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Redoing my large system. Need help with how to organize it.
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rsilvers
Member Posts: 182
in Oil Heating
I am replacing my ~32 year old Burnham with a G215/5. It's a large system that has four hydro-air units, two radiant manifolds (one that they plastered into a wall with no access door that I only discovered when it leaked), and a garage unit. I will wait until Spring to tear it out so I am under no time pressure, and the hot water will come from a heat-pump tank because I have solar-electric.
This system makes my brain hurt to even look at it. I think what I need to do is establish a primary loop with 1.5 inch pipe over to an empty wall. Once I have that in place, I can have the other systems attach to the loop - which I would probably do with 3/4 and 1 inch ProPex. I know that low temp things like radiant should be last on the loop. I sure wish the original installer made labels for what each pipe goes to and comes from.
Looking for suggestions.
Video: https://youtu.be/yuZ18ufr-Cg
This system makes my brain hurt to even look at it. I think what I need to do is establish a primary loop with 1.5 inch pipe over to an empty wall. Once I have that in place, I can have the other systems attach to the loop - which I would probably do with 3/4 and 1 inch ProPex. I know that low temp things like radiant should be last on the loop. I sure wish the original installer made labels for what each pipe goes to and comes from.
Looking for suggestions.
Video: https://youtu.be/yuZ18ufr-Cg
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Comments
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I like mounting things to walls. Even if I have to build one with studs and (ideally) good grade 3/4” plywood. Laid out so that it is intuitive. At least to me. Enough space that I can get to it. Piping on stand offs. Waist high for water. Well supported. Tees and caps headed down to the floor to support what I do in black pipe. A few extra plugs and tees in case I want to add things. Don’t have to bend over if it is waist high. And I am getting up in years. Wiring goes on the wall, in conduit, about a foot higher. Less water headed towards the electrical stuff if I need to replace a pump. Liberal on isolation valves, places to vent air, drains. Heavy on instrumentation so I can see what it’s up to. And to help balance things.
I am a newcomer to pex. And store bought manifolds. Which is easier. I have had a tendency to build my own controls out of surplus parts and left overs. I color code zones etc with whatever colors of THHN wire I have on hand. Grew up poor so it is an old habit. Works for me. Not a pro so take it with a grain of salt.You will probably come out ahead if you hire a true pro and can be done with it. I can’t help myself and it is a bit of a hobby. So I do it. Nice part in doing it yourself is that you understand it. If the heat goes out, you can diagnose it and fix it. With parts on hand. Usually.
Best wishes3 -
Actually what you have doesn’t look that bad. Can always be better. Could re use much of it. Cleaned up of course.0
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It's about $10K extra to hire a pro vs me doing it and then paying a plumber to tighten the last fitting and get an inspection. I really want to do it myself. I am doing my oil burner exam this month.
Looking at it again, I think I should clean it up. Change the broken radiant mixer to a mechanical diverter. Raise up the zone valves about 18 inches. Move the pipes to connect to the rear of the new boiler. Replace the corroded stuff. Do a HydroLevel Outdoor Reset Primary.0 -
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I have two zones of radiant on this large system, and one 007 circulator feeds into the two zone valves for them using 1 inch copper to the Pex manifolds. The 007 is 23 GPM. Does that seem too much flow? The entire boiler is a 1.9 max firing rate, but these are just a portion of the entire heating system.
I am replacing this portion now as it needs new o-rings at the very least, but want to change the flanges and motor also.
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Double check the part number on that circulator. I don't think it is the standard 007. From the sensors, it appears to be a variable speed delta T circulator.0
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I got the part number off the data plate. The sensors are for the ProMix 101.
In any case, I decided to use an Alpha2 pump instead of this.0 -
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WOW, I certainly didn't expect such a drastic change. Well done!
So........ how does it perform?0 -
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looks great0
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nice job
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Someone needs to learn about stove pipe crimping and which way the flow of the gasses in the pipe go!Really... I'm Impressed
Job well done
Click on the Spoiler above.Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics0 -
Whether right or wrong, I would intentionally put male side pointing down so that any moisture stays inside the pipe instead of leaking out and corroding the outside of the pipe.
And I love that you soldered the joints instead of using that o-ring crimp crap.0 -
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It is working perfectly once I got the Nest thermostats to have C wires by adding FAST-STAT Common Maker Thermostat Wire Extenders. An awesome product.
I used a compressor and pressure tested it to 45 psi before filling it. I didn't go higher because if a soldier joint failed in some wall in the house, I would have not been able to repair it.0
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