HVAC brazing torch

hot_rod

Even if the tip isn't red hot when you turn them down, don't set it on anything that will melt, like fleece clothes, nylon work gloves, someones carpet, etc.
Anything but full speed and the tip is hotter that you can touch.

ChrisJ

So I was just given another B tank and it came with a turbo torch setup for the sof flame tips.  Only I guess I need to read something because I couldn't get the handle to work the way I thought it should.  


Off topic but what are normal N2 sizes carried by most places?  I have a 60 and want to get a second tank but am considering an 80.  Just not sure if that's a mistake, I recall the 60 being an odd ball that I may dread one day.  Maybe not?

hot_rod

I couldn't get the handle to work the way I thought it should
Can you elaborate a bit?
If the set up has been sitting for as while it could have an insect nest in the tip, torch, hose?

Where do you buy you tank refills? Most welding supply have a wide range of tank sizes sitting, ready to go. Do you need to refill the N2 often?

ChrisJ

hot_rod said:

I couldn't get the handle to work the way I thought it should Can you elaborate a bit? If the set up has been sitting for as while it could have an insect nest in the tip, torch, hose? Where do you buy you tank refills? Most welding supply have a wide range of tank sizes sitting, ready to go. Do you need to refill the N2 often?

I've only used my swirl tip handle which I'm used to.  This one the tips thread into it and it says lock with and arrow but absolutely nothing turns other than unscrewing the tip.

I haven't actually tried to light it yet trying to understand what the knurled part and the lock is about first.

I've swapped tanks at Airgas and I can from a local welding supply but I'm curious what "normal" and readily available everywhere is for N2.   I'm guessing 20s and 40s are normal.

mattmia2

I think that may be a quick connect that you pull the ring to release. That type of quick connect tends to freeze up if it gets a little corroded.

ChrisJ

mattmia2 said:

I think that may be a quick connect that you pull the ring to release. That type of quick connect tends to freeze up if it gets a little corroded.

I think it's made to allow the tip to rotate and lock but it doesn't want to move 

Somehow I started this thread to get a hotter torch and so far all I've got is a cooler one. 

How do the sof flame tips compare to a typical propane torch?  

And more importantly why use an S-4 instead of a swirl tip like an A-2 or A-3?

@Steve Minnich
@hot_rod

hot_rod

Noise, for one thing, all the swirl tips I have used scream.  This ST-3 dual fuel registers 86 db.
I don't think you are supposed to adjust them down much. Once the flame is burning at or in the tip, they over-heat. I've melted the swirl plate out of them running them turned down.

The standard acetylene only tips, like this Prestolite at 77 db full open can be adjusted over a wide range. Mostly quiet a low turndown.

As for oxy/ acetylene welding tips, you have a lot of flame adjustment, neutral, carburized, and oxidizing. A pinpoint flame for close in brazing. Much hotter flame with O2 and acetylene blended.

It comes down to what you are trying to solder, braze, weld. And personal preference to some degree.

The tip you showed looks pretty hammered, corroded.  Possibly a WD 40 bath could make it behave better?

Tinman

I started using strictly propane for soft soldering 20 years ago. That’s all you need. 

Brazing needs acetylene or oxy/acetylene. I think you should practice brazing till you get the hang of it. If it doesn’t flow you need a bigger tip and once you find one that gets it to flow, learn how how to keep it moving around the diameter while you fill. A swaging tool would be great for that so you don’t waste fittings. Some might disagree with this but while brazing I don’t move the torch until I get it flowing in that specific spot. Then I just walk it around the fitting. I also bend the last 3” of the stick before I start. It’s easier to pinpoint your spot IMO. 

EBEBRATT-Ed

And if your only soft soldering propane is (or was) a lot cheaper and if you have one of the aluminum tanks it is a lot lighter holds more propane and lasts longer.

ChrisJ

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

And if your only soft soldering propane is (or was) a lot cheaper and if you have one of the aluminum tanks it is a lot lighter holds more propane and lasts longer.

That's the issue I have.
I have no idea how propane compares to a B tank as far as cost.

Yes, the tank is heavier, but what's the actual cost? A B tank doesn't cost much to swap.

EBEBRATT-Ed

A brand-new propane tank (Mcmaster Carr) is around $100-150 depending on size.

Or use your barbecue grill tank....heavy when full.

ChrisJ

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

A brand-new propane tank (Mcmaster Carr) is around $100-150 depending on size. Or use your barbecue grill tank....heavy when full.

I'm talking strictly fuel cost 

B tank refill vs lpg and how much fuel you actually get.

Though after thinking about it, the amount of soldering I do it's probably not very important.   I've already got two  B tanks.

Hopefully they won't do away with them any time soon.  

mattmia2

Either refillable tank is far less than a disposable tank.