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Panel radiator sizing/design temp?
Pulse
Member Posts: 78
I want to design my system around a 120 degree SWT(condensing boiler).
What is the proper design temperature to use? It seems my area has an average temp of ~20 degrees, while 1% of the time it is ~7 degrees or less. (If someone knows a good site to view weather history/stats per year, please let me know.)
I can greatly decrease my radiator sizes using the 20 degrees outside temp instead of 7 degrees. Wouldn't it make sense to size rads that way and just increase the SWT to 130-140 on those 1% days to meet the BTU demand?
What is the proper design temperature to use? It seems my area has an average temp of ~20 degrees, while 1% of the time it is ~7 degrees or less. (If someone knows a good site to view weather history/stats per year, please let me know.)
I can greatly decrease my radiator sizes using the 20 degrees outside temp instead of 7 degrees. Wouldn't it make sense to size rads that way and just increase the SWT to 130-140 on those 1% days to meet the BTU demand?
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Comments
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How much wall space are you willing to give up in order to use this lower temperature radiator system? For example, a 20" x 24" panel radiator with 180° average water temperature might offer 2,700 BTUh of heat into a room. to do that with 140° water temperature you would need a 20" x 48" radiator of the same model. I can only imagine the having a maximum temperature of 120° in the radiator, you might need to have more that one row of radiators. I wonder how that might look with some pictures hanging on them.
180° max home
120° max temp home
That could be a look you might want to go for, OR not.
Since the low outdoor temperature only happens 1% of the year, You might consider a max temperature a little higher, like 140°. Then your boiler will have most of the heating season at or below 125°, and your walls can have more space to show off some tchotchkes.
Just a thought
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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BIN data graph is what you want. ASHRAE has it, but I think you need to be a member. If you are good at navigating sites, you can find 20 and 30 year history at www.ncei.noaa.gov
Its a gamble on that lowest expected temperature. Your reasoning is sound to just boost temperature for design or below periods. The boiler with ODR will do it for youBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
@EdTheHeaterMan
I have been using Beacon Morris as a baseline, but basically all these panel rad companies have the same radiators putting out the same BTUs.
I plan to use ~16" height and ~4" depth radiator. My entire house load on a design day of 7 degrees is only 33k BTU, so it isnt that bad..lol
Below are the specs for Beacon Morris:
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I think Myson or Runtal now have a boost add on like Jaga has had for years. Basically some small computer muffin fans that force some convection. Sometimes a better option to increasing panel size.Pulse said:@EdTheHeaterMan
I have been using Beacon Morris as a baseline, but basically all these panel rad companies have the same radiators putting out the same BTUs.
I plan to use ~16" height and ~4" depth radiator. Below are the specs for Beacon Morris:
https://jaga.com/en/products/horizontal/dbh-upgrade.htmlBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
As far as weather data, try https://www.weather.gov/ there is a section for weather history and another for heating/cooling
Bob has a good point about keeping the radiator size down too
But selecting the design water temperature to match the design outdoor temperature, since it rarely happens, Design for a slightly higher water temperature, Otherwise you need 3x the radiator.
What ever you decide, Know that you can increase the design water temperature curve to make your home a tropical paradise in January with a simple water temperature adjustment.
I think the ribbed wall design is growing on me a littleEdward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
1 -
@EdTheHeaterMan
Thank you for the website, confirmed my average of 20 degrees is correct.
As an example: one of my bedrooms has a heatloss of 1960 BTU @ 20 degrees or 2450 BTU @ 7 degrees
Designing at 20 allows me to use a 16x48x4" vs a 16x56x4", then just bump up to ~130 SWT if needed, while still condensing
I can decreases by ~12" per rad in every single room
@hot_rod
Jaga is a company I did not know about, but their panels look expensive.
I do not like the idea of fans though, haha0 -
OK. I will take you off my list of those I admire. I was just getting the @Pulse Fan Club charter documents together too.Pulse said:@EdTheHeaterMan
Thank you for the website...
...I do not like the idea of fans though, haha
It is official, let the record show "I am no longer a Fan of @Pulse" because he does not like fans."
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
1
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