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Toilet next to steam radiator

SteamedInWharton
SteamedInWharton Member Posts: 62
The toilet in the master bath is too close to the steam radiator to use in the winter. I'm getting ready to do a major overhaul on the bathroom (mold damage). The vanity/cabinets on the other side toilet will be replaced and can be relocated.

I think I have several options:
  • Replumb the lines under the room (in the crawlspace) so the toilet can be moved (mix of cast iron and PVC)
  • Use an offset flange. But I'm not a fan as it may impede flushing and flushing/clogging is already an issue
  • Try to move the radiator: maybe replacing the right-angle valve with an elbow, nipple, and in line valve will shift it away from the toilet. Possibly combine this with a new radiator that is taller but has fewer sections
  • Reposition the flange and bolts so the toilet can be at a slight angle. Awkward?
Any thoughts?
Steaming along slowly in Wharton, Morris County, NJ.

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 19,966
    Without really looking at the whole space... hard to say. If you have a mold problem, though, I hope you are taking up the floor while you are at it.

    In which case I'd probably look at some combination of your first and third options. I agree that offset flanges can give trouble -- particularly with the low flush toilets, and the fourth option? Um... no, not really!
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 13,562

    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
    SteamedInWhartonEdTheHeaterManIntplm.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 6,688
    While you have it open, would it be reasonable to swap the toilet and vanity? Or are there clearance issues in front? The vanity doesn't care if it is 6" away from the radiator. You might be more concerned on the toilet.
  • SteamedInWharton
    SteamedInWharton Member Posts: 62
    mattmia2 said:

    While you have it open, would it be reasonable to swap the toilet and vanity? Or are there clearance issues in front? The vanity doesn't care if it is 6" away from the radiator. You might be more concerned on the toilet.

    Might be possible, depends on the exact door swing, how big the new vanity is, etc.
    Steaming along slowly in Wharton, Morris County, NJ.
  • SteamedInWharton
    SteamedInWharton Member Posts: 62

    Without really looking at the whole space... hard to say. If you have a mold problem, though, I hope you are taking up the floor while you are at it.

    In which case I'd probably look at some combination of your first and third options. I agree that offset flanges can give trouble -- particularly with the low flush toilets, and the fourth option? Um... no, not really!

    I know some of the subfloor under the tile must go as it's rotting. Not sure how much of the rest of the floor will go. Tile's a simple white with red center design so if it isn't entirely replaced, a similar pattern could be found to cover any new holes.

    The toilet will be replaced (cracked near the bolt holes), vanity replaced (internal mold damage from a leaking can of cleaner), along with the never-worked spa tub/shower stall (which is also too high for easy entry), and I imagine a lot of the plaster and maybe some studs as well.
    Steaming along slowly in Wharton, Morris County, NJ.
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 19,966

    Without really looking at the whole space... hard to say. If you have a mold problem, though, I hope you are taking up the floor while you are at it.

    In which case I'd probably look at some combination of your first and third options. I agree that offset flanges can give trouble -- particularly with the low flush toilets, and the fourth option? Um... no, not really!

    I know some of the subfloor under the tile must go as it's rotting. Not sure how much of the rest of the floor will go. Tile's a simple white with red center design so if it isn't entirely replaced, a similar pattern could be found to cover any new holes.

    The toilet will be replaced (cracked near the bolt holes), vanity replaced (internal mold damage from a leaking can of cleaner), along with the never-worked spa tub/shower stall (which is also too high for easy entry), and I imagine a lot of the plaster and maybe some studs as well.
    Given all that, I'd start with a blank sheet and redesign the whole space. Don't try to fudge it -- around any of the plumbing or heating pipes. They can be moved to suit, and you will (or at least I would) be happier with a clean sheet redesign. If it turned out you didn't have to move something, so much the better.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    mattmia2PC7060JakeCKDanHolohan
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 12,664
    I would draw the bathroom floor to scale. Then cut some paper with a scissors make one the size of the radiator, one the size of the vanity and one the size of the toilet. Put them on the scaled drawing and move them around until you like the layout.

    It's probably easier to relocate the radiator than the other two.
    Larry WeingartenSteamedInWharton
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 17,543
    The plumbing code does have a defined space required for WC, 30” at one time, excepting accessibility installations. Is the radiator on an outside wall?
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • SteamedInWharton
    SteamedInWharton Member Posts: 62
    hot_rod said:

    The plumbing code does have a defined space required for WC, 30” at one time, excepting accessibility installations. Is the radiator on an outside wall?

    Yes it's on an outside wall.
    Steaming along slowly in Wharton, Morris County, NJ.