Oil burner not turning on

fredfmash

I have a Beckett oil fired air burner that sometimes doesn’t come on when I turn it down to 65 at nite and the outside temp goes below 45. I have a new oil filter, clean strainer, new electrodes with proper gaps, new flame detector eye, new air filter, diesel treatment in the tank, oil line bled, no tiger loop, and all wire connections tight. The green light is flashing on the cad cell, and it always starts up after pressing the reset button once. Continues to run fine all day. Cad cell going bad? Other? Thanks

STEVEusaPA

It only needs a qualified oil burner tech to check it out, properly check the components, and set up combustion.

Dave Carpentier

"doesnt come on" is kinda vague.
Does it just sit there and not try to do anything ?
Does the burner's motor come on ?
Does combustion start and then goes out ?

EBEBRATT-Ed

could be a plugged oil line, weak transformer, cracked electrodes or a million other things

EdTheHeaterMan

This is always a problem to resolve because the burner trips on reset button when no one is watching it. I have had this problem many times. each time it is a little different. once it was a electronic ignition going bad. it would work when I was there but it would lock out overnight. Another time there was a defective clean cut pump solenoid. worked when ever it was there and failed when I was not there. There was one time that a brand new clean cut pump was installed to replace a pump without a solenoid valve. The screw that locks the air band adjustment on the side of the burner was in the way and caused the stem in the pump to bend slightly. (The new burners with the clean cut pump has that screw offset to the side). changed the pump again and found the same problem. Removed the screw and the problem was solved.

I guess what I'm saying here is that you need someone that is experienced on oil burners to look closely at it, to find the problem. They may not get it on the first try, so you need to ask them about their warranty on service calls before you hire them. You might find the pro will find the problem in the first 10 minutes he is there. Then all that you spent on the new oil filter, clean strainer, new electrodes with proper gaps, new flame detector eye, new air filter, and diesel treatment in the tank had nothing to do with the problem and that money could have been spent on the professional repair.

Good luck with resolving your problem.

Mr. Ed

EdTheHeaterMan

One of the things I might try if I could not get the problem solved on the second try.
...on the third try, I would replace the primary control with a Carlin 70200S with diagnostics. That control helped find problems that were not showing up when I was there. One time the failure showed up as low current to ignition in the error message. That meant the electronic ignition failed after 37 tries that had no problem. I replaced the ignition and the problem was solved. I put the old primary control back on to save the consumer some money. They only paid the ignition and the labor, not for the part that found the problem.

I try my best to do right by my customers, that is why they miss me so much.

By the way, the customer only paid for the repairs that solved the problem. Even though I was there 4 times to get it right. The customer paid for the service call fee, the ignition parts, the labor to install the primary and remove the primary and the labor for the ignition repair. I warranty the service call fee until the problem is solved. 4 trips only 1 service call fee.

Mr. Ed

Jamie Hall

I had that problem, never did find out what the actual problem was (I hate those things), but replaced the older Carlin control with the Carlin 70200 as @EdTheHeaterMan suggested -- and haven't had any trouble since.

EdTheHeaterMan

Jamie Hall said:

I had that problem, never did find out what the actual problem was (I hate those things), but replaced the older Carlin control with the Carlin 70200 as @EdTheHeaterMan suggested -- and haven't had any trouble since.

When ever I did that, and I suggested that many times, More often than not, the better Primary control solved the problem. The customer would then keep the new modern control.

I believe the old 3 wire controls needed a minimum of 1700 OHM resistance or lower to keep the primary from tripping on safety lockout. The newer control could still operate at much higher resistance, (3000+), so the constant OHM resistance flame signal was another way to adjust the flame. Open and close the air gate to get the lowest OHM reading. Then do the combustion test to see if the flame was within acceptable range, zero smoke, low CO and such.

The Primary Control, A necessary part also becomes a tool.

The wonders of modern science.

Kickstand55

Many variables involved in what we do. Sometimes we get the first time and sometimes not.
What customers tell us is their perception or that of another. We don't always get a straight answer either. The brother in-law seems to be part of the equation at times. He knows so much.
Checking everything reasonable based on the issue reported is normal for a good tech. Ask a lot of questions. Pry a little. Look around and take note.
Electrical connections, voltage, ohm and amperage readings should be included. Not easy to do at 11:30 on a cold snowy Sunday night after a long drive.
We do the impossible. Miracles take longer.
Keep up the good work!!! It can be a thankless job at times. Oh, and don't forget to charge for your time.