Noritz NRCB 199 error code 54 on two of four zones

ManiaMike

I get error code 54 on two of my four zones when heat is called on just that zone. If heat is requested on the failing stand alone zone with any other zone, all is fine. Two of the zones can work with just that zone on. When the zones work the in floor heat works well. I tried swapping a working valve with a not working zone and no help.

mattmia2

Are these all simple zones or are some of them being mixed down for radiant or something? If it is simple zones, are they zoned by valve or circulator? My guess is valve and the end switch wiring isn't connected to 2 of the zones.

You don't have the heat exchanger leaks, do you?

ManiaMike

They are valve and work correctly as long as one of the other working valves are on. Call zones 1 2 3 4. 1 and 2 can work independently if thermostat request heat. 3 and 4 cause the error only if they run independently. So if 1 and 3 or 4 both are calling for heat all is good, but if 1 shuts off and 3 or 4 is on I get the error code. I am going to replace the expansion tank (been several years since its been replaced) and see if that helps. I can always wire valve 1 and 3 to and 2 and 4 together basically turning my 4 valve to two valve, but would rather they work independently. To get by and test I have been turning them on this way, but I have to leave on a warm room longer than I would normally.

mattmia2

Is the circulator running when the problem zones are calling alone?

ManiaMike

Yes off and on. They turn on and all looks good for a few seconds then error code 54 boiler shuts down circulator shut off. Boiler turns on and circulator kick in a few seconds over and over, but new boiler so I turn off thermostat so doesn't cycle.

Zman

Have you figured out what code 54 means? On some models, it appears to mean low-pressure https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/161210/noritz-combi-nightmare.
If this is the case, I would want to know what the system pressure is and how the unit is piped. Pictures would help.

hcpatel78

I have noritz CB199 combi set for radiant heat. It sets up 54 error code when system pressure is lower then set pressure.  What I found out that it has internal autofeed valve has a very large range to open and close. Also I don't trust that feeder as it shows for 2-3 hours it's feeding water but some how not getting to the set pressure. So to resolve this issue I install external autofeeder valve and line at the bottom of my Air seperater. I used Callefi brand feeder with gage. That brought it up my system pressure at set pressure and the error code is gone. You need to reset the combi boiler by switching off from inside reset switch. Also if there is an air in heat exchanger part then also same error codes show up.If that is the case you need to flush it manually properly by using those service valve. The Callefi autofeeder works for +/- 1 psi grande of set pressure. So it is perfectly working for this situation.

Zman

There is quite a bit of advice being given with almost no details provided by OP.
What is the system pressure?
Is it piped primary/secondary?
Are the circs pumping toward or away from the expansion tank?
If you answer these questions and/or post some pictures of piping your problem should be solved quickly, otherwise, you will continue to get WAGS (wild a$$ guesses).

ManiaMike

Zman I get you want pictures, but I am not that good with the camera....if you need a different view let me know. hcpatel78 I have the Callefii feeder to and it is holding the pressure to 12 when the boiler is static, but when heat rises to 14.5 not that I care about heated water raises. I am not using the boiler auto feeder. I do not have a heat exchanger. My old boiler fluctuated from cold to hot from 12 to 15. I know the expansion tank is wrong because its a portable water tank. I have one on order will be in next week. I have two pumps. One comes from the hot water output after the expansion and the other on the return feed.

mattmia2

The potable water tank should be fine. You can't use a heating tank on potable water because it is not designed for an open system but the potable water tank should be fine on a closed heating system. Can you show us what type of tubing is used for the radiant?

Zman

If you can take pictures from farther back it would help, or maybe just sketch the heating pipes. Does the problem go away if you bump the pressure up a bit?

Your system either has low pressure at the boiler (at least intermittently) due to a piping/circulator piping issue (assuming the gauge is correct) or it thinks it has low pressure, likely due to a bad sensor. If you flick that gauge, does it bounce? (The scary thing is that I know commercial airline pilots that do the same thing)

mattmia2

I sort of wonder seeing the potable tank and what looks like a nonferrous circulator if the tubing is non oxygen barrier and the boiler circulator has failed but with the zones that do work the system circulator is inducing enough flow in the boiler (or maybe dropping the pressure in the boiler on the zones that don't work)

Zman

Your piping is interesting, to say the least. The soldering is clean but the piping is a hot mess. Unions over pump flanges and pex to the boiler are red flags. Was this a homeowner boiler replacement?
By the looks of it, you have an extra circulator and 4 way mixing valve. The manufacturer thinks it should be piped like this and I agree.

ManiaMike

Just lousy plumbers. I am a GC and hired the best boiler plumbers. Are best is horrible because we live in the desert and no one uses a boiler. I have all tile on a cement slab, so I like radiant verses rugs every ware. My problem is fixed. I replace the potable water tank that seems to be ok with a non potable and problem went away. 4 zones working independently. I am thanking all and leaving well enough alone. Until next time Thank You one and all.