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HO Delta Faucet Repair/Replace, Anchor Slop Sink Feet

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D107
D107 Member Posts: 1,860
edited December 2021 in Plumbing
Replaced waste connections successfully last Spring; now old faucet drips until firmly tightened. 4" center spread--see photos. Looks pretty straightforward to replace except I don't know how easily those nuts onto the copper line will loosen or compromise the line and create a bigger problem. Or it could just be in need of new washers....?
If replacing I would use the newer flex cables to the hot and cold supplies, and I would need a faucet with a 3/4 threaded spout for hose lines.



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  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,675
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    The big nuts to the faucet itself may be pretty standard, and that looks like a pretty standard arrangement. My first pass would be to undo them, take the old faucet out and put a new one in.

    Doesn't always work.

    The connections in the second photo are really scuzzy, and trying to get a good clean connection on the copper pipes ... I don't think so. At least I wouldn't even try. Cut back to somewhere where the pipe is clean and start over.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    D107
  • JakeCK
    JakeCK Member Posts: 1,418
    edited December 2021
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    Those utility sink faucets are pretty cheap. Replace it. I fought with mine and its broken handle for years before I finally manned up and replaced it. Kicked my self for not doing it sooner. 

    My guess is that its a standard 4" on center. Measure to make sure.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-Classic-4-in-Centerset-2-Handle-Bathroom-Faucet-with-Extended-Spout-in-Chrome-2131LF/203614218?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US

    And they are easy to replace. Find the shut off and just cut off the copper back to where its clean(er). Sweat new copper, or if its clean close enough use a compression fitting and the faucet hose to that. Or if you really want to get everyone's panties up in a bunch use a sharkbite. The old pros here really hate those. lol

    MikeAmannD107
  • D107
    D107 Member Posts: 1,860
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    Thanks for your thoughts @Jamie Hall and @JakeCK. I'm not set up to sweat copper etc. Getting at those under-faucet connections looks problematic without dis-assembling drain connections and moving sink for access. I may try to get lucky with new washers, etc.
  • JakeCK
    JakeCK Member Posts: 1,418
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    Suit yourself. That is a very easy repair. 

    When you are forced to replace that faucet that sink probably sits on a metal plate bolted to the wall if it doesn't have legs. The set screws that hold it to that plate are probably on top by the soap trays or behind the faucet. They are probably nasty too and will require some muscle to remove. However disconnecting the trap, cutting the nasty old supply lines and getting those screws out should allow you to lift the sink right up off of there and is pretty light. It will make fixing all of that easy.
    MikeAmannD107
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,981
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    Just replace the washers. unless it is really ancient(like pre wwii) the stems, handles, and seats should be available if it gets more involved. The older ones were made with heavier brass than modern ones. If you do get a new one, make sure it isn't mostly plastic. Should be able to just remove the nuts with a basin wrench and connect a new one to the old supply lines if you go that way.
    D107
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,981
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    Actually, seeing the plastic jam nuts it might be washerless.
    D107
  • D107
    D107 Member Posts: 1,860
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    Thanks @JakeCK as far as I can see whoever haphazardly put this in long before we arrived bolted nothing to the wall--or through the feet either, so the drain and water assemblies are the only things holding this. I know if the valves are worn or any threads are stripped then faucet would have to be replaced anyway, but what I lack in plumbing skills I partially make up for in knowing when to try the easiest route first to avoid the larger job that requires professional help. As a homeowner I'm sure you know it's never 'the right time' to fix things completely--until it is.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,981
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    If you take the handles off and take a picture we could tell you more.
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,675
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    A gentle suggestion -- before you start doing anything with it, please make sure you can shut off the water to it without shutting off the whole house...
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    mattmia2JakeCKD107
  • D107
    D107 Member Posts: 1,860
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    Thanks @mattmia2 Attached photos of uncovered faucet and whole slop sink. Probably from the late 70s--mid-80s best guess.



  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,981
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    A gentle suggestion -- before you start doing anything with it, please make sure you can shut off the water to it without shutting off the whole house...

    I'm betting you will have to at least deal with some packing on the shutoffs.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,981
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    That's a delta washerless. You can replace the seats and springs. Sometimes you need to replace the whole cartridge if the disc is worn or damaged.
  • MikeAmann
    MikeAmann Member Posts: 998
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    Since the sink is not anchored, once you disconnect the water lines, all that is left holding it is the drain. There is a trap there, correct. Disconnect that and you can move the entire sink to an open area, flip it upside-down, and easily do the work. KISS method.
    JakeCK
  • D107
    D107 Member Posts: 1,860
    edited December 2021
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    So I took the cold faucet apart, found everything in relatively good shape considering we've been using it for 23 years and the prior residents about 12. The thick O-ring within the stem had shed some rubber but seemed ok. I toothbrush cleaned the stem, seat and springs, and put silicone lube on stem and seat, put it back together and now it works. (I see on Youtube some plumbers add some teflon tape to the stemp shaft and thick O-ring for extra longevity).
    I will order the parts anyway and replace when I can. I see Supply House sells Brasscraft and Bluefin brands for the stem and seat/springs respectively. Or better to use all Delta? Seeing up close how the faucet works was fascinating; I could really appreciate the genius of those who figured this all out. Should definitely be taught in schools as part of science.
    I would like to anchor this old E.L. Mustee & Sons "Utilatub 23"W slop sink. The leg tabs have holes for fastening; what's the best way to do that? (See photos)


  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,981
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    I'm guessing the delta and danco/brasscraft/bluefin parts all come off the same line. That is probably the most common 2 handle faucet in the us so virtually every hardware store has the seats and springs and cartridge.
    D107
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,981
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    You can use tapcons through the holes in the feet to anchor it.

    It is sort of an interesting story about how delta faucet came in to being. Someone invented the ball type single handle faucet but couldn't manufacture to the tolerances they needed to make it work. Masco and Alex Manoogian had a machining company that bought the design. They had the equipment to manufacture to the needed tolerance and started making the faucet.
    D107
  • MikeAmann
    MikeAmann Member Posts: 998
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    D107 said:

    I would like to anchor this old E.L. Mustee & Sons "Utilatub 23"W slop sink. The leg tabs have holes for fastening; what's the best way to fasten them?

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hilti-1-4-in-x-2-1-2-in-Kwik-Bolt-TZ-2-Carbon-Steel-Expansion-Anchors-4-Pack-2312901/316809026



    D107