operating pressure . If total sick of it then replace the valve and use a valve and a orifice plate the plate should be drilled out to a size relating to about2/3 of the edr of the radiator so as to only feed what the radiator will condense as to not let steam in tothe dry return which is a bad thing as for distribution . Turnstall Corp has plates .
Peace and good luck clammy

FStephenMasek

Gordo said:

I've found that carefully using a hole-saw bit of the appropriate size manually facilitates the removal of the, um, fibrous material.

Likely asbestos, so please do not use a power tool. The exposures add up....

mattmia2

I think he is saying turn a hole saw in your hand. But still keep it all wet. I use a small screwdriver and a piece of piano wire with a hook in the end.