Need to kick Beckett AFG burner to start

ARR

My oil burner with Beckett 7505 has decided to start going into lockout where I must hit the reset button to start it again. Sometimes it fires up, sometimes it doesn't until I literally kick the front of it right under the transformer or give it a strong tap. 
Any ideas what it could be? I don't see anything loose. Pics attached for reference.

Jamie Hall

You may not see anything loose, but something is. You really need to get a competent tech in there to find out what is loose and fix it. Shouldn't be that hard for a competent person.

And don't ever hit the reset button more than once. You stand a good chance of flooding the combustion chamber with oil, which can have very exciting results if and when it does decide to ignite.

ARR

Thanks for the quick reply, Jamie. 
Any thoughts on what it could be just for my understanding? It seems like a pretty simple burner.
And I have heard the warnings about pressing reset too much. I only have to press it once, it either starts or I give it a bump after pressing it and it starts.

Robert O'Brien

Most likely a bad start switch in motor, you have no fire safety valve. It's required by NFPA 31

ARR

Robert O'Brien said:

Most likely a bad start switch in motor, you have no fire safety valve. It's required by NFPA 31

I just found some other comments that make me think that's the case.

And I'll look into the valve. Thanks.

HVACNUT

Get a PSC 3450 burner motor. 
The fan takes an 1/8" Allen wrench on the hub. There's a slot in one of the blades if you have a T handle Allen wrench. 
If it doesn't come off easy, use some grit cloth and penetrating oil. If the blades are caked up with muck, get a new AFG fan wheel as well. The burner will need readjustment with a new fan if the old one had a lot of buildup. 
Some suppliers also offer AFG couplings cut to size if you really want to go nuts.

STEVEusaPA

Well I'd have a competent tech confirm a bad motor before condemning. Could also be a bad primary. You can check out the motor by ohming the primary leads, and using your meter on ohms to find the bad spot in the winding or the bad start switch.
But like @HVACNUT said, gonna need a full combustion test afterwards. I wouldn't even waste my time with the old wheel, unless it's pristine, get a new one. Any damage, even minor is going to become a problem. Gap the wheel before you take it off.

MikeAmann

Shouldn't there be at least a grommet in the hole where the cable for the fuel cutoff valve comes out?
Missing that would screw up the air adjustment, correct?

STEVEusaPA

@MikeAmann usually not if the proper gasket is on the transformer. That little area at the knockout on the back where it says 'Beckett' has an open knockout on the other side going into the box under the primary. And in this case, another one where the motor wiring goes into the housing.

JakeCK

Sorry, couldn't resist:
https://youtu.be/bifOI4MbHVU?t=22

Edit: aw the time didn't work on the link. Skip to 22s. 

HVACNUT

That transformer weighs 47 pounds. 1 screw is fine. If it was a SS igniter, then 2 screws are a must.