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Burner Not turning On

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STvex
STvex Member Posts: 71
Good Morning,

I have a weil McClain hot water boiler cg 15.  Today my burners won't turn on.  The thermostats are calling for heat, I hear the damper opening, the circulator is on but the burners don't turn on. I unplugged the red switch by the damper coller and it closes the damper. Any other place I can check for?  I attached two pics.  Boiler was working fine yesterday.  

Thanks in advance.

Comments

  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,388
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    LP or Natural gas? Is there fuel to the appliance?

    Any open safeties?

    Beyond that, there’s not enough info to suggest anything else and a meter and the skill to use it are gonna be needed.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • gyrfalcon
    gyrfalcon Member Posts: 167
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    Do you have a pilot light? Is it lit?
    Slant Fin Galaxy GG100(1986) , 2 zone hot water baseboard, T87 Honeywell thermostats. 
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 16,950
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    No pilot light- I see a Honeywell spark module on the side. It may have been upgraded with a spark-ignition kit.

    Next thing I'd check is the roll-out safety.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    MaxMercyEdTheHeaterMan
  • pedmec
    pedmec Member Posts: 994
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    Check the spill switch on the draft hood. Its in series with the gas valve. The draft damper was opened so there was a call for heat. Press the red button in the middle to reset
  • STvex
    STvex Member Posts: 71
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    Thanks.  I have gas with electronic ignition.  I tried to press the red button on the hood collar but it doesn't go anywhere.  What is the piece called and what is its purpose?
  • pedmec
    pedmec Member Posts: 994
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    Its called a spill switch and prevents the boiler from coming on if there is an issue venting the products of combustion. You don't want the products of combustion spilling out of the draft hood.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,095
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    Then there is the roll out switch as Steamhead pointed out.

    Usually a one time fuse link down at the burners.

    If you have 24 volts across the connections to that, when there is a call for heat, then it is open and needs replaced after you find the cause for failure.
  • STvex
    STvex Member Posts: 71
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    Thank you all.  I will replace both switches, seems easy to do.  Besides these two, any other part I can replace?  
    mattmia2
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 8,157
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    STvex said:

    Thank you all.  I will replace both switches, seems easy to do.  Besides these two, any other part I can replace?  

    Before you do that you want to check this
    JUGHNE said:

    Then there is the roll out switch as Steamhead pointed out.

    Usually a one time fuse link down at the burners.

    If you have 24 volts across the connections to that, when there is a call for heat, then it is open and needs replaced after you find the cause for failure.

    So the simple test is to find the ceramic limit switch that looks like this:It is located down near the burner access door. If you connect the 2 wires together with a paperclip or some other TEMPORARY jumper, then the burner starts. you have found the defective part. If you don't get the burner to start with this test, then replacing non defective parts with "new" non defective parts will only cost you money without the desired result.

    Only replacing defective parts with good parts will fix the problem.

    If you get the heater to operate with the jumper, you must first remove the jumper. DO NOT OPERATE with a safety limit disconnected or with a jumper in place.
    Next thing is to find out why the safety limit device did what it did.
    Then finally after finding the cause of the failure, you can put the replacement part on and operate the system


    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    mattmia2Ironman
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 8,157
    edited December 2022
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    DO NOT OPERATE with a safety limit disconnected or with a jumper in place.

    the reason this is so important is
    1. The roll out switch is to protect you from operating the burner if the heat exchanger is clogged or blocked
    2. A blocked heat exchanger will not allow the dangerous byproducts of combustion to vent properly up the chimney
    3. Byproducts of combustion will melt the other components inside the front door of the heater and may cause the gas valve to get stuck open.
    4. Byproducts of combustion contain carbon monoxide that can make you sick while you sleep if not vented out the chimney properly.
    Skip to the last of many reasons
    168. You could die.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • STvex
    STvex Member Posts: 71
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    Thank you for the comments.  I replaced both the spill switch and flame roll out which didn't cost that much but still the burner won't turn on.. at this point multi meter to check each part?
  • WMno57
    WMno57 Member Posts: 1,396
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    Yes. Get the multi meter.
    I DIY.
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 5,876
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    Should there be a Green light lit on the low water cut off?