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Need help finding replacement for ancient circulator.
Hockeypuck
Member Posts: 5
System: GE down-draft boiler, hot water/radiator. Age: 60+ years
Parts that need to be repaired/replaced: circulator motor and perhaps pump.
Sunday morning the motor on my circulator fried. Parts are no longer made, and the modern motors do not appear to be able to be modified to work. The shaft on the pump can be turned, but I’m not certain if there was any internal damage.
The best suggestion I’ve had was to find a plumber willing to remove the old 4-bolt flange circulator, (approx. 12”) and replace with a new unit and motor. New units seem to be all 2-bolt, and significantly shorter than the old one. It may very well be an industrial pump.
I’m trying to find parts; does anyone have a source for a circulator and motor from the stone age?
Parts that need to be repaired/replaced: circulator motor and perhaps pump.
Sunday morning the motor on my circulator fried. Parts are no longer made, and the modern motors do not appear to be able to be modified to work. The shaft on the pump can be turned, but I’m not certain if there was any internal damage.
The best suggestion I’ve had was to find a plumber willing to remove the old 4-bolt flange circulator, (approx. 12”) and replace with a new unit and motor. New units seem to be all 2-bolt, and significantly shorter than the old one. It may very well be an industrial pump.
I’m trying to find parts; does anyone have a source for a circulator and motor from the stone age?
0
Comments
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Wow, an original GE circulator!
You'll need to replace the flanges and change the length of one of the pipes for a new circ to fit.
How much radiation is on the system? Was it originally a gravity system?All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
The tech that looked at it says it’s a gravity system, but I think otherwise: he left the furnace on so it would “gravity heat”, but radiators have been cold for 48 hours.
House is a small two-story; four radiators upstairs, seven on main floor.0 -
Do you have a old school compression tank up in the joists near the boiler? There may be a valve similar to the one below which can be adjusted to allow gravity flow. Post a few pictures of the tank and valve so we can get a better idea of the layout.0
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A tank is in one spot, and what looks like an emergency pressure release in another.
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The green tank is part of the thrush system like the one in the photo I posted.
Can you find a part number or patent number on the red egg?
Edited: Based on the label its a combo feed and over pressure relief valve.Can you post a picture showing the connection to the green tank?0 -
The 1/6 hp would be a starting point to identify that circulators capacityBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
A magnetic dirt separator would probably be a good idea too to protect the new wet rotor pump. This isn't by any chance monoflow?0
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Not that, it’s a relief valve.
You’re looking for a flow control valve. Turning the lever fully clockwise will raise the disc inside to allow gravity flow.
Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
That red grenade thing looks like it is just a very old pressure relief valve.
Er relief and pressure reducing feed valve combo.0 -
The green tank simply has a pipe connected; no valves, no settings.0
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Yes but what does it connect to? The red egg?0
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The water will want to flow up from the boiler into the distribution pipes. Look for a large valve in line with the primary flow piping. It’s probably a large pipe 1-1/2 to 2”.Post a picture of the boiler and the upper piping.0
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Other than the pressure relief egg, there doesn’t appear to be any control valves, only shut-off valves.
The green tank is above and about 3’ to the right of the furnace.The red egg is above and about 3’ to the left of the furnace. There is no direct connection.
I can make a short video “tour” tomorrow morning.
BTW, the system has no doubt been Frankensteined over the decades.
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Should be something like this configuration.
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There is no reason for a flow check valve if there is a single zone and dhw comes from a different source. If it is monoflow it won't circulate through the emitters very well without the circulator.
What we've seen so far looks pretty original to the 1940'sHockeypuck said:
BTW, the system has no doubt been Frankensteined over the decades.
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That's the oldest B&g fill valve I've seen. The pump, if added would be restricting gravity flow along with if there is a flo check. Good luck figuring out. Won't need much flow if old gravity. 1558 probably.0
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What type of radiators and how many sq feet is house?0
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@Hockeypuck, some pictures of the mains where a radiator or 2 connects from far enough back to see the whole picture would tell us some things too.0
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Flanges will be very dificult to match up to a new pump. I suspect that is a older Thrush pump, most GE boilers in NJ were fitted with Thrush or Taco circulator pumps. I would suggest a 1725 rpm pump again as you likely need volume and not a lot of head.0
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What is the purpose of the second circulator (B&G) in that last picture?0
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Thrush is still in business. Maybe they have a new motor or circulator for you.ScottSecor said:I suspect that is a older Thrush pump, most GE boilers in NJ were fitted with Thrush or Taco circulator pumps.
https://www.thrushco.com/hydronic-pumpsThrush Company, Inc.
340 W. 8th Street
Peru, IN 46970
Phone: 765-472-33510 -
I noticed no one suggested looking into having the motor itself repaired. Electric motor ships have the ability to repair most issues with motors, and obviously this can be costly but from the look of things, you’re well into costly territory as is. New circulators are not cheap to begin with and it certainly will require some tripping work as well. Just a thought. And seeing marvelously well built machines from a long lost time when they were made to last is near and dear to my heart so selfishly I’d love to see that old chunk of iron go for many more years. Anyway, hope all works out well.2
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I'm not convinced that the motor isn't a common shaft and mounting format although not the standard form.0
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If the pump volute and rotor are ok, and bearing is ok, maybe fabrication of a bracket to adapt any 1725 rpm motor that is roughly the same size could be considered. Or 2 pulleys and a belt. Not a great solution but better than no heat. I grew up in an environment where such patches had to be considered. No choice. Things are different now. Grateful for that. Still helpful in a jam.0
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