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Weil Mclain Gold Oil Overpressure Situation Diagnosing

Kris911
Kris911 Member Posts: 5
in Oil Heating
Hi folks thank you in advance for reading this and any feedback you may have. I just bought a home and sadly it has some issues with the boiler. I got two guys in to try to fix it and at this point they've changed all the pressure valves and even the expansion tank but the issue is persisting. I would really appreciate any thoughts/feedback so I'm not just continuously paying for changing things that don't need changing.

Here are the facts:
- Weil Mclain Cast Iron furnace that also heats my hot water tank and provides heating for the forced air system

- when the boiler kicks on (regardless of zone) it eventually goes over pressure (over 40psi and over 170 degrees Fahrenheit) and starts dripping from the pressure relief valve EVERY time. I get a varying amount of water (assuming it has to do with how long the boiler is running)

-I turned off the water supply to the boiler and got no water for about a day and a half but then got some again...not sure if the residual pressure was too much? Or if that means there's another issue

I've gotten two differing suggestions on what the fix is so hoping you experts may have a consensus opinion because I don't have much faith in the suggestions as it does not seem like a proper diagnostic was done.

Getting super frustrated as I am going to visit my sister for Christmas since she just had kids and don't want to be paranoid about the bucket of water releasing overflowing and leading to flooding/damage to the rest of the finished basement.

Video of Issue: [VIDEO]https://youtu.be/XQ2LccsaYqQ[/VIDEO]


Thanks again for the help. As a headsup up I'm in Fairfield County CT.

Comments

  • Kris911
    Kris911 Member Posts: 5






  • Kris911
    Kris911 Member Posts: 5
    edited December 2022
    PSI went down to 5 with in-line water:
    [VIDEO]https://youtube.com/shorts/NHmd_jdWlHg?feature=share[/VIDEO]

    I opened the water line and it went back up to 15 (not running)- I would think if it's the fill valve the pressure would go higher?:


  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,296
    Nothing is jumping out at me.

    1. But since they changed the expansion tank I am assuming (big assumption) that they checked the air pressure in the tank before they installed it?
    2. Possible (but unlikely) that the new feeder (PRV) is leaking by.
    3. You coil in the indirect water heater could have a pinhole in it causing city water to enter the boiler.

    You could check #3 by shutting off the cold water supply to the indirect (you won't have any hot water) and try that for a day or so to see if the boiler pressure holds.

    If it is leaking then you could valve off the indirect while away for Christmas until you get it replaced
    Kris911SuperTech
  • JHVETTE22
    JHVETTE22 Member Posts: 1
    I totally agree, it seems like the indirect water heater has a leak somewhere and is causing the pressure to build up in the boiler.
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
    All the same answers I gave on the other site.

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

    pecmsgSuperTech
  • Adk1guy
    Adk1guy Member Posts: 71
    edited December 2022
    I would look at the expansion tank. It doesn't look new to me with the dust on top.

    Take red cap off bottom and give the tire valve pin a quick push. Water means you need a new E tank. Draw boiler pressure to zero and check the E tank air pressure with a tire gauge, should be approx. normal system pressure, usually 12 psi. If low pump it up. If too high let air out to adjust to correct.

    If E tank is working right then the indirect most likely suspect.

    IDK why your pressure gauge shows the pressure at 50 psi. You must either have very tall house or the wrong relief valve installed or yours is defective.

    The burner makes a ra ra ra sound. I could usually solve by scraping the dust and crud build up off the backside of the fan vanes which is blocked from sight by the vanes themselves which is why few techs clean them out.

    I see a weil mclain qb 180 burner. brings back bad memories.
  • Kris911
    Kris911 Member Posts: 5
    Adk1guy said:

    I would look at the expansion tank. It doesn't look new to me with the dust on top.

    Take red cap off bottom and give the tire valve pin a quick push. Water means you need a new E tank. Draw boiler pressure to zero and check the E tank air pressure with a tire gauge, should be approx. normal system pressure, usually 12 psi. If low pump it up. If too high let air out to adjust to correct.

    If E tank is working right then the indirect most likely suspect.

    IDK why your pressure gauge shows the pressure at 50 psi. You must either have very tall house or the wrong relief valve installed or yours is defective.

    The burner makes a ra ra ra sound. I could usually solve by scraping the dust and crud build up off the backside of the fan vanes which is blocked from sight by the vanes themselves which is why few techs clean them out.

    I see a weil mclain qb 180 burner. brings back bad memories.

    Pressed the pin on the schraeder valve and there was some water coming out of it. I will get the expansion tank replaced again and report back!
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,296
    @Kris911


    Your first post said the expansion tank was changed? Was it or was it not? That would be the first thing to look at. If you have water coming out the air side it's shot.

    Drill a hole in it to drain the water or someone going to get a broken toe
    MikeAmann
  • Kris911
    Kris911 Member Posts: 5
    EBEBRATT-Ed said:

    @Kris911


    Your first post said the expansion tank was changed? Was it or was it not? That would be the first thing to look at. If you have water coming out the air side it's shot.

    Drill a hole in it to drain the water or someone going to get a broken toe

    I was told it was replaced but I have my doubts since the tank reads 2017 and when I press the schrader valve I'm getting some water. Oddly the bottom 1/4 of the tank still sounds hollow though..

    Good tip on drilling a hole!

  • In_New_England
    In_New_England Member Posts: 133
    Similar setup as I have. The boiler thermostat is ok? Not set to too high a temp?
  • In_New_England
    In_New_England Member Posts: 133
    PS. What is that metal duct at the bottom that emerges from the combustion chamber and heads into the cinderblock at the level of the ash clear out?
  • MikeAmann
    MikeAmann Member Posts: 1,044
    edited December 2022
    That is combustion air supply for the burner. Which begs the next question:
    Is @Kris911 absolutely sure that the burner is not pulling in exhaust that already was expelled from the burner? And will that lead to Kris911 having to call 911?
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
    MikeAmann said:

    That is combustion air supply for the burner. Which begs the next question:
    Is @Kris911 absolutely sure that the burner is not pulling in exhaust that already was expelled from the burner? And will that lead to Kris911 having to call 911?

    2 different flues. Probably not much different than a concentric vent. Still not a fan of them.

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • MikeAmann
    MikeAmann Member Posts: 1,044
    STEVEusaPA said:

    MikeAmann said:

    That is combustion air supply for the burner. Which begs the next question:
    Is @Kris911 absolutely sure that the burner is not pulling in exhaust that already was expelled from the burner? And will that lead to Kris911 having to call 911?

    2 different flues. Probably not much different than a concentric vent. Still not a fan of them.
    Yes, but what happens at the top of the chimney?
    Is it possible to suck the exhaust down flue #2 after it exits flue #1?

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