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Replacing boiler and all components
spd1980
Member Posts: 47
in Oil Heating
Hi,
I’m replacing a boiler from 1997 and figure I should replace all components at the same time since they are also from 1997. This would include pressure reducing valves, aquastat, expansion tank, circulators, flow check valves, switching relays, and anything else I may have missed.
Does this make sense to do, cost aside, or do people typically wait until those components fail and then replace them?
I’m replacing a boiler from 1997 and figure I should replace all components at the same time since they are also from 1997. This would include pressure reducing valves, aquastat, expansion tank, circulators, flow check valves, switching relays, and anything else I may have missed.
Does this make sense to do, cost aside, or do people typically wait until those components fail and then replace them?
Also, I’m currently getting proposals for a boiler replacement and they typically state “includes all necessary pipe, valves, controls, and fittings”.
If it does make sense to replace all components, do I ask the contractor to explicitly list the individual components instead of using the more general inclusions list above? I just want to know exactly what I am getting for the price.
Thanks in advance!
If it does make sense to replace all components, do I ask the contractor to explicitly list the individual components instead of using the more general inclusions list above? I just want to know exactly what I am getting for the price.
Thanks in advance!
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Comments
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I don't do installations anymore but when I did, everything was new. All piping cut back to the ceiling, all new piping and controls. If there was a case of something like an existing radiant manifold, then that could stay.
If a 24 year old circulator dies 2 weeks after the installation, who pays? You do.
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STEVEusaPA said:It depends on what you have, how it’s piped, and how deep your pockets. The main thing for me is piping it with the right valves and piping to facilitate easy component change out and simple bleeding/purging using the standard 'pumping away' technique.What is the best way to state this requirement to the installer so that they install things in this way? Should I just phrase it the same way that you did and they will know what I mean?
Thanks again!0 -
HVACNUT said:I don't do installations anymore but when I did, everything was new. All piping cut back to the ceiling, all new piping and controls. If there was a case of something like an existing radiant manifold, then that could stay.
If a 24 year old circulator dies 2 weeks after the installation, who pays? You do.
So we have a hydro air system and pipes run from the boiler to an air handler next to the boiler. Should I ask the installer to cut the pipes all the way back to the hydronic coil in the air handler?
Also, a proposal I received states “Install boiler with all necessary pipe”. Should I ask them to update the language to state “cut all pipe back to air handler and replace”? The keyword “necessary” leads me to believe they won’t replace all piping unless the pipes are in really bad shape.
Thanks again!0 -
What do you have now (pics)?
How many zones?
Zone Valves/circs/emitters?There was an error rendering this rich post.
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STEVEusaPA said:What do you have now (pics)? How many zones? Zone Valves/circs/emitters?I’ve posted shots of the overall system and closeups of the supply and return sides.
One zone goes to a hydro coil in the air handler on the other side of the cinder block wall.Another zone goes to an indirect hot water tank behind the boiler.Another zone goes to a single baseboard radiator in a room at the opposite end of the house for supplemental heat.
Each zone seems to have a shutoff valve on the supply side (2 of 3 are visible in the pic) and on the return side (3 are visible if you zoom in). Each zone also has a circulator and flow check valves.0 -
Do you reuse the tires and battery when you buy a new car?To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.1
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Why are you replacing anything? That Weil McLain is a good cast iron boiler and should last at least 30 years. It looks like it's in good condition. That boiler is pretty efficient and it's really easy to get clean combustion on it. I think you would be crazy to waste money on replacing a quality boiler with plenty of life left in it.0
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SuperTech said:Why are you replacing anything? That Weil McLain is a good cast iron boiler and should last at least 30 years. It looks like it's in good condition. That boiler is pretty efficient and it's really easy to get clean combustion on it. I think you would be crazy to waste money on replacing a quality boiler with plenty of life left in it.
What type of person or company would you call to get a second opinion on the condition of the boiler? I’m sure there are other service companies I could call but if they also install equipment wouldn’t they be incentivized to recommend that you replace it?0 -
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If the snow tires fit the new one...Robert O'Brien said:Do you reuse the tires and battery when you buy a new car?
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Is there any air elimination besides that built in to the boiler? Did anyone check the expansion tank?
I could see reusing a more complicated zone valve set up depending on the type of valve and quality of the original install. If they are well built and the type where you can replace the guts and the acutator probably not a lot of reason to rebuild the manifold and valves to come up with the same thing.
