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New taco unit flashes green upon power up but then no power

My unit blew and installed new taco unit.  Connected wires according.  9 wires
R&W Zone 1
R&W ZONE 2
120V H&N 120V INPUT
H zone 1 circ
H zone 2 circ
Last one was connected to ZC/P.  I connected it to ZC and light flashes green when turn power on but then no power or light.  There was a jumper between ZC/ZR which I tried with it on and off and no difference.
Is there something else I am missing between an older model relay and this new one?

Comments

  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 5,689
    Did you figure out why the first one 'blew' before sticking another one on?
    What 'Taco Unit' (model #) are you talking about?
    steve
  • Scott1ct
    Scott1ct Member Posts: 6
    First one blew due to lightning.  Lost 2 garage door openers and my a/c unit capacitor as well.  It flashes green and gets power but then no light showing power stays on
  • Scott1ct
    Scott1ct Member Posts: 6
    edited September 2021
    Was using unwired image and replaced with wired image

    Oil repair company noticed it as I haven't used heat yet since the strike and was told to simply replace the unit and was quoted as such.  Any help is appreciated. Thank you
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 5,689
    edited September 2021
    You have low voltage wires on zones 1 & 2 but wires to what I presume are the circulators on 1 & 3. And where are the other neutrals for the circulators?
    And what type of aquastat, and how is that wired?
    Depending on what else you have (indirect), you could probably ditch ZC and run low voltage wires from your end switch (X-X) on the relay to the T-T on the aquastat. Then any zone calling will fire the burner.

    2 other thoughts:
    -Why didn't the oil company just replace it
    -More importantly, you should have someone check you other safety/operating controls, specifically the high limit, and LWCO, if installed to make sure lightening didn't damage them, and prevent proper, safe boiler operation.
    steve
  • Scott1ct
    Scott1ct Member Posts: 6
    edited September 2021
    Oil company didn't have it on truck but quoted me $ to just replace that relay ($ for this unit plus $ for labor when the relay itself cost $).
    I replaced wire for wire from the old to new box code for code.  
    Connections go to H & N on the far right bottom of new relay.  There were no X-X on old relay. And the H goes to circulators 1&2.  There were no other wires on old relay.  Here was the setup before disconnecting the old box
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 2,896
    Where are the Neutrals for the pumps?
  • Scott1ct
    Scott1ct Member Posts: 6
    There were none on the old system that was installed in 2005.  We bought home two years ago are but everything worked perfectly until it was fried by a surge.
      I connected all existing wires that were connected to old taco relay to the corresponding screws on the new one.  Gets power but what else is different?
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 2,896
    It might be best to let the Oil Company rewire that panel Properly.
    Rich_49
  • Scott1ct
    Scott1ct Member Posts: 6
    The previous owner was a diy person.  Not sure if units operate differently.  The power light came on when the aquastat was quiet then light went out when it cycled then came back on when water heater finished heating 
  • rick in Alaska
    rick in Alaska Member Posts: 1,362
    I don't see any problem with your wiring. The neutrals are all common on the pump outputs, so I would assume the pump neutrals are tied together some where else, with just a pigtail from the control board tying them together. Should be no problem there.
    Most likely from what you just posted, the control only gets power when the aquasat sends it?? It shouldn't be that way, but depending how it is originally wired, it could very well be. You can verify by just checking the incoming voltage. That control should have full time power.
    Rick
    Solid_Fuel_Man
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 4,594
    Something got crossed along the way. Or maybe it was always that way and you never noticed. 
    H on the SR503 should be powered constant 120v.
    ZC on the SR503 should go to terminal 63 on the Logamatic. 
    I think you have terminal 63 to H, which when there is a priority domestic demand through the Logamatic, terminal 63 loses power until the demand is satisfied. 
    It would've been nice to know there was a Logamatic involved in this little query to begin with. 
    STEVEusaPA
  • SteveSan
    SteveSan Member Posts: 117
    Scott, please give us a call at Taco 401-942-8000 and ask for tech Support when you are in front of the SR control. We are here Mon-Fri 8am-5pm EST.
    Rich_49
  • Joe Mattiello
    Joe Mattiello Member Posts: 630
    Hi Scott
    ZC/ZR are 120v ZR is 120 out on demand, and ZC is 120 in. That should explain the jumper. If you remove the jumper it de-energizes the control. Some would remove the jumper and power ZR when DHW is satisfied, using it as a priority. 
    Hopefully this was helpful.
    those Tech support people are available at 401-942-8000 for more information. Thanks for using Taco products 
    Joe Mattiello
    N. E. Regional Manger, Commercial Products
    Taco Comfort Solutions