PVC ball valve for skim?

Don_175

I would like to skim our boiler. There is a 1.5” skim tap with a plug. A brass valve is close to $40 but a threaded PVC valve is $12. If I use black iron for the nipples and a 90 degree elbow, can I add the PVC valve on the vertical nipple? I would also use a black iron tee to watch water flow on horizontal section.  It says PVC valve good to 140 degrees but the trickle of water should be relatively minor. I don’t anticipate doing this regularly so I would remove when done. Thanks 

mattmia2

No. PVC is only good up to 120 degrees or so. You should really just go with the brass valve. You could maybe save some cost with a globe or gate valve.

SteamingatMohawk

During the heating season, how likely is it that the temperature of boiler water will be less than that?

You don't need brass or bronze. Keep shopping for a lower price, especially if you don't keep it installed.

Aside: Cardinal rule on posted on HH rules of the site, "Do not post pricing. This could lead to price fixing, which is illegal."

JUGHNE

Do you even need a valve?
Just an open pipe with tees or 90 to direct the small stream down to a bucket without splashing.

The flow should be controlled by the water supply coming into the bottom of the boiler.
You want the water level to just skim over the top of the boiler. And slowly float the oils off the top of the water.

Cap piping when done.

As you said this is not done often.

mattmia2

Could also turn down to a 90 and reduce to a 1/2" or 3/4" valve which would cost much less. I like the valves with npt on one end and hose thread on the other and an attached hose thread cap.

ethicalpaul

I love having a valve on mine: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-BVT150-1-1-2-Full-Port-Threaded-Ball-Valve-Lead-Free

Don_175

Found brass one on eBay. Thanks guys. 

ChrisJ

I used to have a ball valve on my skim port.
I no longer do as debris etc destroyed the ball. After that I switched to a brass coupler and a brass plug.

I then dropped the brass plug and damaged the threads so I then used a steel plug I had on hand. That's where I'm at. A brass coupler runs about $20 at SupplyHouse.

You could probably use steel, but I felt with brass I could always be sure it would come apart.

EBEBRATT-Ed

come out with a nipple full size a reducing 90 down then a cheap 1/2 or 3/4" boiler drain. You only need a trickle. Remove the boiler drain and plug it when your done. Or as @JUGHNE said you don't have to have a valve.

Corktown

After reading several threads, it seems like some folks don’t use a ball valve in this application and others do. Would the intended purpose of the ball valve near the end of the skim piping be so one could fine tune the flow of water out of the skim port or is it used more as a “rapid shut off“?

Or something else? ....

JUGHNE

I believe you want to fine tune the water flow with the cold water supply coming into the boiler.
If you throttle the outlet on top you may not get the top, skim the cream if you will, off the water surface.
IMO.

Dan_NJ

Corktown said:

After reading several threads, it seems like some folks don’t use a ball valve in this application and others do. Would the intended purpose of the ball valve near the end of the skim piping be so one could fine tune the flow of water out of the skin port or is it used more as a “rapid shut off“?

Or something else? ....

I have a locking ball valve, and a plug in the end of it (I had one lying around anyhow) for easy access to add water treatments, and to skim if I ever needed to again. The plug is on there not super tight. Enough to prevent a big blast in case someone opened the valve by mistake.

You would regulate the flow by limiting the flow of makeup water into the boiler. You want the skim opening to be a straight shot out the end of the pipe.

Hap_Hazzard

If I had a skim port, I'd put a ball valve on it.

I found a ¾" port under the relief valve that I use, but it's not in the best location, and it takes a long time to skim through a ¾" pipe, but that's okay. You guys have fun with your 1¼" skim ports.

ChrisJ

Hap_Hazzard said:

If I had a skim port, I'd put a ball valve on it. I found a ¾" port under the relief valve that I use, but it's not in the best location, and it takes a long time to skim through a ¾" pipe, but that's okay. You guys have fun with your 1¼" skim ports.

1 1/2......

Hap_Hazzard

Ball valves, as a rule, are strictly on/off valves. They're not designed for throttling because they open all the way in a quarter of a turn, and the change in flow per degree of rotation is far from linear or anything approaching intuitive.

Don_175

Do you guys leave the skim pipe on? I used a 6” nipple and full port ball valve. My manufacturer says to remove when done skimming. I had put the plug in the valve in case anyone opened it while the boiler was hot. Would it be a problem to leave the skim apparatus in place?

ChrisJ

Mine is on and plugged, no valve.

Here's mine a week ago after I gave it a good cleaning and before the Steamaster tablets had time to dissolve.  

Don_175

Yeah. I figured it was fine to leave on. Thanks 

StevenNYC

@ChrisJ

ChrisJ said:

Mine is on and plugged, no valve.

Here's mine a week ago after I gave it a good cleaning and before the Steamaster tablets had time to dissolve.  

Really cool site glass. What brand is that? I like the drain valve to keep it clean. Are those all quarter inch fittings?

ChrisJ

StevenNYC said:

@ChrisJ

Mine is on and plugged, no valve.

Here's mine a week ago after I gave it a good cleaning and before the Steamaster tablets had time to dissolve.  

Really cool site glass. What brand is that? I like the drain valve to keep it clean. Are those all quarter inch fittings?

I think they're all 1/4" npt.

Google "Redline gauge glass".

ethicalpaul

Mine is left on with a ball valve and no cap because no one messes with my boiler