Intermittent lock out when cold on Peerless WBV with Beckett burner

Fishwater2002

We recently purchased a house with a Peerless boiler & Beckett burner. For the first few months we had no issues with the system then it started to lock out overnight leaving us with no heat & hot water until we hit the reset. Once the temps warmed up outside it started happening less & less, now it happens maybe twice a week vs every day in the winter so I am thinking that it is related to how cold it is outside & demand.

Once we started having issues I found paperwork from various service techs while the previous owners owned the house & they had the same issues of no hot water so it's been a problem since at least 8/20. The previous service techs (according to the receipts) replaced the filter(multiple times), oil pump, pump coupling, cleaned electrodes (multiple times), replaced the controller & serviced the unit every year since 2017. I had a company come in, they replaced the eye & did another service with new spin on filter. The unit had a hard lock out 2 days later.

So now I am at a loss, I never called the last service company back because the tech was a little rude on the phone when I spoke with him at the service ( I was traveling & had him call me directly to explain the issues) It seems like he was more concerned with how much I was willing to pay so after paying $400 for that service I didn't call them back. I'm not sure where to go from here but it's getting colder & the issue isn't going to fix itself.

Robert O'Brien

You need someone who knows what they're doing. Does it have a modern primary control? Genisys, Carlin 70200 or Honeywell R7284?

Fishwater2002

Yes, it has a Honeywell R7284 controller, I guess that was done on 9/2020

Ctoilman

Change the ignitor.  Easy fix.

Fishwater2002

Looks like I have a transformer on my burner. When I look up an ignitor for my AFG it doesn't look like what I have but when I look up a transformer it's exactly what I have. Should I get a new transformer or ignitor? I'm a former auto tech & don't believe in throwing parts at things just because but for the $60 price I'm willing to give it a try.

One thing I just noticed, when I flipped up the transformer to look underneath I saw that it was a little loose in the hinge so I tightened the screws. I'm not sure if this is causing the transformer to move slightly possibly causing my intermittent issue?

STEVEusaPA

Like @Robert O'Brien said, you need to find a competent, experienced tech. Someone who knows how to properly check every component and do the proper repair.
Could be as simple as a loose wire, or a vacuum leak.

Fishwater2002

STEVEusaPA said:

Like @Robert O'Brien said, you need to find a competent, experienced tech. Someone who knows how to properly check every component and do the proper repair.
Could be as simple as a loose wire, or a vacuum leak.

That's the challenge, two places that were recommended by friends haven't called back, one was the repair tech who charged for the last repair that didn't work & the other doesn't do oil. In my field it's incredibly hard to find competent techs, in the trades it's incredibly hard to find people even willing to look at it, they have way too much work in todays economy & it doesn't make sense for them to spend time working on this when they can make easier money elsewhere. Find me a good competent tech & I'll gladly pay them whatever they want to fix it.......

Fishwater2002

PS- If anyone knows of a competent tech in the Seacoast of NH please let me know.

Jamie Hall

Try Joyce Cooling and Heating over in Nashua, 603-889-1991. They may get as far as the seacoast region. Or you could try Bob Gagnon in Lowell, MA, 978-453-2211, though I'm not sure that has New Hampshire licenses. Be sure and tell them that the Wall sent you there...

EBEBRATT-Ed

@Fishwater2002

Oil tank inside or outside?? Do you see any soot around the boiler or on top of it??

BDR529

Sounds like cheap fuel heavy in bio now it is stratified and/or grew fungus.

Jon_blaney

It is the igniter. When it is cold out, you have more boilers cycles and the igniter gets hot and fails. When the tech comes, the igniter is cold and works fine when tested.

Fishwater2002

Great suggestions all! The tank is inside, it is older & was inspected by my heating oil provider, looks rusty on the outside but they inspected it & said that it was good to go. We are on auto delivery with Eastern Propane & Oil so the quality should be good/great but who knows. The previous owners used a different supplier & judging from the repair invoices probably had the same issues.

I do feel that the transformer is suspect, looks to be the only item that has not been replaced in recent history, looks to almost be original? Seems like the only test anyone has probably performed is the screwdriver test so maybe it is failing or is weaker when it cycles more frequently?

Do I replace it with another transformer or with the a new ignitor? The only replacement transformers that I can find are aftermarket while the new ignitors I find are Beckett. It currently has a Franceformer 5LAY-04, do I just get another one of those or do I get something different?

EBEBRATT-Ed

I prefer transformers over ignitors but get what you can. Better to troubleshoot than to shoot the parts cannon at it though

HVACNUT

R7284...A, B, P?
If A, then its probably intermittent (constant) ignition and I would opt for the transformer. If B or P then interrupted ignition and the igniter would be fine. 
Either one your grasping at straws anyway. I'm sure a complete tune up and combustion test by a qualified tech wouldn't hurt.

rick in Alaska

Sounds like you have an iron core transformer. Those usually just get weaker and weaker, but usually stay consistent on the way down. As long as the spark is at least 1/2 inch long, I don't hardly ever have the issue you are seeing. My guess, and it is a guess with the info we have, is that you have a solenoid coil on the fuel pump that is heating up and shutting down, and then re-makes when it cools down. I have seen that a lot. Best guess is for you to change the fuel pump solenoid. ( If it has one).

Rick

Fishwater2002

I don't want to jinx myself but I replaced the ignitor on Saturday & it's been flawless ever since. I also found that the previous techs connected three grounds together with a wire nut, one of them being for transformer so I wired the new ignitor directly to the ground leg on the Honeywell controller, that might have also had something to do with the problem. Time will tell.

STEVEusaPA

I hope your are confusing ground with neutrals. If the ignitor is wired directly to the ground, that's very wrong. If it's wired directly to the Neutral, where are all the other neutrals.

Fishwater2002

Sorry, yes neutrals. When I took it apart to replace the ignitor someone working on it in the past had three neutrals twisted together in a wire nut with a single lead coming off of them into the controller. Since the new ignitor had spades that matched the controller I just went directly to the controller. I left the other two neutrals connected to it's original leg on the controller after I redid the twisted wire connection.