Are there thermostat panels?

rsilvers

I have a mess of wires and I wanted to use terminal blocks with labels to make it easier to maintain 

Are there are preexisting thermostat patch panels or wiring boxes that you hook each one up to and then to 24v and then to the zone valves?

DJD775

Are you referring to the rats nest of wires at your zone valves? If so a zone valve control panel would clean that up.
https://www.tacocomfort.com/product/zone-valve-controls/

rsilvers

Yeah. I will check that out. 

Jamie Hall

If you are not in a position to use something like that zone control panel -- you only need to tidy up the wiring -- there are any number of terminal strips available (try DigiKey) in a dizzying array of configurations and styles.

rsilvers

I ordered the controller. Actually it's more than I envisioned with the fuses and LEDs to test out the thermostats and stuff - but perfect. It should be there. Thank you - this forum is a lot more helpful than some of the Facebook technical groups where people either don't know anything or won't share what they know.

rsilvers

For the wire that goes from the transformers to the 24v input on the Taco Controller - I assume 18 gauge solid wire is ok for this? Or does it need a thicker gauge?

What about the generally blue TT wire that goes to the aquastat relay? Can I use 18 gauge solid wire from the Taco controller to that relay? I assume so, but wanted to ask.

DJD775

@rsilvers The zone panel has a built in transformer so you would run 120v directly to the panel, typically 14 or 12 gauge depending on the circuit.
18 gauge should be OK for the 24v wiring.
https://www.tacocomfort.com/documents/FileLibrary/102-391.pdf

rsilvers

Ok. I saw the schematic but I thought it used my external transformers. I will bring some NM-B and clamps then. 

Currently my single circulator is connected to the aquastat C terminals. 

I think I am supposed to disconnect it from there and connect it to the output of the Taco controller so that it can circulate if any zone value is open?

And if so, does that do anything better than when it was wired to my old Honeywell Aquastat? 

DJD775

I think you would be fine leaving the circulator as is. The end switch on the panel won't close until the zone valve is open and then the circulator would operate upon T T closing.

SteveSan

@rsilvers Please give Taco a call when you are installing your ZVC control and we can walk you through the installation 401-942-8000 we are here Mon-Fri 8am-5pm EST. Just ask for Tech Support.

rsilvers

I understand it now. That is useful as rewiring the circulator is difficult since it is already in armored cable and I would rather not replace that wiring.

I am really happy about the existence of this controller and disappointed that the previous installer cheeped out and made it much more difficult to service the system by looping a mess of unlabled wires.

rsilvers

I see they ran the blue TT wire through the same conduit to the Primary as the 120v AC. Is that going to be rejected on a future permit inspection when I later change the boiler?

DJD775

I'm not an electrician but I believe that is acceptable. Best to check the NEC or your local code to make sure it's acceptable.

rsilvers

From reading around, it is ok as long if the wire has a voltage insulation rating at or over 120v. I made sure to buy 300v 18 gauge blue wire.

That being said, mixing power wire and signal wire in the same conduit is not allowed. If the inspector thinks a TT is a signal wire, then it wouldn't be allowed. I think TT is a 24v power wire because it directly energizes a relay in the aquastat and that does work when it forces the contacts closed, but someone could say that is a signal wire since it is used for signaling. The goal is to not have induction trigger the signal, but that can't make the relay move.