Since you are zoning with circulators definitely go new, there is both a lot more to wear out in a circualtor and newer ones will be more efficient.0 -
mattmia2 said:Is there any air elimination besides that built in to the boiler? Did anyone check the expansion tank? I could see reusing a more complicated zone valve set up depending on the type of valve and quality of the original install. If they are well built and the type where you can replace the guts and the acutator probably not a lot of reason to rebuild the manifold and valves to come up with the same thing. Since you are zoning with circulators definitely go new, there is both a lot more to wear out in a circualtor and newer ones will be more efficient.
I’m going to call a local service company that was recommended to me and ask them to inspect my boiler to get a second opinion.
Thanks for your input. I will plan to replace the circulators if the other service company agrees that the boiler should be replaced.0 -
So now I’m running into the issue that none of the service companies want to come out unless you are a customer that uses them for oil delivery. The service guy that told me to replace my boiler is from my current oil delivery company so I feel like I’m out of luck there. Also, it seems like the heating install companies that don’t deliver oil don’t service oil boilers, so no luck there either. I’m not even sure what other type of professional to call at this point.0
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I'd definitely get a second opinion about the boiler. Take pictures of the "rot" and post them on here for an honest evaluation. The piping isn't the greatest and the burner itself could use a little updating but I suspect that you had the typical sales tech there interested in nothing but getting a sale. The issue with the hydro air zone becoming airbound shouldn't be hard to fix and would be the same regardless of what boiler is there. Post better pictures of your boiler and it's piping so we can see what's going on with it.0
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Where is this boiler located?0
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SuperTech said:I'd definitely get a second opinion about the boiler. Take pictures of the "rot" and post them on here for an honest evaluation. The piping isn't the greatest and the burner itself could use a little updating but I suspect that you had the typical sales tech there interested in nothing but getting a sale. The issue with the hydro air zone becoming airbound shouldn't be hard to fix and would be the same regardless of what boiler is there. Post better pictures of your boiler and it's piping so we can see what's going on with it.
The picture is of the area that the tech pointed out to me and it’s a top view of the boiler sections.
Note: the two pictures are of the same spot, I just attached both in case one is more clear than the other.1 -
I tried to get as best of a picture as I could. I wasn’t able to remove the top completely because I was unsure of how to remove the flue duct to do so.spd1980 said:SuperTech said:I'd definitely get a second opinion about the boiler. Take pictures of the "rot" and post them on here for an honest evaluation. The piping isn't the greatest and the burner itself could use a little updating but I suspect that you had the typical sales tech there interested in nothing but getting a sale. The issue with the hydro air zone becoming airbound shouldn't be hard to fix and would be the same regardless of what boiler is there. Post better pictures of your boiler and it's piping so we can see what's going on with it.
The picture is of the area that the tech pointed out to me and it’s a top view of the boiler sections.
Note: the two pictures are of the same spot, I just attached both in case one is more clear than the other.
O ring leak, is it cold start?To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.0 -
Robert O'Brien said:
O ring leak, is it cold start?SuperTech said:I'd definitely get a second opinion about the boiler. Take pictures of the "rot" and post them on here for an honest evaluation. The piping isn't the greatest and the burner itself could use a little updating but I suspect that you had the typical sales tech there interested in nothing but getting a sale. The issue with the hydro air zone becoming airbound shouldn't be hard to fix and would be the same regardless of what boiler is there. Post better pictures of your boiler and it's piping so we can see what's going on with it.
The picture is of the area that the tech pointed out to me and it’s a top view of the boiler sections.
Note: the two pictures are of the same spot, I just attached both in case one is more clear than the other.0 -
Pictures of the aquastat and how its dials/pots are set would tell us(well, others, not me, I don't have an encyclopedic knowledge of combination aquastats), but others would know what control it is and if it is set for cold or warm start.0
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Robert O'Brien said:
O ring leak, is it cold start?SuperTech said:I'd definitely get a second opinion about the boiler. Take pictures of the "rot" and post them on here for an honest evaluation. The piping isn't the greatest and the burner itself could use a little updating but I suspect that you had the typical sales tech there interested in nothing but getting a sale. The issue with the hydro air zone becoming airbound shouldn't be hard to fix and would be the same regardless of what boiler is there. Post better pictures of your boiler and it's piping so we can see what's going on with it.
The picture is of the area that the tech pointed out to me and it’s a top view of the boiler sections.
Note: the two pictures are of the same spot, I just attached both in case one is more clear than the other.
Would cold start lead to flue gas condensation and ultimately corrosion?
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