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Super store off steam boiler
Bill Julian
Member Posts: 162
What are the parameters for installing a super Store 35 off a SGO-3. The tankless is history.
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Comments
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Finding the right tapings to connect to, The return from the superstore should go into the condensate return and not directly into the boiler. The supply should come off just below the normal boiler water line around the height of the lower gauge glass taping. Using the right size pipe (usually 1", not 3/4").
Using a bronze pump is essential.
I am sure their is a piping diagram with the superstore0 -
Cool thanks0
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Looking at this SSU manual that may have been sitting on my coffee table for 3 years, it does show a steam boiler condensate application although it is missing the note about it needing to be nonferrous.0
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Ill say this. You can pipe an indirect water heater off a steam boiler. I have done it a couple of times. However I dont think I would do it again. Too many water quality issues where the coil can mud up. The boiler has to heat up daily to make hot water and steam boilers are not the most efficient.
Unless electric rates are nuts I would suggest a good electric tank or a heat pump water heater.0 -
I hear the comments but electric is not an option and she has no NG. Another question. The relay wiring.
120 to relay, cir cc, control from SS to TT, and the question is XX?? How does the boiler call when the SS calls? On the SGO-3 where is the wiring connection related to the call from the SS when heat is not calling?0 -
TT from the relay to the burner TT0
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Ok, What of XX?0
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The control on the Superstore has to do 2 things, start the burner and the circulator0
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Ideally it wouldn't start the circulator until the boiler is hotter than the tank so the tank isn't heating the boiler.0
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Bill Julian said:Ok, What of XX?
That's usually on a zone panel with 2 or more zones.
For a single zone relay you can use something like the diagram below. Just wire your existing steam thermostat wires in parallel with 5 and 6 on the relay.
Whatever you do, make sure you don't bypass the line volt safety circuit to the burner.
What aquastat was being used for the tankless? That will still be limit for the indirect so you dont start making steam. 160° limit with a 10° diff should be fine IMO.
And when piping, if SS doesn't spec it, a wye strainer or two and isolation valves for it and the circulator will make it easier if there's trouble down the road.0 -
Hi @Bill Julian ,You say electric is not an option. The major water heater manufacturers are all working on 120 VAC heat pump water heaters, and have prototypes. They will clearly be on the market soon. Any chance your client can wait a bit for this technology? It will probably cost her less in the long run.
Yours, Larry1 -
HVACNUT My Bad the relay is a 501 single Taco like the one above. Didn't get a visual on the Aqua Stat. Your words sound right0
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If you have an X-X terminal on your relay, that goes to your T-T on the boiler. The dry XX closes on any activation of the relay.Contact John "JohnNY" Cataneo, NYC Master Plumber, Lic 1784
Consulting & Troubleshooting
Heating in NYC or NJ.
Classes0 -
Honeywell has a switching relay it's a two pole relay 3 &4 switch the 120 volt and X & X switch 24 volt. They used to be used on millivolt systems. Forgot the # maybe that is what the op has.0
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If you have an existing tankless coil you could use that as a hx and set up the ssu as a closed system and not need the nonferrous components0
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In what way? wiring wise0
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mattmia2 said:If you have an existing tankless coil you could use that as a hx and set up the ssu as a closed system and not need the nonferrous components1
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A minor comment for the unwary... if the pressure regulator is present (see the drawing), the expansion tank is not optional. You have to have it.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
No Im dumping the tankess altogether0
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